2.4L 2RZ injector installation a tip and question

You'll probably be fine and now you see how quick it is to replace the injectors on the 3rz. I bought these guys with the same thought process you have, its way cheaper and it'll probably be just fine.
https://motorwestperformance.com/product/tr3010-4pack-l2/

 

Same here.....Ive seen those aftermarket ones last for thousands of miles...
many years....but my experience is limited to you guys observations.....

I wasn't trying to disparage you, I just wanted to let you know.....
and they have to work fairly decent....or they'd get too many returns...

I just pointed out the fact.....

I bought those blues and ran em for over a year without issue.....
I did end up replacing them eventually after a lot of people here recommended the Motorwest ones...

Thinks I paid $60~$70 for the AM's..
I was hoping the hot no restart would be cured by them....
.....it didn't...

The motorwest oem ones were $220 for the set I believe...
between the two....there was zero performance differences...
and about a year on each set....so far..

I just let you know...

Engine sensors need to be OEM all the way....the rest is fudgeable IMO...

A lot of other stuff on my truck is Napa....not really to save a lot of money...
but because I've learned to trust em....most of my suspension, ball joints, and calipers are from them...
not to save money...but I think they build a better product than oem,, using more modern materials that weren't available back then...

and who cares what everyone thinks....if your not 4x4 ing
and beating the hell out of it....dont need to spend thousands $ on every little thing...

 

I dont give a rats ass about my position...or how I;m perceived...

my ultimate win....would be for you to be successful...
then others will follow ....

A lot of times I just want to grab the truck out of someones hands...
and do it myself...

If someone lives near me....I wouldn't bat an eye to help em...
would be my pleasure..

My bad was...way back I left in the bottom o-ring in cyl #4 off the old original injector(oem)...

thereby causing #2 and #3 to slowly leak...after putting the rail back together..ugh..


I just got in a hurry.....so no matter what you use..
dont do that....always double check your work...

Another thing I learned....get a new gasket ....before you pull something apart..
reusing o-rings/gaskets on major things(steering pump)...or crush washers..
is hit or miss...

and drive it around the block a few times ....before using it to commute to work...

 

Understood/Respect OS^^^^

it’s no big deal but another thread
I learned NOT to say go AM
I said I was sorry to member that took offense to my AM statement

hell, I didn’t even mention that I CANNOT AFFORD oem injectors!

and if they fail prematurely, that’s my problem/fault
As yall stated…….‘probably fine’ is what I accept with my decision

 

Man
I went through my bucket and 2 trays of bolts
All I could find is a metric strut bolt….like 3” long
Can’t find standard 3/4 so far


I will read linked thread again
But why important to use long 3/4 bolt to extract head cups?

 

Thanks again for help/comments.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replace-fuel-injector-cups-on-3rzfe.754721/#post-28544007

Yeah I've got folders and folders of saved links for PIA procedures like this....

you guys here with those tips and tricks.......make me look good...
too bad I didnt come up with em.....mine are just war stories on what not to do...


the bullies in recent times have backed off here at least on me.....mostly in part to gratitude from others like you...

nobody likes a know-it-all.........BUT the bullies can suc raw eggs....MEAN PEOPLE SUCK...

and a lot us aren't made of money......have to weigh choices......
......I have a brandnew head and injectors....so I sleep 'petty' dang good at nite....

 

Well said.

I’m pretty sure my neighbor has one of those 3/4” thick, long threaded rod.

I’m spit balling here, but thinking……
I can use part of a home made steering wheel puller, attach this bracket with 2 bolts, then strike the bracket or kinda use bracket as a ‘slide hammer’ to extract that cup

 

Thanks for everyone’s advice
My cups so brittle, too more work than anticipated
I made 4 self tapping dremmel cuts and attached bolts on end
Tried by hand but not enough force to dig into the cups
Ended up using drill for added pressure
Every cup took 3-4 times
Drill til I heard cracking, then shop vacuum then repeat
Tech tip…..once the o-ring is visible, one can use fingers/awl to extract the remaining cup pieces

 

Ready for cups to arrive from LG

 

Yeah I tell you there are some damn smart ( desperate) people here....

too bad i'm not one of them......I just listen to them....and take note...



Guess what......getting the new ones back in is a PIA.....
so good luck there........might want to research that....
and be very careful,,,

cant help there....


IF you get it wrong.....you might have a vacuum leak....

 

Terrific.
Got few days b4 cups arrive

I wouldn’t expect anything less when delving into uncharted waters

those new cups better be more subtle than mine!

 

But your doing great.....you are an inspiration...
no doubt others will find this thread in the future...

thanks for taking the time for the detailed documentation...
this a rarely followed path here.....most have pro mechanics do this...

not having those cups delayed mine for another 2 weeks....
I never got to do this......the mexicans did mine...
I didnt even know the damn thing had cups.

 

Def will keep everyone posted……

 

1week and no shipment email from LCE for cups
I called today…..back ordered
(Despite website stating ships in 24hrs)
LCE said they ordered new lot 11/27
All they could say was ‘any day now’ will ship

Just posting why the delay

 

Yeah Ive had same problem in the past on some of the lower costs dot coms...

when I needed that fuel hose.....I ordered from yota1....so I knew I'd have in hands in 3 days...

so keep that in mine.....if you need something on the fly....

At Mcgeorge about half the time they back ordered me.....but they get their stuff in fast...
usually less than a week...but that was in past......now their suppliers are probably having issues..

I for see prices going up.....because of the need of new/alternate middlemen....
so saving $ over ones that keep in stock like Yota1 may be diminishing...

I bet Yota1 has those in stock.....but at what cost...

when the mexicans did my engine....they ordered those cups from local dealer....and it took em two weeks to get em...

If I even known about them.....I would of ordered them from LC when I pre-ordered all the other stuff to build that engine...

Sometime the fastest way to get stuff like this ....is ebay...
ebay is a PIA to its sellers....they beat you with a stick if they dont ship in 48hrs...
they'll put a hold on the funds......major prick.....

 

A firm^^

I’m just chomping at the bit to install cups/injectors.
Really interested if this solves ‘hot no start’ condition
Stay tuned

 

Got cups
Went to install and I was very hesitant
Just wouldn’t seat, without massive pressure (which I didn’t want to do)

I used this trick
Heat gun to the 4 cup ports
Then put the cups(with orings mounted) in freezer about 15mins
Lubed the head ports and cold cups with oil
They all slipped in! NP
Sorry, so excited forgot to take pix

went to plenum/intake manifold install

 

Zipped everything back up after work today
No missing/orphan bolts
Double checked all harness pigtails and hoses
Started after 2 cranks!!!!
No fuel leaks
LCE FP gauge reading 45lbs
Smooth/quiet
Getting up to temperature now

eager to see if this rectifies hot no start condition
Again, many thanks for everyone’s advice/help on this project