1st Oil Change Yesterday. Pan plug washer glued on?

I'd love to see the UOA report.

 

I have torn down and built literally hundreds of motors.

 

Oh man, I guess I shouldn't post about changing my oil and filter at 821 miles. Let alone the rest of the drivetrain fluids (and yes I've been using 4wd and low range).

Hey OP, I was the 2nd owner of my '99 4runner, and while the maintenance records I was given by the original owner indicate he swapped the oil pan gaskets, I had 0 leaks for close to 110k miles reusing the last gasket. Now that fine vehicle is in the hands of a relative.

My oil pan gasket was similarly stuck the to pan, so I didn't bother to remove it. Wiped it and the mating surface of the plug clean, reinstalled the drain plug, cleaned the bottom surface with alcohol and hit it with a paint pen. Decided to order the aluminum oil filter housing for the next fluid change.

I'll take a sample for blackstone at that point and go from there. I'm not stretching to 10k miles for oil and filter because the accounting department wants to minimize "lifecycle costs" and regulators want reduced throughput of oil for environmental reasons.

 

I did my oil change 6 weeks ago and noticed the oil pan washer was quite stuck on my Sport. Granted...

It did not require the extra work to remove the washer...and I have a TRD skid (did not remove it to remove the washer).

A simple use of a flat screwdriver to dislodge it, was all that was required.

Maybe the oil pan bolt is being over-torqued...which is why the washer is mated so intensely to the oil pan.

 

You don’t need to remove the skid as noted in other posts. On my dads rav4 or my wife’s Camry and even when I changed the break in oil on my 22 Tacoma, the gasket was stuck, very easy to dislodge

 

Just did my first oil and filter change @ 998 miles on my TRD Sport and the drain plug gasket was stuck to the plug not the oil pan! I put it in a vise and poked it loose with a little flat screwdriver. I am very happy to report both the oil and filter were the cleanest I have ever seen for an engine break in. My Kawasaki KLR 650 and PRO MX mule had a little glitter in the filters on the first change, and back when I bought GM products that first oil change was downright scary with metal fragments.

This one looked great, I'm impressed.





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One small note on the screw driver method, if it's done too much it can make a small groove for oil to seep out

 

I'll definitely consider a softer tool...like a plastic wedge.

I think, once I start doing my own oil changes, I won't have problems with over-torquing.

 

Yes that is the point. Engineers know the best but corporate profits dictate rhe direction. Likely why the switch fo 5W-20 from 5W-30. They dont care if your engine turns 200k or 300k. But they sure dont want to replace your catalytic converters.

This is all useless without oil analysis. I do an early change on new vehicles around 1500 to 2500 miles depending when I get around to it. I sent it to blackstone and can see the elevated wear metals from break in. While this take life off the back end of the engine? Who knows. Makes me feel better getting the wear metals out. But they are definitely there.

Once I see the analysis show the elevated wear metals out I settle in to a normal interval. This is sometimes on a 2 year mark since I dont put that many miles on it. The analysis tells ne this works.

I could just take it to Jiffy Lube and use generic oil and a white no name filter with a coupon and not wipe up the spilled oil off the cover. That works for many folks too and nothing wrong with that-Im a car guy though and that is not for me.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...y-before-10k-miles-on-your-new-tacoma.707123/

 

The issue with your lab analysis is that the performing lab applys industry average reference ranges w/out a consideration to the specifics -factory oil. If they apply reference ranges of "factory oil" against your oil, I don't think your analysis would have come out as bad.
Even human newborns have lab analysis outside of normal adults ranges, but we do take as normal.

 

I've done all of my changes since getting the truck brand new and the washer get stuck each time. Plug is not being over torqued either.

During first change, it went flying somewhere and I figured it just dropped into the drain pan. Ended up finding it at the next oil change glued to the transfer case skid. So yeah, it's pretty sticky.

 

Good to know. That washer is more-than-likely made to have a proper seal.

 

Thanks; for a brand new engine I see nothing which suggests the oil was "bad at 3K", which of course echos the comments from Blackstone.

 

I saw a mobil 1 synthetic video not long ago that tested all their synthetics under severe use and saw no notable change at 10k miles. I believe it as i use to wait a year or 15k miles to change the oil in my tundra and it held the same amount as this tacoma. Changing the oil at 1000 miles is just stupidity.

 

gee whiz you Ollie, I sure am glad smart people like you are here to help the rest of us stupid people more gooder. Asshat.

 

Maybe 50 years ago changing out your oil at the first 1k miles was the best thing to do, but a lot has changed in engine manufacturing since then, plus the quality of lubricants have gotten far better whether you believe it or not. This isn't my opinion, its a fact.

 

I had a similar issue on my first oil change, I think I did it around 4-5k. I ended up having to "chisel" it off from the pan. Usually a small tap from the side has usually sufficed on all the other vehicles I have worked on (do it for a living). I ended up changing the drain plug to a fumoto valve so it makes less of a mess, so far so good. Have about 39k on her now.

 

At this point it isn't worth arguing any longer; some folks still believe the old adages of their great-grandfather who was a mechanic back in the 1930s and used paraffin based oils which would sludge up the inside of an engine in short order. Back in the day when I first started my journey into the world engines I would open up an engine run on a Pennsylvania Grade Crude (i.e. paraffin based oils) and would almost vomit at the smell of the sludge inside of the engine. Those days are long gone but the old "rules" still sway many.

 

Whatever. At this point, I’m considering posting a video of changing my oil every friggin week just to watch all the self proclaimed fact based experts loose their minds.

All I wanted to know, is if the friggin oil pan plug being so stuck was normal. Instead, I get a plethora of Karen-like jerks telling me I’m stupid.