1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

I have ECU pinouts for year of Tacoma and forerunner if that helps

 

Toyota OEM wiring manual reprints can be had on Ebay for less than $50
Used original here https://www.ebay.com/itm/2848845218...bsdVrZoTxK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Naw think I've got that stuff. Just talking Haltech pins to those pins, and any passive components that need to go in series/parallel

 

There are no passive components necessary with the haltech

 

Haltech website has all the docs

https://www.haltech.com/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=ht_get_file&id=5d227cca506c252d57727047&op=1

 

X2 and you have phone support from haltech and Gabe at anytime if you have any issues unlike everything else out there and either or can remote in at anytime into the haltech for an adjustment

 

One day I’ll go standalone
Until then

 

FYI, the reason the MS kit states '95-97 model years for the 5VZ-FE is that they changed the ECU connectors. So there is no plug and play after all for most of us.

From their tech support:

 

Must be a Denso 122 pin connector

 

Be aware the Haltech Elite 750 and 950 do not have knock control

 

Did you tune yourself? Or Gabe?

 

An interesting question. I am curious why you are asking.

 

Because I have a 5VZFE automatic as well (however I have some different things 2” pulley , 750 ECU , and such)
I am having mine tuned by Gabe

Had questions about your tune

 

So your rpm cutoff is set to 5000rpms?
Because the crankshaft sensor is not letting it go higher?
Your getting a check engine light when it cuts out?
Did you gap your plugs at .026?

im trying to figure out why mine cuts out at 5100rpms after haltech auto update from 5700rpms before

 

Ah, got it. Other than the startup map, Gabe has not touched mine. My friend Zane has been helping me with mine. It's been a fun experience.

I knew you were a supercharged auto but for some reason I thought you were running a URD 7th.

What questions do you have?

 

Yes, we are working to figure out similar symptoms. Are you getting Haltech p1300 or p1301 codes?

It may still be a sensor issue but there is some documentation that indicates it could be settings in the base map. Hopefully we can try changing some of those settings to see if it makes a difference.

You changed your crank position sensor didn't you? Is the new one OEM from Toyota. I went with a Denso one. The jury is still out as to whether that was the correct move. My new sensor improved the situation but did not correct it totally.

Yes, engine cutoff is set to 5500 IIRC. It appears as though it is the sensor that is the limiting factor. It does not always throw a code, but will occasionally.

We did not change the gap on the ruthenium plugs. Did you regap yours?

Which version of the Haltech ESP are you running? Mine is at 2.53.3

 

You might try lowering the trigger arming voltage in the rpm range where you have the issue. Make small changes and see it it has any effect

 

Interestingly, this is exactly what we will be playing with later today. Zane found some documentation when researching this that indicated the voltage setting in the base map might be too high.

 

https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/trigger-arming-voltage

I had to lower the voltage to get my engine to start initially. Changing the crank sensor will most likely change these settings. The proper way to set this up would be with an oscilloscope.

 

We have tried numerous voltage changes on the trigger and had no luck in this area. 5100-5200 it cuts out with the NEW OEM crankshaft sensor. I can live with it but want to get it moved back up to 5700rpms where it was before the haltech update.
I’m going to install new plugs and gap them at .026, them come pregapped at .035 I believe and dielectric grease the coils connectors and plugs today