1st Gen Long Travel Discussions

Don’t mean to jump in mid subject, but have been wondering what you long travel guys run as far as steering racks? Do you guys go custom routes or just blow through them? Steering is pretty shit in my truck and I’m not even lt and can’t imagine it getting any better going lt..

 

For those interested, and who remember, Front Range Off Road is considering making the 8" front diff for these trucks possibly, however it would be apart of their LT kit. I know a lot of us don't want to buy all new long travel kits for these trucks, so let's see if we can talk them into just making the diff for us. If you're interested in it, go comment on the discussion thread.

 

So I’ve been absent for for quite a while and the old google-fu is failing me. A member once gave me the link to a rear shock relocation kit that basically was a couple plates and a tube that you welded below the bed but above the frame for rear upper shock mount relocation. Anyone know of any kits like that? Need to get my rear setup for an upcoming trip.

Further info that may not be necessary: this kit is appealing to me because there’s no bed modification required and it keeps the rear shocks inboard so no wheel spacers or axle replacement is required

apologies if this has already been covered or if this is the wrong place, I’ve been working a lot of OT and my spare time to do research has been limited at best

 

Idk if this helps but MCM Fab did exactly what you explained on my truck. They may sell the kit just not sure. They’re located out here in Las Vegas

 

Here you go . I believe if you angle them back more you can get 12" trave shock in there.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-lift-idea-for-my-98.779760/#post-27881780

 

checked their site. Didn’t see a kit but I really appreciate the response and input

This’ll do. I remember someone sent me a link for a kit that was basically all the supplies for this but I wonder if it’s discontinued. Either way, this is perfect. Thank you

 

I remember seeing a kit somewhere too but if can weld it's not hard to replicate. I can't weld so I had someone else do it for me an had the rear frame boxed at the same time.

 

Did anyone ever find anyone who will (or does) make this rack guide?

 

@ttmotorsports

https://www.tt-motorsports.com/prod...a-tacoma-96-02-4runner-rack-and-pinion-slider

 

LMAO... ya, I'll be copying that shit myself.

 

So is it common not to use fender washer on the lower control arm when using a polyurethane bushing?
Figured I'd get a better response here. I'm installing some solo lower control arms .

Also is anyone using a uniball ball jt? How has your experience been?

Thanks for your help.

 

No washer needed - they’re designed to fit with the bushings against the LCA mounts - you need to have the inner sleeve pinched in between the mounts instead of the bushing so it can pivot in the arm unlike oem rubber bushings that twist in the arm.

I’ve seen many guys beat their rigs with oem lbj’s and I also like the uniball conversions. That said, they cost the same as 2-3 pairs of oem lbj’s and that would get you 200-300k miles for the same price and you’ll still have to change out the uniballs several times before even 200k. $1k could be used towards a locker or tires along with a new set of LBJ’s imo.

 

Thanks for the help!! I wasn't really finding a lot out there about them . I did read though solos and TC's long travel instructions and they didn't make any mention of it either.
its weird that the washers are used on the uppers but not the lowers.But it looks like all the manufacturers run them that way.

I just pulled the trigger on the uniballs. I've been going through lower ball jt ever 20k if that and that's with the oem ones.

 

Wow, what's failing?

Replace the bolt in the uniball each time you replace the uniballs if it's happening that much, the impact has to go somewhere - depending on the size you could buy a pack from McMaster Carr.

If you weld in the double shear kit for the UCA bolt, they basically replace that big washer and you wouldn't need one. It's just a different design since there's nothing to hold the outsides of the bushings in place since it's only a sleeve in the coilover bucket and a flanged nut / bolt on the outsides. The LCA has the whole surface of the mounts to put pressure on the outer surfaces of the bushings which essentially act like big washers.

 

Thanks for the heads up.
The ball part of the ball jt is what's failing. They just develop a ton of play. I'm not sure why ,I don't think I'm any harder on them than anyone else, maybe I've just gotten a couple of bad batches. Not meeting else has worn-out except for my stering rack and my shocks. Lol
I'm replacing all the bushings and joints in the front.
Thanks for your help and insight.

 

Looking for a pair, anyone!!

 

Like I said... I'll be copying that shit.

 

Hey i have a quick question, when you are mounting the spring perches how do you know where to tack it so that your pinion angle is good?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/driveshaft-angles.465292/

That's a great question - I didn't do much w/ the actual angle on my truck (my buddy had enough time on his hands to CTRL C+V the geometry for the rear from his truck while I was super busy at work at the time). To get what angle range to shoot for, I'd reach out to Kelly (@dezcoma on Instagram) - he has a job at DMZ and is building a 1st gen as we speak. You can at least measure it off of the mating surface for the diff on the housing and use simple math to figure out what it is for the drive shaft, or maybe use the method in the linked thread make measurements once you know what to shoot for.

 

Gotcha gotcha, I appreciate that!