1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

1st Oil Change Poll

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by spaghettiedy, Oct 7, 2008.

?

1st Oil change

  1. 500 - Dyno

    3.9%
  2. 500 - Synthetic

    3.7%
  3. 1k - Dyno

    4.9%
  4. 1k - Synthetic

    7.7%
  5. 2k - Dyno

    2.2%
  6. 2k - Synthetic

    6.2%
  7. 3k - Dyno

    12.3%
  8. 3k - Synthetic

    16.8%
  9. 5k - Dyno

    13.3%
  10. 5k - Synthetic

    29.0%
  1. fletch aka

    fletch aka www.BeLikeBrit.org

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2009
    Member:
    #12223
    Messages:
    7,158
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Gary
    Left Coast
    Vehicle:
    09 Magnetic Gray TRD OffRoad
    TRD cat back exhaust, TRD Cold Air Intake, differential breather mod' Hellwig rear sway bar, 16x8 TRD Ivan Stewart's, Michelin LTX A/T2, DTRL Stealth Mode Mod, custom "Texas Edition" shift knob, Sock's "Classic" bedside decals, MetalMiller custom grill emblem, 20% front tinted windows, tinted taillights, Viper alarm, ScanGauge II, Flyzeye Designs V2W Tacoma Interior LED lighting, de-mud flapped, de-badged, extra D-rings under bed bolts, WeatherTech ED floor mats, G4 Elite Fold a Cover ,Toyota bed mat, tailgate theft deterrent device and absolutely no plasti-dip!
    Whats the cost for a filter/oil change with synthetic?
    Dealer?
    Do it yourself?
    I have always used dino oil and have it done at the dealer, rotate the tires at the same time.
     
  2. DougNuts

    DougNuts New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2009
    Member:
    #13181
    Messages:
    1
    Gender:
    Male
    Georgetown, KY
    Vehicle:
    N/A
    I highly recommend leaving the factory oil in your motor until the suggested change interval and also leaving dino oil in until 10K at a minimum.

    I am a hard core synthetic oil user, but a new car needs to break in before the switch is made. There is nothing wrong with dino oil until 10-20K miles. It's not going to cause any damage, changing it too early could cause blowby.
     
  3. grivera

    grivera Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2008
    Member:
    #9474
    Messages:
    781
    Gender:
    Male
    Hanover, MD
    Vehicle:
    '08 DC SR5 4x4, Desert Sand Mica
    Rear Suspension TSB, Bilstein 5100 on all 4 corners-fronts set at 1.75". BFG A/T's @ 265/75/16; Access LE Roll-up cover; Iron Cross Tube SS Steps; Fumoto valve; WeatherTech Liners; AFE Pro-Dry; front side windows tinted 20%; TW Decal!
    Doesn't blow-by occur as a result of the piston rings not fully seating? If they don't seat by 1k-2K, the cylinders will glaze over and no amount of dino oil will help.
     
  4. Monkeysuncle

    Monkeysuncle My Cat's breath Smells like Cat Food

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2008
    Member:
    #8809
    Messages:
    1,257
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kevin
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    99 Tacoma SR5 4x4 5 speed Manual Hubs
    Diff Breather,CB thingy,GPS,Cop Shocks,Cop Breaks, old Man Emu 881's Dakar Leaf Springs and Nitro sport shocks. Deck Plate mod
    Just a question, don't kill me here but aren't these engines already broken in when new? Why I ask is I have helped on 3 rebuilds, one on an air cooled VW and one on an MG inline 4 cyl that ran out of oil and one on a 1967 Ford 289 V8 that we put into a Ford Ranger. All three times we just ran the engine till it was operating correctly at the correct temps with no leaks, shut it off, changed the oil and filter and just took it easy on it.
     
  5. Tacoma2008

    Tacoma2008 Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2009
    Member:
    #14463
    Messages:
    37
    Gender:
    Male
    Pikeville, NC
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tacoma Dble Cab
    Kenwood Sound System, Backup camera, side-steps, LED tail lights.
    Best to dump that OE oil as soon as you can. I prefer synthetic due to my experience both previous and past with engines and wear. Mama always said, "You get what you pay for!"
     
  6. LRober887

    LRober887 Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2009
    Member:
    #15524
    Messages:
    41
    Gender:
    Male
    Central Texas (Austin area)
    Vehicle:
    09 4x4 4dr 4.0L TRD Sport
    Lift, wheels, tires, exhaust, CAI
    I know this got started a while back but ......

    Interesting reading all the opinions.

    I attended a local diesel performance shops open house last summer and a Royal Purple rep was there giving demonstrations on his product. He told us that you should run a good quality (dino I believe is the term used above) multi grade oil in your vehicle until you have about 30k on it - then switch to Royal Purple!

    ????? What to do??

    Larry R
     
  7. Yota_dvl

    Yota_dvl Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2009
    Member:
    #16066
    Messages:
    364
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jesse
    Central Utah
    Vehicle:
    03' Ext cab 4x4
    SAS KIT - trail-gear 5" lift alcan springs greasable shackels gears front 410 rear 411 Kicker subs 3,000 mile drive to Alaska, 3,000 back "Mod" rear diff breather
    lol when I bought my truck it was used from the dealership- i took it home got approval from every one then went back to dealership complaining about how still smelled like smoke so i got free inside detailing done :) I aint no rookie to buying trucks plus finally got my 1st tacoma so I made and hovered over them watching what they put in my truck as I made them change ALL the fluids and put in real stuff not the cheap shit. they checked everything belts/ tires/ alignment/ tranny/ plugs as i claimed they were used how do i know they were done right you guys should put in what is right for the safety of the vehicle and my own - got it all for a small charge of FREE! since still on warrantee :D
     
  8. commtrd

    commtrd commtrd

    Joined:
    May 4, 2009
    Member:
    #16801
    Messages:
    356
    Gender:
    Male
    Corpus Christi TX
    Vehicle:
    09 Access Cab 4wd V6
    At 5000 oil gets changed with Amsoil 10-W40. Also at that time my oil filtration bypass filter housing gets installed. Then oil changes every 30,000. At 3000 miles I change the filter (toilet paper roll) and add a new quart of oil which helps keep additives current. That way I get max use out of that expensive synthetic and oil analysis always shows it to be in good condition. The oil does stay dark and that bothered me at first but not at all now. The stock filter does a very poor job of filtering micro-particulates and the bypass filter captures down to around a half a micron. Plus captures any moisture / acids etc. so it is always micro-polishing the oil. I would not run extended drain without the bypass filter. And I would not run extended drain with dyno oil either.
     
  9. RZL

    RZL buy 100% Kona coffee.

    Joined:
    May 8, 2009
    Member:
    #16986
    Messages:
    13
    Gender:
    Male
    Big Island
    Vehicle:
    '08 4x4 TRD O/R dub cab
    small kine
    first at 3k and switched to mobile 1 5w-30. seems smoothe. comes stock with a synthetic blend doesn't it??? I don't know how going from blend to straight synthetic changes a whole lot maybe somebody knows...
     
  10. sriley727

    sriley727 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2009
    Member:
    #16735
    Messages:
    148
    Gender:
    Male
    Aiken, SC
    Vehicle:
    08 Reg cab PreRunner SR5
    Bone stock
    Old engines used to need time to break in and you would need to change the oil between 500 and 1000 miles because of the the metal flakes that would accumulate in the oil during this process. However, modern engines have much tighter tolerances and they generally break in within the first 100 miles and very little metal shavings or debris is released. You don't need to change the oil until the recommended 3-5K on the late model Tacomas. This is also why thinner oil is recommended with these engines, because the tight tolerances.
     
  11. JKD

    JKD Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2009
    Member:
    #18207
    Messages:
    2,002
    Gender:
    Male
    I followed this plan with my last vehicle, and it worked out very well (it would still be going if the deer hadn't jumped in front of me...).

    Factory oil until I change the oil and filter at 1000 miles. Use regular oil.
    Change oil and filter at 3000 miles. Use regular oil.
    Change oil and filter at 6000 miles. Switch to synthetic oil.

    For the remainder of warranty, follow the applicable schedule and use synthetic oil. After warranty, periodically test oil to determine appropriate schedule. (In my last vehicle, the oil was still testing fine when I changed it every 8,000-12,000 miles.)
     
  12. edc

    edc Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 5, 2009
    Member:
    #16841
    Messages:
    166
    Gender:
    Male
    ILLINOIS
    Vehicle:
    09 tacoma trd crew cab 4x4
    rcd 4.5" lift,relentless fab front bumpers,trd cai,17x9 motometal955,flowmaster40 muffler,cobra sxt cb,k2motor headlights,kl71 kumho tires
    1k valvoline full synthetic
     
  13. JoeSchmuck

    JoeSchmuck Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 19, 2009
    Member:
    #17443
    Messages:
    257
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    Virginia
    Vehicle:
    09 PreRunner SR5 2x4 O.R., Timberline Green
    NASTA Black 3" Nerf Bars, Pop & Lock, Access LE Rollup Cover, Alpine PDX-5 Amp, Image Dynamics CS-6/CX-6 & 10" Sub (using stock Head Unit)
    My MPG was crappy prior to hitting ~1200 miles (due to break in), then it slowly moved up to 21 MPG freeway/city (mostly freeway driving). I've still got another month or so before I hit 5000 but I will am thinking about changing the oil out with some standard dyno until I hit the 5K mark. At that point the dealership will replace (included in the price of the truck) the oil and filter. After that I was thinking about replacing the oil with synthetic blend (maybe full syn) at 10K or just before winter hits, whichever comes first.

    I just find it hard to believe that an engine could be fully broken in at 500 miles. I think those folks who have put in full synthetics early are paying the price with poor mileage. Of course a truck doesn't get great mileage anyway but these days you should take it where you can get it.

    -Joe
     
  14. jandrews

    jandrews Carolina Alliance Southwest Region Ambassador

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2009
    Member:
    #18122
    Messages:
    12,249
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    '09 FourDubDee TRD OR
    A-TRUCK, Fat Kid in the Bed, Custom Pinstriping, Ported and Polished Muffler Bearing, Hi-Performance Bed Mat
    Engine's broken in before it even gets dropped into the bay. If anything is "breaking in" during the early ownership period it's the tranny and computer systems.
     
  15. JoeSchmuck

    JoeSchmuck Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 19, 2009
    Member:
    #17443
    Messages:
    257
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    Virginia
    Vehicle:
    09 PreRunner SR5 2x4 O.R., Timberline Green
    NASTA Black 3" Nerf Bars, Pop & Lock, Access LE Rollup Cover, Alpine PDX-5 Amp, Image Dynamics CS-6/CX-6 & 10" Sub (using stock Head Unit)
    So what you're saying is the piston rings are fully seated when I buy a new vehicle? or are you making a statement about Toyota engines specifically?

    I'm an oldtimer and maybe I need to change the way I think but it was my understanding (definately a fact for older engines when they were new) that you needed to break in an engine due to mainly piston rings. Sure there were bearings wearing (piston rod, crank, cam) in too but those were not the break in everyone was conserned about. If the rings were not seated properly you would have blow by and would burn oil as well.

    Now I understand tolerances for new engines have greatly improved but have they improved that much that they are considered "Broken In" upon arrival?

    Here is the info from my 2009 Owner's Manual... The picture discusses the break in period. Then on page 361 under Oil Cunsumption it states "A new engine consumes more oil". I suspect this is due to the break-in period. What I couldn't find was any reference to not changing the oil early and putting in full synthetic. But I have to believe they expected the first oil change at 5000 miles so the engine should be broken in by them.

    Curious on your thoughts...

    -Joe

    ManualBreakin.jpg
     
  16. jandrews

    jandrews Carolina Alliance Southwest Region Ambassador

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2009
    Member:
    #18122
    Messages:
    12,249
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    '09 FourDubDee TRD OR
    A-TRUCK, Fat Kid in the Bed, Custom Pinstriping, Ported and Polished Muffler Bearing, Hi-Performance Bed Mat
    I didn't ask that specifically, but the service manager I talked to at my toyo dealer said they arrive at the lot ready to be driven normally. She said if they weren't, they wouldn't let people test drive them, let alone test drive them on the interstate.

    She said the only stuff that "breaks in" on new vehicles these days is anything electrical and computerized (i.e. if something is wired poorly/incorrectly, you'll find out in the first few months) and the transmission (i.e. imperfections in the machining of the hypoid gears etc). She recommended changing the diff fluids/transfer case fluids on my truck with my first oil change for this reason. I told her I was planning to go full synthetic engine/diffs at 3k and she said fine, no problem, would probably extend the vehicle's life.

    See above. She said the process is Toyota builds the engine at the factory, runs it with break-in oil, changes all the fluids out and drops it in the truck. Of course, it's not attached to anything else in the truck when this is done, hence the tranny stuff.

    Digressing to my own personal opinion, I would think if you're going to get blow by you're going to see it during the warranty period.

    Says the same stuff in my owner's manual. Per the service manager, that's more of an owner break-in than an engine break-in...they want people to get used to the vehicle before they try anything exotic or new with it.

    That manual stuff is useless anyway without specifics. "Do not drive at extremely high speeds". How high is extremely high? Over 55? Over 70? Maxed out in 5th/6th? "Do not drive at a constant speed for extended periods". How long is extended? 8 hours? Less? More?
     
  17. commtrd

    commtrd commtrd

    Joined:
    May 4, 2009
    Member:
    #16801
    Messages:
    356
    Gender:
    Male
    Corpus Christi TX
    Vehicle:
    09 Access Cab 4wd V6
    Thanks for the tip on fluid change for manual transmission / transfer case at first change. That would be good advice and a great time to go with synthetics as well. Need to be careful in the rear differential though as they may have lubrication with special modifiers for limited-slip, if so equipped.
     
  18. jandrews

    jandrews Carolina Alliance Southwest Region Ambassador

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2009
    Member:
    #18122
    Messages:
    12,249
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    '09 FourDubDee TRD OR
    A-TRUCK, Fat Kid in the Bed, Custom Pinstriping, Ported and Polished Muffler Bearing, Hi-Performance Bed Mat
    Just a note: I have an automatic 4x4 and asked about the rear/front diffs and the transfer case along with the engine. I never asked about a manual transmission, so you'll want to check into that yourself. Just as a side note though, I can't imagine a situation when changing a fluid that needs regular changes could be a bad thing unless it's a hydraulic system. In other words, I don't technically think it's possible to change gear oils too often?

    As for the LSD additive, it doesn't matter on '09 forward because the LSD is electronic, not mechanical. It's not a gear assembly in the diff that does the LSD in 09s and later, it's brake modulation, computer controlled. 08s and earlier will need additive.
     
  19. bb609

    bb609 O.F.

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2009
    Member:
    #18509
    Messages:
    792
    Gender:
    Male
    NH
    Vehicle:
    '09 TRD Sport Access Cab
    Bilstein 5100 CO's @ 1.75" - Icon UCA's - TSB Rear w/Bilstein 5100's - Air Lift System - Flowmaster 50 Duals(RIP...back to stock for now) - Avid Offroad Arctic Bar - Avid Offroad Nerf Bars - Leer 550 Bedcover - AVS Hood Protector(RIP) - Ventshades - Yota Bed Mat - Sheepskins!!! - Weathertechs
    First change was at 3,000 and will do so religiously every 3,000 with Castrol GT 5W30 and OEM filters. This truck is #6 and I've had excellent results doing this so not changing now.
     
  20. Coastie Joe

    Coastie Joe Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2008
    Member:
    #9268
    Messages:
    331
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Andy
    Ohio
    Vehicle:
    09 TRD Off Road (Mag. Grey)
    Magnaflow exhaust, Extang Revolution Tonneau Cover, Grillcraft black upper and lower grill insert, black headlight mod, limo tint, polished K&N intake and filter kit, Poweraid Throttle body spacer, AVS Rainouts, Bed extender, 285 BFG All-Terrains, 18" KMC Rockstars, Thule Roof Rack, OME 2.75 Leaf Pack, 2.0 Fox Shocks on all 4 corners.... More to come....
    For you guys that use Amsoil... Help me out here... The truck recommends 5w30 if I am correct... I have always ran 10w 30 in everything I have ever owned... I wanna run synthetic Amsoil in my 09 Tacoma 4.0... Can you guys give me some tips?? I have 2500 miles on the motor... I am gonna wait till close to 5000 like it said for the break in... after that I am doing a complete swap...
     
To Top