1st Gen Tacoma Resurrection

Question: Are you getting the heads rebuilt while the engine is apart?

 

I'm swapping over the heads from the engine that blew up. Thought about buying rebuilt heads but figured I'd give these low mileage ones a go first.

 

Got the right head cleaned up and on - now on to messing with valve shims. Was gonna ship it and not mess with the adjustment BUT since I'm this far in and it's easy now to check and swap the shims out if need be here we are. Never messed with valve shims so it's something new to me.

 

Might as well give em a try. Either they work or they don't. And if they work it's a nice victory.

 

Maybe - the goal is to get it as close to OEM (could have left the factory like that), so that would include the cancel switch. We shall see though. I did pull all the E locker stuff off the donor truck (minus the E-locker, the diff is pretty rusty) so eventually I'd like to get both an E locker put in with the factory switch (minus the the electronics that only allow it to engage at low speed) and the cancel switch for the clutch. But all in due time.

 

Lots going on that I just haven't spent much time on getting the engine ready. BUT did finally get the heads on and working on the timing belt now.

December 20th vs today April 24th

 

Tiny bit of progress. I had to use the timing belt cover off the higher mileage truck since the one on the 82k mile engine was damaged. Heat gun and new labels and she looks pretty good. Was going to buy reproduction labels but fortunately Toyota still has them available.

Other than that lots of cleaning getting the valve covers ready for paint. Slowly getting there.........

 

Finally dug into the valve adjustment with buckets and shims. I'd put if off for some time. For the most part I was able to move shims around and use shims from the high mileage heads. In the end I ended up ordering 5 shims ($10 a pop) out of 24.
All went smooth until I was swapping out a shim and the tool that holds the bucket down decided to pop off and go down the one hole in the head and into the block. Even rotating the engine I couldn't get it out. Had to pull the pan unfortunately. Wasn't too happy - but this is all much easier on the rotating engine stand than if this happened when the motor was in the truck.
No wonder many guys never adjust these on the 5VZ and why it's an expensive job!

 

What an amazing build! I don't have the body strength (health issues) or the space to get this involved with my Taco, but your build has been a wonderful journey and I can't wait to see the end.

 

Wrapped up the shim install a few weeks ago. Ended up getting them all within spec. Found some time to get the valve covers painted and the gaskets/spark plug seals installed. Should finally get around to getting the heads/valve covers all squared away so I can start installing the intake manifold.
Been sidetracked with other things around here; the boy earned his green belt last week (he's the shortest in the group photo (7 soon to be 8 yrs old), I dragged home a 2006 Aprilia Scarabeo 500c scoot and we are rescued a European starling chick that fell out of the nest.

 

You are aware the locked and unlocked rear ends have different ring sizes right

 

Made it my goal on Friday to get the engine together and to the point it is ready to toss back in. Just need to do a final leak down test (for my own curiosity as we are sending it no matter what), toss plugs in and bolt the coils down.

Only distraction this weekend was chasing down a 1966 Honda CB450K0 Black Bomber So far that 'barn find dust' has come off nicely and she is cleaning up.

 

While putting the plug wires on the engine I realized that there was a piece of the timing belt cover that had broken off. For some reason this annoyed me so I bought a used one off of eBay that had been pulled off in 2002 when a TRD supercharger was installed, so it was in like new condition. Yeah - I spent $50 on that
I also did get the 3rd pedal installed. Templated off the donor truck first and swiss cheesed that firewall. Made a cardboard template and transferred the marks to the truck. I was still off ever so slightly so the two holes where the studs on the clutch pedal poke threw were a little too big and the OEM gasket would not cover. Bought some gasket material and stainless washers and came up with a 'fix'.




"new" timing belt cover installed and spark plug harness clipped in





Gasket set in place


Master installed.


3rd pedal in - waiting for a 5 speed brake pedal assembly to arrive. Slow but steady progress.

 

Nice BMW.

 

Thanks - 1975 BMR R90. Scored that for $500 last year in running condition with title.

 

Keeping the ball rolling I decided to test this front differential before I throw it in. On the advice of others and while looking things over it is going to be much easier to toss the front diff in first before the engine. I'm using the vacuum actuator vs the electric motor driven actuator. Picked up a Mityvac - put vacuum on it and couldn't get it to disengage. Finally decided to open it up and test the vacuum actuator off the truck and:

Previous owner had already locked it out for use with manual hubs with the good old band clamp!



Pulled it off - slathered on the Toyota RTV and pulled another vacuum on it. Works as it should!




Beyond that threw the bellhousing back on the transmission, installed the throwout bearing and am currently cleaning up the dynamic damper for reuse off the parts truck (The 5 speed I bought was missing it off the transfer case).

 

Ball is rolling now - got the front differential bolted in and am in the process of cleaning up and touching up parts of the frame while I have easy access.