2.4L Turns over but no start, fuel or electrical?

I've got a 2001 2.4L Taco that won't run. It started the other day, went to crank it after sitting all night in the garage, started weakly, sputtered for about 3 seconds, then stalled. Every attempt since then the engine turns over but won't run. I have gas, and started going through my Haynes manual to troubleshoot. Below is a list of what I've done so far:
1. Checked EFI relay and fuses. All good. (However, i do get 12.5 volts even when key is in off position. Is this right?)
2. Checked Circuit Opening Relay under the dash. All good.
3. Listened closely for sound of fuel pump priming when key turned to on. No detectable sound.
4. Cracked banjo bolt on "in" side of fuel filter, turned key to 'on'. No spray of fuel when turned to on.
5. Opened up air filter housing. Squirted in some starting fluid and tried to crank. Still no run.
6. Took out the Cylinder 1 spark plug. No noticeable spark firing when i tried to crank.
7. Put an LED tester on the Coil primary circuit (Cylinder 1). Got a light with the ignition turned to ON.

So, before I start going down a rabbit hole, any ideas? I am thinking it's a bad fuel pump, but why no spark? Any other fuses I should check? Any tips or help is much appreciated.

Thank you,
Erich

 

If I remember right, if the ECM detects that there is no spark it will not energize the fuel pump circuit. So you want to start with the no spark issue.

 

Also, it sounds dumb but try swapping the EFI fuse with a different circuit's fuse of equal amperage.

 

There is a tough decision you have to make, try to diagnose it by yourself without ther proper tools and load the parts cannon and pull the trigger or get it towed somewhere where they know what they are doing. If you have an OBDII reader it might point you in the right direction.

The things that you mentioned, no spark, no fuel lead me to believe the crank position sensor could be the issue but I am not there to test the fuel pump, the crank sensor, the fuses etc. etc. Are there signs of mice or rats under the hood?

 

1. Depends on where you tested for voltage.
2. How did you test the relay?
3. The fuel pump doesn't run with the key ON unless the engine is running. The fuel pump should run with the key in the START position. You can pull the starter relay, turn the key to START and listen for the fuel pump without the sound of the engine cranking.
4. Again, fuel pump will not run without engine running. The system is designed this way for safety in case of an accident where the fuel line is ruptured.
5, 6, 7. Points to a spark problem or related problem (crank/cam sensor problem). Also check other fuses.

 

Is this to test the fuse? Just use a DVM.

 

THIS^^^

Sounds to me like a sensor issue TBH. If he sprayed starting fluid and it didn't even attempt to start it means that it is not a fuel delivery issue. Electronics are funky and the resistance value may change over night.

Engine sputtering at first and then dying is interesting however. Running weakly then dying...then no spark/fuel.

Start with basics.
1) check grounds
2) check CPS
3) Mass airflow sensor inop will cause a no crank situation as well. Not being able to read how much air coming in can cause it to not allow for spark/fuel.
4) Temp sensor on the back of the head. I know it sounds stupid but I have seen this sensor being bad causing a crank no start.
5) This thing coil pack driven I assume? Or I would suggest looking at the igniter.

Just simple things to check before throwing money at it.

 

Lol I know this is old but did you solve this? This is the only thread online I’ve found that matches what happened with my 2.4. Sputtered for a bit then died and won’t crank. Seems like it’s getting fuel up to the fuel rail.

 

Hello!! I also have this exact problem. Was it the fuel pump? I'm going over there tomorrow to try to figure this out. Any help is appreciated.

 

Yeah I'm having similar problem.......I have a 98 2.7/2.4 auto...

Just randomly wont start......use to be after sitting for an hour...

Then just today it sit for 4 hours and would just crank ....no start...

Everything on the truck is less than 3 yrs old.........motor and block just hit 19K....

All new sensors /coils/ injectors, maf, ect, iac, cam / clank sensor, ....new O2's
All new headers, cat, walker exhaust...

everything is new oem where posible........except its got its original neutral safety switch.....this is an auto a43D...

All new silicone vac hoses......on everything..

couple years no problems then couple weeks ago this all started

Ive done new plugs, new maf, battery clean and scan good...

I get no codes........I have -5 LTF trim at idle/ +10 at cruise....
Cold air intake w outside air feed....no cel's
temp comes up to 180's.....maf is just under 3 g/s
time advance 8 ~ 13

Use to be messing with bat cables I could get running again..
but really justs letting it set until it wants to fire up......hour or two later...
when it do start....no cough or stuggle.....just fires right up, like you flipped a switch.

Last time I jiggle the ecm connectors to get to fire up.......but who knows next time...do I have something going out...

I have a spare everything so I can try anything...
even a spare ecm......

everything is new on the truck.....even all the fluids and hoses.....
even my grounds are heavy duty and over kill....
coils are year old denso's....
fuel pump is 1 yr old denso.
starter is 2 yrs old....battery 1yr and tests good....starter tests good....alt tests good at speed....

When I test crank with a hose off the fuel reg....it comes pouring out...
so its not pump or its circuit thats suspect.....

Could the egr valve be stuck open?,,,,,,,at different times


Only real guess I have left is swap out ecm......

or maybe when the new motor was put in the crank sensor somehow got damaged.........I actually have a brandnew denso one in the bag....
but it is a super PIA to pull that alt bracket off to get to that on the block....
half day job on a hail marry guess....
........but I'm essentially beached right now....

 

Did this get fixed?

 

I replaced the crank sensor and the open circuit relay and it started right up

it looked to be getting fuel at crank be that was deceptive

I put off doing the crank sensor because its a PIA with it under the alt bracket
....this usually doesn't work