1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

That's solid, has it always been that quick and does it stay as quick when the cold weather rolls in?

 

Looks like it was Amazon.

$34 Toyota Thermostat - 90916-03107

https://www.amazon.com/TOYOTA-90916-03107-Genuine-Toyota-Thermostat/dp/B00KTKWGIK

But it looks like there are now some cheaper options.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/293494363189

 

Mine is like this too. No delay.

 

thank you

 

A lot of knowledge and experience in this thread… If I’ve got 10 grand of blow, in your opinion, what is the best option…

- supercharger w/ haltech
- turbo system
- engine swap? Tundra v8, TDI diesel, or…

 

2JZ. BUILT. PERIOD.

 

I noticed that if I turn the key to the run position and leaving it there for a second before trying to start, the engine will crank and start very quickly. If I just turn the key from off to start in one motion like normal, it takes longer. Seems like the ecu takes time to completely start up. Wonder if wiring it to ACC would help

 

Are you sure it isn't a fuel pressure thing?

On mine, when I first turn the key to on, I can hear the fuel pump pressurize the system. I was told on cold starts (or any start where the truck has sat for a while) to let it cycle (3-4) seconds) before cranking. This is not required on a hot start where the truck has been running recently.

 

No not fuel pressure at all, more like the ecu has to boot up for a second.

 

Nice man I am not looking forward to my inspection in two years. I am sure I can make it through, but still dreading it. Plus I have to swap injectors back to stock and hope the old ones still work

 

This might be helpful in this thread for anyone having trigger issues, a link to my turbo build https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/5vzfe-turbo.758728/page-7

 

Gotta love Washington, no more emissions testing here.

 

I'm going to tear open my wiring loom wrap near the ECU and see if I have the same splice, very curious.

 

What does your schematic show? Does it have an input at the ecu for both cam negative and crank negative? I found a tacoma schematic online and it did show the negatives spliced together with only one wire to the ecu after the splice

 

Mine only shows the shielding being tied together.

 

Hmm actually the OE Electrical diag shows it with splices internally at the ECU

 

To me this looks like the factory wiring has the camshaft sensor using the crank sensor negative as a pull up or a bias

 

I talked with Gabe about this and he said it can be wired with a dedicated separate wire for both sensors to the haltech and bypassing the stock ECU,

might be something I will do later on

 

Yeah, the haltech expects them to be separate anyway, should just be a matter of decoupling the splices or running a separate shielded twisted pair cable to the crank sensor, either one can accomplish the goal.

 

Yes, has always been like this, starts immediately regardless of temperature and no need to wait for the fuel pump or anything