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1st gen Side Mirror Lights!

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Blackdawg, Nov 11, 2012.

  1. Nov 11, 2012 at 1:06 AM
    #1
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    So i have a couple of Blitzpro LED bars left over after my lighting plans changed a bit. So i came up with an idea.

    Why not mount them in my side mirrors? cool!

    [​IMG]


    So here is what you'll need.

    2 Blitzpro 6'' LED bars ($30 bucks a pop found here)
    Dremel or other such cutting tool
    Extra set of mirrors(not REALLY required, but not a bad idea, i shall explain later)
    Soldering gun/iron
    Solder
    Lots of wire both ground and power(i even bought a wire that had both in the same cable for pulling it though the doors. VERY handy. Not needed though but nice)
    Trailer 2 plug connectors
    Fuse holder
    Relay
    switch
    structural Epoxy of some sort
    hand files
    screw drivers
    T10 torque bit
    10mm socket
    drill with 1/4'' metal bit
    grinder wheel

    and of course the balls to cut up your mirrors and skills to do the wiring and tearing about the truck..a bit.


    oooookay. So lets get started.

    The first step is of course getting the mirrors apart. Now, this is trick. On my mirrors(95-97 1st gen) there is a ring that you can see to pull off. However, the glass is held in by tabs by this ring. This means that if you just stick a screwdriver in it and pry, the glass will crack as you pop one side out. This poses a problem of course and is why i suggest getting a set of spare mirrors to steal the glass out of. Why? well when i went to the parts store the glass was made to order only. Not sure how much it would cost, but a set of spare mirrors will run you like 20-40 bucks. If someone does just order glass please let me know!

    So as a result, i ended up breaking out all my glass while popping off the outer ring.

    [​IMG]

    From here you must remove that glass honeycomb structure support. There are 4 T10 torquex screw you much take out and the 1 main 10mm bolt that holds the main joint together.

    Two screws are up top on the honeycomb struceture, and two are on the bottom on the mirror.

    Red are T10 screws, Yellow is bolt. You have to also pop of the small plastic cover that hides the bolt.

    [​IMG]

    Should be like when done. KEEP TRACK OF ALL THE PARTS IN THE JOINT! and the order they go in. This is also another good reason to have extra mirrors. I actually had to borrow some of the joint parts as a few broke just from age.

    [​IMG]

    Now for the cutting! I used a pretty nice tool but i don't think most will have it. I used one of these. Its a multi tool that has different blades. I can't remember the brand i used but it was very nice and using the curved blade made it quite easy. I set the light it and got a rough idea where to cut and went to town.

    Two important things about this:

    1: the Blitzpro lights have a kind of lip. The clear lens is smaller then the black backing/heatsink. So i want my hole to allow the clear lens through but not the back part so as to help create a seal.

    2: Id strongly recommend NOT cutting it super exact. Cut smaller then what you think. You can ALWAYS cut out more..can't really add plastic easily though..


    My first cut was much too small, i was okay with that and set about using hand files to get it perfect. It took some time but i got it how i wanted it.

    Now because i had to push the LED bar more out side the mirror this presented a slight issue. It put the end of the bar into the curved part. This did not allow the light to sit flat as the hole was small enough it would only let the clear lens through. So i made the outside portion of the mirror even larger to allow the black back part of the light stick out as well which in turned let the light sit flush.

    As you can see the left part of the mirror(outside) is wider then the right(inside)

    [​IMG]

    As you can see, part of the bar is now outside the whole mirror while another part is on the inside with only the lens out.

    [​IMG]

    this did take some filing and time to get it just right but really the light sate in just great and practically held itself especially with the honeycomb struce behind it.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    From here i applied my epoxy on both the inside and outside of the light careful not to get any on the lens. This provided even a tighter hold for the light but also a good weather seal.

    rigged this up to keep it in place.

    [​IMG]

    now after letting them sit for a day i went back to work with getting the mirror back together.

    first i had to get the wire out. Now some might be saying why not go through the joint? well..easier said then done. In order to still allow the mirror to freely pivot, you would have to cut very large notches in the joint..all three layers of it..if you want too, please do! But i found this way to be very effective and really doesn't look bad.

    i started by drilling a hole at the bottom of the mirror on the inside just by the drain hole using a 1/4'' drill bit.

    [​IMG]

    Then i passed the wire through.

    [​IMG]

    this is how i have the wire on the inside.

    [​IMG]

    Next i drilled yet another hole in the small plastic cover that goes over the joint bolt on the bottom

    [​IMG]

    Then i drill a hole right in between the two slots that the cover goes into on the mirror mount. (please ignore the hole in the slot on the left of the center hole, that was my failed first attempt)

    [​IMG]

    You will also right above the hole have to cut a notch in the mirror mount. This is to allow the wire up so the wire can come down into the door through the gasket.

    Make sure to take a small round file and smooth the edges as best you can in the two metal holes! and get any flakes off.

    [​IMG]

    So the wire route through the mirror is like so for now..

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    great! Now you put the joint and honeycomb structure back together.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    here is the joint in case you forgot. BUT..i forgot a piece..its actually there but i didn't pull it out for you to see :eek: But i did show it again so you should know how it goes together just right.

    [​IMG]

    the piece i forgot to pull from the mirror is actually the first part of the joint.

    This is how it starts..
    [​IMG]

    needs to look like this
    [​IMG]

    Then the second half sphere goes on, followed by the main joint

    [​IMG]

    so you have this..
    [​IMG]

    then add the smaller half sphere
    [​IMG]

    then the metal washer
    [​IMG]

    then the bolt!
    [​IMG]

    Then torque it down to a point that the mirror is movable, but not super hard, not to easy either.

    [​IMG]

    So now you can thread the light wire though the hole you cut and put the small plastic joint cover back on.

    [​IMG]

    now for the gasket. I used a leather hole punch, but even just a slit will work. Put it up in the middle of the gasket somewhere to ensure it goes in the hole on the door.

    [​IMG]

    Now we are left with this!

    [​IMG]

    Should be done with the hard stuff! now its just wiring!
    [​IMG]


    Now wiring. Sadly i don't have as many photos on this..might have to go get more we shall see how people fair with this project.

    Now for wires i went to Orielys and asked if they had any paired wire. Sure enough they had some pair wire which is just one wire..but has two separate wires in it. This is crucial i think as you'll be running it in the door and it'll make your life MUCH easier. Also your going to want two sets of these or something similar

    [​IMG]

    Why? well, ya never know when you might have to take the door off. Your going to want to be able to remove these easily. Just solder them on to the the ends the go into the cab.

    I simplly soldered the wires together with plenty of length to go from the mirror through the door and into the cab.

    You have to take off the door panels to do this so go ahead and do that. You will also have to remove the rubber wire sheath that projects the wires running from the door to the cab. you do NOT have to disconnect the wires from the door. Just push the grommet out on either side. Also removing the door speakers is a must so you can actually grab the wire and see whats going on.

    [​IMG]

    Then drop the cable down through the door.
    [​IMG]

    MAKE SURE IT RUNS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE WINDOW GUIDE! You don't want to have it get pinched by the window!!

    okay so then you have to remove the inside lower kick panel and then disconnect the two big plugs for the windows and door locks. Granted that is if you have power windows and locks.

    So now you just push the wire through the Grommet shielding and through the hole on the other side like so.

    [​IMG]

    put the shield back on like stock
    [​IMG]

    from here i actually had too much wire. I simply coiled it up very tightly inside the door. Then zip tied it to the internal door support so it was far out of the way of anything and wouldn't move around.

    Then simply reattach everything and wire the lights up however you seem fit. I did it with a relay like i do all my lights but they are just small LED bars and don't pull a ton so you can do it a lot of ways.

    Now some pic of them in action.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Mirror lights off
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    mirror lights on
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    If you have ANY question i will be more then happy to answer them! Or get more pictures if need.

    Thanks!

    Lets see who else will cut up some stuff now :cool:

    Big Thanks to Blitzpro!
     
  2. Nov 11, 2012 at 1:07 AM
    #2
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    BFG KM2 33x12.5 tires, Wheelers Type B rims, Allpro 1.5'' Wheel spacers w/extended thread lug nuts 2 Alpine 10'' Type Xs 2 Kicker 6X9s 4 Sony 5 1/4s Pioneer 4100 HU Sway bar removed 4 Hella 500 HIDs Frankenstein Leaf packs 1'' lift shackles Eibach coils 5100s front 10'' 5150s rear BAMF BPV bracket Deckplate mod Elite Front bumper Magnaflow 14'' muffler Elite Off Road Rear bumper with Tire gate with jerry can and fold down table, BAMF sliders, Custom Homemade Bed, rack/roof rack, CVT Mt. Shasta Roof Top Tent, 20lb CO2 tank, BAMF diff skid custom front skid, GM CS144 140 amp alternator Blitzpro 21s HAWK side LEDs Blitzpro Custom made side mirror lights, LightForce 240 Blitz llights, Piaa 510 ION fogs, XRC8 Winch w/in cab controls,
    Subbed for..something..maybe
     
  3. Nov 11, 2012 at 1:09 AM
    #3
    DSully72

    DSully72 Well-Known Member

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    hm. not too shabby... havent seen this on a 1st gen yet... thats for sure...
     
  4. Nov 11, 2012 at 6:36 PM
    #4
    griffin407c

    griffin407c Well-Known Member

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    interesting, but wouldn't it be hard to aim the lights evenly because you have manual mirrors? therefore when you adjust them so you can properly see behind you, the lights will be aimed differently?
     
  5. Nov 11, 2012 at 6:46 PM
    #5
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    That's not the point. They actually light fairly evenly. I put them there to fill the voile when you look out your side window while turning. Works perfect for that on both sides. On trails is when the mobility will be handy as I won't need the mirrors at night anyways.

    And anyone at has motorized mirror won't be able to fit this light in and the glass is what moves not the housing so wouldn't be as effective.
     
  6. Nov 11, 2012 at 6:52 PM
    #6
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Very well could. Not sure
     
  7. Nov 11, 2012 at 7:22 PM
    #7
    griffin407c

    griffin407c Well-Known Member

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    sounds good then.
     
  8. Dec 9, 2012 at 2:45 AM
    #8
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Bump!

    OP updated with night shots!

    More to come in the future with a real photographer.
     
  9. Dec 10, 2012 at 12:06 PM
    #9
    sk8rjess

    sk8rjess bonafide

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    some duct tape and zip ties
  10. Dec 10, 2012 at 12:40 PM
    #10
    The Driver

    The Driver Trail Runner/Barefoot Beach Runner/Snow Skier

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    Oh baby! Subd!!!
     
  11. Dec 10, 2012 at 1:18 PM
    #11
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Been using them for about a month now with no issues! :woot: have had them covered with dirt and been snowed on and no problems.
     
  12. Dec 11, 2012 at 8:12 AM
    #12
    mmcmahan2206

    mmcmahan2206 Well-Known Member

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    Sub'd. SOOOOO love this mod, Monte!
     
  13. Dec 11, 2012 at 11:18 AM
    #13
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Thanks man!
     
  14. Jan 12, 2013 at 6:05 AM
    #14
    HedgehogOutdoors

    HedgehogOutdoors Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking of doing something like this with my 4runner, since the mirror is relatively flat, but I have power mirrors, and I'm going to assume that this won't work.
     
  15. Jan 12, 2013 at 8:38 AM
    #15
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    No idea. I haven't taken apart a power mirror yet.

    Personally idk if I'd do them on those type of mirror that lock into place and you essentially just move the glass. Part of the nice thing about them is to be able to move the housing however you want.

    But I've never tore into power mirrors..
     
  16. Jan 12, 2013 at 8:40 AM
    #16
    Fractured

    Fractured FPS-a-holic

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    Great mod! Looks clean too.
     
  17. Jan 12, 2013 at 8:41 AM
    #17
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Thank you sir! It's very clean. Almost looks factory.
     
  18. Dec 11, 2013 at 8:15 AM
    #18
    CohbsTaco

    CohbsTaco Hood Rat

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    sweet mod dude! cool idea,
     
  19. Dec 12, 2013 at 4:50 PM
    #19
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg [OP] Dr. Frankenstein

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    Vehicle:
    96.5 FrankenTaco & 03 Stock dbl cab
    BFG KM2 33x12.5 tires, Wheelers Type B rims, Allpro 1.5'' Wheel spacers w/extended thread lug nuts 2 Alpine 10'' Type Xs 2 Kicker 6X9s 4 Sony 5 1/4s Pioneer 4100 HU Sway bar removed 4 Hella 500 HIDs Frankenstein Leaf packs 1'' lift shackles Eibach coils 5100s front 10'' 5150s rear BAMF BPV bracket Deckplate mod Elite Front bumper Magnaflow 14'' muffler Elite Off Road Rear bumper with Tire gate with jerry can and fold down table, BAMF sliders, Custom Homemade Bed, rack/roof rack, CVT Mt. Shasta Roof Top Tent, 20lb CO2 tank, BAMF diff skid custom front skid, GM CS144 140 amp alternator Blitzpro 21s HAWK side LEDs Blitzpro Custom made side mirror lights, LightForce 240 Blitz llights, Piaa 510 ION fogs, XRC8 Winch w/in cab controls,
  20. Dec 12, 2013 at 4:53 PM
    #20
    Pliny

    Pliny Offline

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2012
    Member:
    #90249
    Messages:
    10,968
    First Name:
    Leonard Mead
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