1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Scale boost up more as RPM rises beyond peak torque, torque peak is around 4000 where it should be on a 5vz, and that's with me pulling timing there. You could perhaps ramp a lot more timing in after peak if you're feeling froggy. HP and TQ always cross at 5250rpm though, that's where the functions exchange. So you have to keep making power up top. I'm not willing to dial that much timing in up top and I don't feel like creating an overly anal boost map for it (think it would be bad in certain gears as well). At a certain level it's going to lay over without you forcing it more because of restrictions, usually port sizing or cam profile. It's more than enough for a wheeling truck and my graphs are smooth. I have no plans to dial more out of it anymore. Let's see your Dyno sheet

 

I've always wondered how much a shorter intake runner would shift right. Probably not as much as cams but who even sells them. My dyno graph probably looks similar I'd guess... Just took her out of the garage for the first time in a couple months. Gonna go to lake pleasant for fireworks next week

 

I think you can get cams from Kelford still, and my guess is Schneider would make some if you asked.

 

Nice numbers! are you running stock head bolts? I’ve developed a very very very small wet spot on the back of the outside of my passenger head IF I go over 8 pounds. If I don’t go over 8 pounds it doesn’t leak, kinda strange so I’m going for new heads and ARP (yota1) just because this motor has 420k on it. New project later this summer

 

Thanks! Still running the stock head bolts, but I keep cylinder pressure down in the regions where I'd be concerned about it with lower timing. This winter I plan to take both heads off as preventative maintenance and have a valve job done, and then I'll reinstall with ARP bolts and MLS head gaskets since I have the old composite style gaskets currently.

What part of the head is weeping on yours, near the intake manifold, near where the head meets the block, or up by the valve covers?

 

Ok good,idea especially because the early 3.4 have composite. My replacement motor was a 2004 with stock MLS but will be replacing all that.
It’s weeping where the block and head meet on the very back corner. You can’t see this section unless you’re under the truck looking up at it.
More boost brings on head gasket issues depending on the miles and condition of the engine, so ARP is my next step with my given miles

 

Here is a great detailed You-Tube link to learn what’s involved in rebuilding a head and testing it when u cross that road

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFPHrASrCUM

 

Thanks, I've done quite a few before though. 5VZ ones look pretty easy. We actually have a local head shop in Spokane that I really like to use, so I'll probably go that route when I do it just to avoid downtime. He can have my heads ready for me to put back on in two days if he doesn't find cracks or something drastic. He's welded a couple cracked heads for me in the past two and even fixed a warped one for me.

 

My new stickers arrived

 

A lot of folks claim that adding decals to their truck adds horsepower... This one truly does.

 

Where do yall store/mount the WB1 unit? Getting nervous leaving it in the passenger's foot orbital

 

I bolted mine up behind that kick panel about 4-5" off the floor.

 

Ah, ok, I saw a nice premade hole I thought I might be able to rivet but it didn't seem like the kick plate would fit over it. I'll try it out

 

@treyus30

 

Dang, that's nice. He solved the bridging issue by just stuffing all the hardware in each display pod and running the 4pin CAN/Power wires between them. Less efficient, but more elegant.
My biggest puzzle has been integrating everything onto a single modular board using the common components I've listed, and doing an infinitely expandable breakout - not familiar with the boards he's using are but they're certainly more compact. And where's the actual hardware IC CAN transceiver? Can't see one
I'd love to do a configurator app for mine though

 

Any of you guys running more street style tires? If so what and what size? My 360lbs of unsprung mass is getting to me

 

I had a set of Ironman AT tires on a 1991 F-150 that felt really nice and they didn't hurt the bank. I think it was under $600 out the door

 

Well I'm not necessarily looking for cheap, I'm looking for lightweight and a good wheel:tire ratio for a sportier feel and better fuel economy. Wheels have to be at least 17" due to the tundra brakes, negative offset, and tires should be in the 30-33" range to not look weird.. It's just that these tire websites make it so hard to search for a size range for comparison.

I'd probably be willing to keep my current set of R/Ts in the garage and run the lighter setup most of the time, then swap when I'm thinking of going somewhere offroad.

Preliminarily was checking out the Toyo Proxes ST III

 

I've never had a bad Toyo street tire

 

Looking like I'm a little early to the searching game (or perfectly late?). They literally just released a new product line, the Proxes Sport A/S+, that looks like it will fill many buckets. Nobody even has them in stock yet and more sizes coming in the next 6 months... right now they cap at 28.7" on a 20" rim.