1st Gen Tacoma 12" OSR Outboard Shock Relocation - Outside Frame Rails

Rub sorry not run. I have 2.5 triple bypass right now that's why when I install the kit I wanna stick with 2.5

 

How are the pipes on your bypasses oriented? You gonna out tis on your tundy axle

 

I'm going to sell the bypasses there 16s I'm currently using to big of a shock for my set up and going threw the bed with a cage and only all pro leafs. Ya when this gets installed the tundra axle will be installed at the same time. Tempted to buy the shocks now but thinking of waiting untill I know exactly what I can fit

 

2.5

Rubbin’s racin’

 

Just some observations for those not familiar, your ADS are especially short as they have an "over-the-body" top cap and welded lower ends, both helping to make them short. Normal universal King and Fox 2.5"x10" like Willbeck has are about 18" compressed

 

Will, thanks for posting vids and pics. Looking good

 

Totally true. Did a bunch of research to end up with the ADS for exactly this reason (which I'll eventually get into a write-up). You can shorten up the Kings a bit (to 17.3" collapsed from 18.3") by getting welded lowers on them as well, but still much longer than ADS.

Update: Here's the full story, check it all out
Part 1: Collecting Parts and Heading South
Part 2: Fabrication...and Failure
Part 3: Scrapping the First Attempt and Trying Again

and, if you're doing this yourself:
How-To: Toyota Tacoma Rear Shock Relocation - Determining Leaf Spring Cycle and Mount Positioning​

 

You can get the thread over cap as well from King if you want and it'll be closer to 15.5'' collapsed if you want.

basically a coilover with a welded rod end.

 

King will make them that way too, but that’s some good leg work to find ways to stuff the shock where you wanted, vs making the mounts around the shock.

 

Cool, in no way am I trying to undermine the validity of your route, just wanted make explicit why it works, and that you can't just get a standard King/Fox 10" and have the same results

 

Happy to do it!

 

Loving what I'm seeing so far - so I'm wanting to put together a mid travel kit and more than likely going with King coil overs/TC UCA's but still debating what I should with my rear. I'm currently bone stock and really like the travle that this outboard shock setup allows.

I'm into slow crawling, needing max articulation and will run 285's for now but eventually wanting 315's. With that in mind, would you guys recommend this setup for me or something different.

Would love to take full advantage of a 10-12" shock stroke.

 

This might not be the kit for you. Putting shocks inboard and angled will give you more flex travel. This kit won't as much. It's much more geared towards going fast than flexing.

 

Also you won’t get as much ajustment when it comes to getting you alignment on total chaos arms. If your going 315s just get the spc arms. That will lead to less tubbing

 

Very good info fellas - appreciate it, I'm coming over from the jeep world so still learning a lot off this forum!

 

Shock location does not affect flex or travel. The springs do as well as the valving of the shock. You can run them outboard and have good results crawling as it makes it more stable and still use all of the travel from the leaf springs. Like stated before the issue becomes rubbing the shock body which can be eliminated by a wider axle or notching the frame.

 

Your statement is contradictory. If rubbing the shock is an issue through the travel then shock location has a large affect with flex.

Shock valving doesn’t have anything to do with suspension geometry.

 

A wider axle or notched frame eliminates the rubbing issue which not everyone needs or wants. I'm just talking about leaf springs and suspension in general that the amount of travel you get is from leaf springs not the shocks. The shocks are there to dampen the ride and moving them does not get you more travel unless they where to short and limiting droop or the shock bodies are to long and limiting up travel.

And you are correct shock valving doesnt have anything to do with the geometry but hes saying that in board and angled shocks will give him more travel which is not true. The spring will travel the same distance whether the shock is in board or out board but the dampening and stability will be different.

 

Inboard will allow more wheel travel then outboard. It's simple geometry.

If you have a 10" shock outboard the frame vs inboard the fulcrum can move further with it closer to the center point.

Now, the guy that asked this question did not seem like he was about to cut his bed to pieces and notch his frame to match his sac front or anything like that. Sounded like he was going for mostly bolt ons and stated very clearly he was crawling more. Seeing as how you can fit a 10" under the bed in various ways you can get more flex out of a 10" shock there then outboard.

Yes of course this is pending all other things that are involved with it including the leafs. But for all we know he wants Chevy 63s too for lots of flex.

In which case...

Inboard will merit him more wheel travel with less hassle than outboard.

Vertical travel it doesn't matter. You can fit 10s in or out but will rub when out this once again limiting your flex likely with tire rubbing ESPECIALLY with 35s on the truck. Wider axle or not. Which is a whole other topic and leap for someone doing a build with these trucks that very rather ever fits in with someone's uses and needs with a 1st gen taco.


I stand by my statement.

He'd be better off with in board shocks.

 

What you're saying is the amount of travel is based off of the leaf springs and not other limitations, such as shock location, yet followed up your statement in saying that if the shock is too short/long then it directly limits your suspension travel?

I think what @Blackdawg is trying to say is that if you go inboard with your shock mounting and use some geometry in their mounting placement then you can yield much better cycling numbers than outboard due to the fact that you will not have a rubbing issue on the shock and limits bump travel.

Yes, you can do an axle swap or notch the frame but very few individuals want to go that route as its much more of an investment to do so and takes additional work/ability. You are also failing to realize that the point in a kit like this is