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1st gen new clutch slipping

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Blackdawg, Apr 10, 2024.

  1. Apr 10, 2024 at 4:31 PM
    #1
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Okay backstory:

    I have a 1996 single cab SX v6 manual truck with over 300k on it. Drive fine when I picked it up but when I drove home on long steeper hills clutch would slip in 5th and 4th. Basically couldn't maintain speed all the way to the top, even though it should.

    I drove it like that for 3 years babying the clutch and finally decided to get a new one.

    I installed an Aisan stock clutch kit and LUK fly wheel and rebuilt the master cylinder and slave.

    And it still slipped just like before. Plus the clutch I pulled was an Exedy stage 1 I think and honestly didn't look bad at all. I think I could put it in another truck and it would be fine for years.

    So then I bought an LCE clutch performance kit with a stronger pressure plate and then put the OEM fly wheel on after getting it resurfaced.

    Still slips.

    I've bled the system a lot to make sure it is good.


    I'm tired of lipping around in this small what should be fun and a bit quick truck.

    Someone tell me what stupid thing I'm overlooking.

    Only other thing I'm fixing to do is flat out replace all the hydraulics.
     
  2. Apr 10, 2024 at 4:36 PM
    #2
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    Yeah you're kind of making me wonder if the hydraulics don't fully release. Most other broken stuff causes the clutch to not disengage rather than slip.
     
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  3. Apr 10, 2024 at 6:43 PM
    #3
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yeah which to be fair, not like they are new. Almost 30 years old at this point.

    I'd still be a bit peeved if that was the case since I did rebuild them. But could be something so bad a rebuild ain't gonna fix it?
     
  4. Apr 10, 2024 at 6:53 PM
    #4
    TnShooter

    TnShooter The TacomaWorld Stray

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    That’s my thought as well.
    I haven’t been under a 1st Gen in years.

    Can one take a look at the clutch fork and “see” if it’s releasing fully?
    Maybe crack the bleeder on the slave and see if the fork moves?
     
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  5. Apr 10, 2024 at 7:07 PM
    #5
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Can check for sure.
     
  6. Apr 10, 2024 at 7:41 PM
    #6
    Rucas

    Rucas 1st gen

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    Sounds like something isn't going as far as it should. If you replaced with a heavier pressure plate and are still getting slippage seems like the fork isn't moving far enough.
    If you check the master and slave and those look like they are in proper working condition, I wonder if there could be any chance the fork got bent somehow the wrong way causing it not to return to the right position.
     
  7. Apr 10, 2024 at 9:30 PM
    #7
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yeah that could make sense. I seem to remember checking before and the fork was not under pressure. Will double check that.

    But yeah, something is not happy but it's not clear what it is. Not sure you can bend the fork though?
     
  8. Apr 11, 2024 at 5:07 AM
    #8
    Rucas

    Rucas 1st gen

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    Yeah not likely, but somewhere to also look. It sounds like you did the other clutches yourself so you probably were careful, but say if a shop did it (or pulled the trans at one point) and the trans rolled or flopped onto the side and tweaked the geometry just slightly it could do something.
    Have you verified that the master and slave are OEM?
     
  9. Apr 11, 2024 at 8:34 AM
    #9
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    I am pretty sure they are OEM. Slave is for sure. Master not 100% certain. Will poke around today and see. Suppose that could be a factor though. The rebuild kits were OEM.
     
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  10. Apr 11, 2024 at 6:14 PM
    #10
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Looks like everything is OEM.

    The slave is keeping pressure on the fork which it's supposed to do and there is no play in the fork when it's all the way out.

    However!

    My valve cover gaskets are leaking. Been on my to do list a while. The bottom of the bell housing does have oil on it. I don't see how oil could get in there but maybe it's possible?

    Wouldn't explain it over long term or when I changed clutches though.
     
  11. Apr 11, 2024 at 8:56 PM
    #11
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    99.9% would have seen oil on your old clutch if that was the case. How did the pivot ball look on your housing?
     
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  12. Apr 11, 2024 at 9:04 PM
    #12
    joba27n

    joba27n YotaWerx Authorized tuner

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    Check your clutch pedal freeplay, if it's not adjusted right it will keep pressure on the hydraulics. Around 1/4"-3/8" play is typical. Make sure you see the play on the pushrod and not just the pedal itself. Most likely will need a 12mm and 14mm wrench.
     
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  13. Apr 11, 2024 at 9:07 PM
    #13
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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  14. Apr 11, 2024 at 10:48 PM
    #14
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Hell idk. Been a year or more since i swapped in the new clutch. Nothing looked bad though. Cleaned it all up good.

    I've read about this and have messed with it. To no avail. Not sure if I just am doing it wrong but there is some pedal play before the rod moves.
     
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  15. Apr 12, 2024 at 6:01 AM
    #15
    Bandido

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    there should be no free play, but you should be able to give a heavy handed wiggle. I suggest (trying) to forcing your slave to return all the way, it can absolutely lip and prevent full return if it spent 20+ years on a thin plate before going to a new thicker plate. You should be able to fully compress that boi by hand easily enough.

    Your hydraulic replacement plan is the right next step tho.
     
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  16. Apr 12, 2024 at 7:19 AM
    #16
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    It’s not impossible for the clutch fork to bend as they’re pretty thin material and I’ve seen at least one guy saying it broke (not bent though) on him.
     
  17. Apr 12, 2024 at 7:20 AM
    #17
    Speedytech7

    Speedytech7 Toyota Cult Ombudsman

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    Wouldn't that typically cause the clutch not to fully disengage though, rather than stick partially engaged? Although yes, you can absolutely bend these forks
     
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  18. Apr 12, 2024 at 7:28 AM
    #18
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Yeah it would most likely bend towards the trans.
     
  19. Apr 12, 2024 at 7:30 AM
    #19
    joba27n

    joba27n YotaWerx Authorized tuner

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    Did you handle the friction disk with bare hands and/or over lube the input shaft
     
  20. Apr 12, 2024 at 11:44 AM
    #20
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    I mean it's very very little play. It was a lot before and then I adjusted it. It's pretty tight now to engaging the rod soon as you push it.

    I can easily push it with my hand to the floor.

    Or you mean pushing the slave all the way in and letting it come out?

    gloves. And no signs of grease on the 2 i removed before the 3rd clutch disk.
     

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