1st Gen How-To: Change your belts (P/S, A/C, Alternator) 2.4/2.7L

Are the open ended wrenches needed? Seems like you could stick a ratchet where the wrenches are suppose to go. Thoughts?

 

I used ratchets

 

how come this isn't stickied? Just paid Goodyear shop to do my 3 belts $203

 

It is a sticky

 

How long does this job take?

 

I have a 1995 Tacoma 3.4L V6 and I am having a really hard time putting my replacement alternator belt back on. I can get it on all of the necessary pulleys. Do you stretch it out? If so how?

 

great write up and pics... thanks

Is there a sequence regarding the locking nuts and tension adjustment bolts? do you back off the locking nut and then ease off the tension on the adjusting bolt to remove the belt?

 

I couldn't do it with the 34" alt belt wasn't going to happen had 34 1/2" to make it happen

 

How much of a belt deflection should there be for proper drive belt tension?.... 1/16"... 1/8".... 3/16"... and where to test each one. This information would be helpful as too much tension can damage components. I can't seem to find this information in any manual.

UPDATE: I located information that states the "Rule of Thumb" for belt tension is 1/4" deflection for pulley spans between 7 to 11 inches, (on center), and a deflection of 1/2" for those with 14 to 16 inches. This is measured by placing a straight edge from pulley to pulley and pressing a small ruler in on the belt to measure the deflection. This might be helpful for some out there... Cheers.

 

Many thanks to the OP. This saved my bacon.

 

This post should be a model for all DIY static posts. Well done sir!

 

Anybody know what grade the tensioner bolts are? I snapped the one on the power steering bolt last night and need a new one. I couldn't see any of the usual markings on it when I pulled it off.

Also, little tip for everyone in the future. For the A/C idler and P/S idler, back the bolt inside the pulley off about 1/4 turn before loosening the tensioner bolt. I couldn't get them to budge until I did that. Also on the alternator, I pulled the whole tensioner assembly off and let the bottom bolt on the alternator loose a little bit. This let it rotate up towards the engine and was a snap to get the belt off and new one on. Everything still lines up enough once it's rotated all the way up that there's no issue getting the tensioner assembly mounted again.

 

^Just kidding I'm an idiot and didn't read the first post very well. I pretty much just restated everything he covered, oops

 

Ok bumping this one more time for posterity... I couldn't find the damn bolt anywhere so I had to go a week without power steering until I got to Kansas City and a Toyota dealership. They didn't have a part number listed for the power steering tensioner bolt but did for the A/C one. They're the same and are interchangeable, in case anyone else does what I did and breaks their bolts due to being insanely ripped

 

Adding some torque values to hopefully save someone else from having to dig through the FSM's for them. I found this info in the 1996 and 2000 FSM's.

A/C pulley lock nut: 29 ft. lb. ('96 and '00 FSM's agree)
Alt. Pivot: 38-43 ft. lb. ('96 FSM says 43, '00 FSM says 38)
Alt. Lock nut: 21-25 ft. lb. ('96 FSM says 21, '00 says 25)
P/S pulley lock nut: 29 ft. lb. ('96 and '00 FSM's agree)

I think as long as you're anywhere within the ranges for the alternator bolts you'll be fine, they aren't that far apart. I'll probably shoot for the middle myself that way at worst I'm only two pounds off.

 

Another update...it looks like the Toyota part number for the Alternator belt has been updated from what was originally shown.
The new number is: 90916-02336

 

Appreciate all the work you put into this. It gave me the confidence to try and replace my drive belts myself and save about $140 in the process. It was a nice accomplishment for a novice like myself. Thanks!

 

Thanks a ton for this, was able to get mine changed in about 1 hour last night, fixed the belt squeal I was getting on startup!

 

Hi y'all... I just changed my belts and ran into a "this can only happen to me" thing. I have a confirmed '02 Taco 2.4L. As I was starting to install the PS belt in seemed kind of long. I stopped and did some research and the part # (Dayco's PN 5040437) for the belt was correct with Autozone, Dayco and the ebay store I bought all 3 belts from. I noticed a 4PK1080 (Dayco's PN 5040425) on the original Toyota belt. I checked around and found this was for '95-'01 & 04 Taco 2.4. The new belt was 4PK1110. I did a VIN check on the Dayco site and it said '02 Tacoma and the 4PK1110. I bought the new belt online for a really great price and had to go to Autozone to get the 4PK1080 belt. So I recommend you check the xPKxxxx # before you get your belts. I have either an '02 that was built in the end of the '01 production as an '02 or an early '02 that has left over '01 parts??? Oh well shxx happens. This wasn't the parts place's fault or mine, they are going to refund my $. I now know what the xPKxxxx is now tho'! (It's a metric part #) Just glad this was the last and easiest belt to change!!! The others were correct.

 

What is the service interval on the belts? I'm at 70k on the original belts and they look fine. That doesn't mean a lot with rubber though.