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1st Gen Switch cluster location suggestions?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by STLharry, Jul 18, 2010.

  1. Jul 18, 2010 at 7:57 PM
    #1
    STLharry

    STLharry [OP] Lube: It's the key to penetration.

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    I searched both this forum and the lighting one for a little while but couldn't find anything with pictures, but I am looking for suggestions on how/where to put a switch cluster for my 01 Tacoma.

    My old 96 had the light switch in between the square cup holder and the shift boot, but there isn't any room for one there in the 01. I would like to have room for 2 light, compressor, locker and 1 other. I plan to use the light-up toggle switches from a local parts store (I already have one).

    Any pictures would help too! Thanks
     
  2. Jul 18, 2010 at 8:04 PM
    #2
    WhatThePho?

    WhatThePho? Greg Graffin 2016

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    The things required to pull bitches
    Do you have the stock head unit or aftermarket one?

    A buddy of mine has an aftermarket head unit and put the switches in the blank spot under the head unit.
     
  3. Jul 18, 2010 at 8:06 PM
    #3
    STLharry

    STLharry [OP] Lube: It's the key to penetration.

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    Where?
     
  4. Jul 18, 2010 at 8:06 PM
    #4
    MHS2846bg8

    MHS2846bg8 Experienced Noob

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    Easiest place I've found to put switches is the left side of the steering wheel panel area...kinda by the fuse box.
     
  5. Jul 18, 2010 at 8:10 PM
    #5
    MHS2846bg8

    MHS2846bg8 Experienced Noob

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    Here is what I have now...still have to clean up the glue from the blue switch...

    [​IMG]

    I did have 4 other toggle switches (the ones you buy at pep boys or something) mounted below the fuse box panel...but I replaced them with one lighted switch and the flat mount switches (which kinda suck because they are not lighted to tell you if they're on or not)
     
  6. Jul 18, 2010 at 9:27 PM
    #6
    pittim

    pittim mittip

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    Pink slider.
    how much are you willing to fabricate?

    above the map lights/ rear view mirror would be a good spot for a panel.
     
  7. Jul 19, 2010 at 4:32 AM
    #7
    STLharry

    STLharry [OP] Lube: It's the key to penetration.

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    No I think I want them in the middle of the cab.
    Yeah you're right, but idk how I would get the wires up there easily
     
  8. Jul 19, 2010 at 9:36 AM
    #8
    pittim

    pittim mittip

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    Respect your elder gen.
    Pink slider.
    drop the front of the headliner, run thru the a piller.
     
  9. Jul 19, 2010 at 6:25 PM
    #9
    STLharry

    STLharry [OP] Lube: It's the key to penetration.

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    Hm.. maybe depends how hard it is.
     
  10. Jul 19, 2010 at 6:26 PM
    #10
    STLharry

    STLharry [OP] Lube: It's the key to penetration.

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    I also have a CB radio that need to be mounted to the left of the shifter in the passenger foot well. How have ppl done that? I have seen a few but forget how
     
  11. Jul 19, 2010 at 6:33 PM
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    747

    747 function > form

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    If the interior is the same as an '03, it's a cinch! Here's photos of mine with the driver's side pillar off; just be gentle when pulling the front of the headliner down (you'll need to remove the mirror/light cluster and the visor before pulling the headliner).

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Jul 19, 2010 at 6:40 PM
    #12
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS RAT Products

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    View the build. Too much to list.
    If you have an aftermarket radio, you have to get a pocket to fill the gap under the radio because it's half as tall as stock. You could then fab a plastic piece to fill the pocket and mount the switches.
     
  13. Jul 19, 2010 at 10:54 PM
    #13
    Manlaan

    Manlaan Well-Known Member

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    I found a 7x7x2 aluminum project box and cut out switches for the stuff I wanted.

    [​IMG]

    The greens are seat warmers.
    The first red/orange one is for fog and roof lights.
    The second red/orange is for driving lights and nothing yet
    The switch with the cover is for winch power, and the one with two labels is to control the winch direction.

    I actually need to find a way to add another switch in since I want to add rock lights, bed lights, and reverse lights, but only have half a free switch. Maybe even a front locker one of these years.

    Downfall of this setup is its impossible to see the switches in the dark.

    Regretfully, I cant seem to find the place I found the project box, as I'd really like to make another one with smaller switches in order to fit in more and labels for night time.
     
  14. Jul 20, 2010 at 5:39 AM
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    STLharry

    STLharry [OP] Lube: It's the key to penetration.

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    Geez thanks for the pictures. What do you have to do in order to get the headliner down?
    Yeah that's what I wanted to do originally...I just couldn't find a plastic piece.
     
  15. Jul 20, 2010 at 7:17 AM
    #15
    Manlaan

    Manlaan Well-Known Member

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    This is the one I originally bought and didn't plan for two attempts. I didn't mess up, but it was still too long front to back so I ended up cutting it down about in half anyway.
    http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=7360005

    If you wanted to go one size larger, you could do http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=7360006 This is probably the one I'm going to end up getting when I redo mine. Easier to cut off than it is to add back on...

    http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=7360002 might work for something on the roof and if you dont like it there, you could always move it down under the head unit, although I think I'd prefer something with a little smoother edges for a top mount.

    I couldn't easily find a 4.5" box, but something about that size would probably work for replacing the ash tray if you wanted something a little smaller. (The Cobra 19 radio is 4.5x1.75 and I've seen it mounted in the ash tray with a bit of cutting in back). I'm sure if you look around that site you can find something about that width. The magic number for standard size switches seems to be about 2" in height, although you can get away with less if you use toggle switches instead; they just dont look as nice.

    Of course just slap a coat of paint on if it you dont like the aluminum look. I used a textured paint and think it turned out good. I'll probably do the same thing again.
     
  16. Jul 20, 2010 at 9:57 AM
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    747

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    I don't know how to take the complete headliner down...I just pulled the front of the headliner (near the top of the driver's side pillar, to the windshield) down a bit in order to run the power wire to my radar detector. Pulling that part of the headliner (as opposed to the entire headliner) down should be enough to run/hide your wire(s), and easily re-secure the headliner (via pillar trim, visor, and mirror/light cluster). Good luck; post pics.
     
  17. Jul 20, 2010 at 1:38 PM
    #17
    STLharry

    STLharry [OP] Lube: It's the key to penetration.

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    Hm that's great advice but I think I'm gonna go to a junkyard and try to find a flat sheet of plastic or metal or something. You can get real creative with a sawzall...;)
     
  18. Jul 20, 2010 at 1:46 PM
    #18
    pittim

    pittim mittip

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    just go to a hardware store and buy flat stock.
     
  19. Jul 20, 2010 at 4:02 PM
    #19
    Manlaan

    Manlaan Well-Known Member

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    The problem your going to have with plastic is strength. My first attempt at it, I tried it with some thick Kydex and it just allowed for too much free play. You'd have to reinforce the back of the plastic around the switches with something, if you put them as close as I did.

    Also, with plastic, you now have to worry about how to get it to stay in place, which means heating and bending. It just got to the point it was way too much work when other options were available, more durable, and already fit with out any adjustments.


    This is definitely an option, and actually what I did at one point. I had some 3/16" plate laying around and cut it out. That steel ended up being just too much for what was needed. I could've made it work, but between all the drilling, cutting, filing, and bending, it was a lot more work than I wanted to put into it, specially when there was already something that would fit with out any work. If I went this route, I would've been a lot better off with a 2.5x12 length of aluminum, but would still have to worry about bending the tops (for more rigidity) and sides (to mount to the bracket).
     
  20. Jul 22, 2010 at 4:47 PM
    #20
    STLharry

    STLharry [OP] Lube: It's the key to penetration.

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    Hm ok. I'm leaning toward the maplight area for the cluster. This means I would need a box like you posted as well as a way to attach it up there. Suggestions?
     
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