1st Gen Oil Change Guidance - Spill-Free Oil Filter Removal (5VZ-FE)

Howdy TW, could use a little wisdom on the drip free solution to removing the oil filter from the side of the 5VZ-FE (V6).

I've tried removing from the top (through the engine compartment), from the bottom (removing the skid plate) and from the side (through the driver's side wheel well). Also tried the cut Pepsi bottle method that has been mentioned in a couple threads.

The wheel well method results in the least amount of spill BUT still more than zero. Over time the oil spills onto the bushing for the LCA and spoils the bushing (I'm convinced people replace the driver's side LCA bushing more than the passenger side for this reason).

Any thoughts on the way to remove the oil filter that results in no (or little) oil spill?



The Pig form-a-funnel does help some because it somewhat seals against the block. But it's imperfect because the frame is in the way and forces the angle of the funnel to slope down toward the block, resulting in a little pool that trickles down the side of the block and then all over the place.

Also unhelpful is the angle of the oil filter into the block--it is slanted down (presumably to help with draining the filter), which means by the time you unthread it everything in the filter has gushed out. This is unlike the 22-RE oil filter that is more or less in the same spot but comes out at a right angle from the block so you can keep the contents inside it as you unthread it.



Yes, I've tried situating the form-a-funnel down from below, but there's no easy exit, even with the skid plate off, because the power steering lines and the frame are in the way, to snake the funnel out from below (I tried twice, spilled a lot). This is the view from the ground up with the referenced LCA--



I have the drain plug part figured out--the Fumoto valve makes that a spill-free affair.

 

I wrap the whole thing in a supermarket plastic back once it's loose. Then slowly lossen it while it's in the bag untill it's removed. Done right and almost no drips.

 

This has been discussed a lot on this forum and there is no known method for a spill-free filter change on the V6, though people have devised methods for spilling as little as possible. I position a shop rag or paper towel below the filter, forming it into a makeshift funnel that directs oil downward to my catch pan and keeps it off of the front differential where oil contamination will damage the bushings. Then I crack the seal on the filter and let it drain out before removing. It works pretty well for me. Don't even think about trying this without removing the skid plates.

 

I haven't tried it yet myself, but check out this thread...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/less-mess-on-3-4-oil-changes.676451/#post-23803683

 

If the filter self drains, let it sit overnight and change oil in the morning

 

Terrific, thanks all! I'm going to give these methods a go, really appreciate the quick and helpful responses. Had not thought of the plastic bag trick or the flex-funnel idea.

@khail19 really appreciate it, had not seen that thread since it's so new. This is the funnel they're using I think: Hyper Tough Super-Flexi fluid spout, 10119PDQ12HT (Walmart product no. 565709163). I'll get one tomorrow.

@b_r_o good idea, I tried that once and it still has a good 1/2 cup or more of oil in it even after sitting for 48 hours without running--I tried it and sure enough plenty still came out even when it was left to sit for two days.

Y'all are the best.

 

Oil filter relocation FTW!!

 

A little twist on the plastic bag idea. A friend told me to try this - about the cleanest, quickest, and cheapest way to have nearly no drips.
For the plastic bag - try a ziploc sandwich bag.
1st remove the plug and let the oil drain like you normally would.
2nd put a couple of shop rags in the area under the oil filter - squished in close as you can and spread out around there - pretty small area to cover just under filter attachment location.
3rd take the ziploc sandwich bag and put over filter and keep pushing it up until the bottom of the sandwich bag is against the bottom of the oil filter and the top is squished as far up past the top of the filter as you can get.
4th unscrew the oil filter - don't dilly dally here if engine warm, and with work gloves this will be a little warm - quickly and as soon as clear of the threads turn filter upright and move to drain pan.
5th place new oil filter and tighten
6th remove rags from under filter location and wipe any drips - which will be pretty minimal.

A buddy told me to try this. Not rocket science. Not as cool or in depth as other fixes here. But, quick, cheap, and nearly drip free.

 

Oil filters have an anti-drainback valve that prevents this from happening.

 

Not all of them

 

Front diff
Oil contamination
Damage bushings
First time I recall hearing of this
Is this a common occurrence?

 

I've been doing this for over a decade with some nightmare filter removals. I'm sure there is a better way out there somewhere.

 

My way works good for me most of the oil from the filter runs down my hand down my arm into my shirt .

No mess on the floor though putting the shirt in the laundry with the Ex-Wifes clothing was most likely not a good idea .

 

Don't want to jinx it, but I have found a way that is drip free for changing oil on the V6. Two insights led me there: (i) you have to squarely catch everything that comes off the little lip that's right below the filter, which I think is the top of the oil pan and (ii) the engine pumps out way more oil than you expect even once the filter is off, mostly comes out of the hollow bolt that the filter threads on to.

My approach (YMMV) and the bolded parts are the things I've figured out over the last few months that make it truly drip-less:

1) Use a Fumoto valve for draining from the drain plug. I heard lots of opinions about this and ultimately a sage friend endorsed it and I went for it. Couple years now and no trouble. Would recommend the crazily overpriced plastic part that they sell to sock into the tube you use to drain out, it really makes connecting the aquarium hose or whatever to the nipple much easier.

2) Careful to hold the hose onto the Fumoto valve when you are switching to an empty jug (capacity of mine at least is more than a gallon)--it has a tendency to slip off the nipple (even with the plastic thing) and then slide into the full gallon of oil, which makes for a fun fishing adventure to get it back (you have to drain the whole gallon etc.)

3) Open the filler cap up top in the engine bay to let the pressure out but put the cap on to avoid dust etc. getting in.

4) Crank the wheels to the left (insert the key but don't turn on the engine). Use those muscles to take the place of power steering.

5) Remove the half dozen "christmas tree" plastic rivets that hold the front half of the wheel well skirt in place. These are available aftermarket on Amazon for like $10 for 50 of them and they last a couple times. You should see the back of the oil filter after you (gently) move the skirt over to the back of the wheel well (I drape it over the upper control arm).

6) Buy a ~half gallon juice container that is roughly rectangular. Cut the top off so that you just have the bottom and the rectangular part (cutting off the conical, sweeping part that goes up to the cap). You can also just cut off the bottom half inch or so, though in that case you're inverting it and trusting the cap won't leak. This is the one I buy (dump out the juice, stuff is straight sugar): Product Details (meijer.com).

7) Crawl under and remove the skid plate. I have yet to find a way to do this spill-free with the skid plate on. Pain yes, but if you don't then you just have oil sitting in the skid plate and it attracts grime etc.

8) Carefully place the juice container underneath the lip immediately below the oil filter. This is the key part, this is what makes all the magic possible. Look at it from below and above and from the wheel well and adjust as necessary. Basically you're trying to create a place for all the oil to stream off the little lip and right into the container. It's almost perfect dimensions so you have to compress the container a bit to get it up in there. The great part though is that it's tight enough that it will hold up on its own, even half full of oil.

9) Unscrew the oil filter until oil is dribbling out, but not all the way. Wait a while, listen to it drip into the juice container. Note with glee how it does not fall on the ground or your head or your arm or your diff.

10) Take a gallon zip lock freezer bag and scrunch it fully around the oil filter, so that the base of the filter is at the bottom of the bag and there's a ton of bag that's squished against the block. Slowly twist off the oil filter. Takes patience because you have to rotate the bag with it and you also have to make sure the bag is still on the filter. The bag also makes the grip on the filter a little less easy. Though if you're struggling too much you're probably putting on your oil filters too tight.

11) Once the oil filter is off, slide it down into the zip lock. The key I've found here is gravity, you want the opening of the bag (the zip lock part) to be as high as possible and also be the part you're guiding out into the wheel well. If the bag gets inverted or dragged down, then the oil is going to fall out and you'll be upset.

12) Wait a while for the oil to pour out of the oil filter housing area into the juice container. I've been waiting like at least a few minutes because it's annoying to wipe it and then quickly put on the new filter.

13) Screw on the new filter through the wheel well. I do hand tight and then back it off a quarter or a third of a turn.

14) Gingerly pull the juice container straight down and away from the truck. If you cut the top off then it'll stand on its own, if you cut the bottom off then it won't.

15) Make sure drain plug / Fumoto valve is closed and fill oil from the top. I've been using these big clear funnels and I have to say it's better than the combination of two small funnels I'd used before. The clear funnel is genius because you know exactly how much is in it and how to gauge the flow rate.

 

I just want to record for posterity the paper towel method w/ pictures. Just position the "funnel" so it rests on the front pumpkin and situated below the filter. Crack the seal and let it drain then remove all the way and invert. Take off the towel and wipe the top of the pumpkin if anything seeped through the towel. No mess.

 

Let it sit overnight so it will drain a little

 

Not going to start a debate on this, but changing cold oil takes a long time, especially with a fumoto valve. I always warm up the engine first. The anti-drainback valve keeps the filter full between starts anyway.

 

I can agree about the cold oil

Agree to disagree about the "anti drain back valve". For some reason everybody on TW thinks that's a thing, it's really not. Ive been changing oil on toyotas for 20 years and plenty of filters come off empty. The old cast iron camry 4 cylinders had the filter mounted at an angle, after sitting for 20 minutes they were empty when removed. Same filter number as the 3.4

 

I've given up on that and just let it spill onto my skid plate. I leave the drain pan under the skid for the rest of the night to let it drip into there. After a few years, I take off the skid and scrape out the 1/4" layer of oil and dirt.

 

Why not just the ziploc sandwich bag over the old filter? It ain’t rocket science but it is very effective. Has anyone else tried this?