1st Gen Tacoma 12" OSR Outboard Shock Relocation - Outside Frame Rails

There just isn’t room for that with the leaf pack and the 2.5” body, we tried on the Solo kit, and he tried with this kit too. There just isn’t room to do it, making it side specific would be best, but it’s not a deal breaker.

 

Yessir

 

I've wheeled 265's on my 5th gen a ton and they do work well for the size if it's a decent AT/MT tire. But most who are going to drop the coin for this kit and pay someone else to install will be running a 285,295,305,315 wide tires. So their shocks will be covered in rubber from the taller/wider tire arcing into the bodies at full compression.

 

315s are where it's at for sure.

 

Are you assuming my tire size?


Sorry for bring immaturity and , into the thread.


Everyone carry on.

 

you're only going to get 10-12"max travel from most leaf setups on a 1st gen. a 255/85 is a perfect 33, or sometimes close to a 34 depending on the manufacturer. I'm running 265/75's which are small, but my tire size is my least limiting factor while wheeling.

99% of my wheeling is done in desert/rocky soil, so narrow tall tires are best for.

 

Looks bad ass cant wait for my kit

 

I'm not saying small(er) tires don't work off road but 255/85/16 limits your tire selections to a very few MT's and 10 ply trailer tires.


You got this kit to work, a few others probably will also but it's not the end all of rear shock relocation kits for 1st gens.

 

Agreed, but since it’s designed for a 2.5” body, it will have the critical frame clearance dimensions built in. No other kit on the market does. Competition is a good thing, and all of the other options are very clear that they are only designed for a 2.0

Tire clearance on a first gen will always be an issue, that’s just the nature of the game with these trucks.

 

I don't think that was ever the point for this kit..

 

why are there 2 holes?

 

That's due to me. Want to try stuffing a bypass in there.

 

what'd I miss?

 

Nothing at all, I’m just shit posting cause I’m bored.


Once again, sorry for trashing the thread.

 

You might be able to fit a double bypass MAYBE, but NOT necessary or needed for a stock length leaf spring fire roads runner. Get a light (12F) comp stack and and compression adjuster for when your loaded down, it will work way better than with you dicking with the bypass tubes just for fun and fit in a tight space better.

Style 3 layout that doesn't stick out on either side of the body.





Be sure to get a low on the body resi hose outlet for the shock to work it's best. Like the shock on the right in this pic.

 

Yes I have thought this out in terms of fitting one. Thanks though.

I fail to see how a comp adjuster would do the same thing a bypass would. They aren't doing the same thing.

 

You will need custom bypass tube layouts and overlaps to effectively use it on the rear of a tacoma with a 10-12" shock . It's dependent on were the piston is in the body in relation to were the bypass ports are. IMO not worth the expense, noise, packaging in this application. If you just want more buzz words for you build thread by all means spend away on something you will mess with once/twice and never touch again VS simple comp adjuster knob you can go up and down with as your load out changes. If your main piston valving is correct or close there is no need for a bypass tubes and adding a comp adjuster will give you the adjustment you're looking for. Hell a Gen 1 Raptor rear shock with a revalve will get your "bypass shock" for 1/2 the cost.

 

So you're saying it's not worth it because the travel of the shock is too small thus the areas the bypass are using are so small it's not worth it?

Well keep in mind I have a front long travel kit. And plan on adding bypasses to that. And hydros to the rear. You'd still only run a shock with a comp adjuster to try and keep up with? Yes yes of course a stock SOA setup is not going to keep up with a front lt kit but that's my point and no I'm not doing SUA I'd rather link it and that's not in cards at the moment. But still you think a normal shock and comp vavle adjuster is going to do the trick?