2.7 cam removal/re-install question

I'll add that the same shims are used on 15 different models, so I agree you'd think that they should stock shims and check and adjust them occasionally. Maybe dealers don't see a lot of 200k+ mile cars when valve clearances start to get out of spec.


13753-74210 3.00mm shim

4Runner 1996-2002
Avalon 1995-2004
Camry 1992-2006
Celica 1990-1999
Corolla 1993-1997
Highlander 2001-2011
MR2 1990-1995
Previa 1991-1997
RAV4 1996-2000
Sienna 1998-2007
Solara 1999-2008
Supra 1993-1998
T100 1993-1998
Tacoma 1995-2004
Tundra 2000-2005

 

Thanks for the info. I didn't like the idea of the Honda tool prying against the lobe. Seems fine for a motorcycle but not so much on a truck that I hope to put several hundred thousand more miles on. I'll deal with the aggravation of the plier tool.

It's sounding like I'll be removing the exhaust cam.

BTW, I have a '98 Camry(V6) with 324K miles and never touched the valve clearance. Car has been amazing. I did the valve cover gaskets on it once, it was VERY had to work on the rear cover. I recall wishing I had paid someone to do it when I was in the middle of it. Checking valve clearance on that car will be a nightmare if it uses shims.

Dalandser, that's a great video.

 

Thanks for sharing. Any issues with re installing the exhaust cam? Was it hard to press the lobes on the valves when putting it back on?

I think its because many folks get by with not checking the clearance. When a valve burns up, people blame it on, "well this thing does have 300K on it".

 

First step is TDC, set timing marks and install bolt(from valve cover) in cam gear.


Then loosen cam bearing bolts. Remove bolts and caps and roll cam right put of there. Easy access to all 8 exhaust shims. No regrets about going this direction. If I only had to make adjustments to 2 or 3 shims, it would be different.


Here's a few pics and a revised chart that shows how I'm keeping the shims straight. I'm plan to surface grind them at work tomorrow. I plan to get .013-.014" valve lash on all exhaust valves. The number that's circled on bag is what I plan to grind the shim to. The number on written on each shim is how much I will remove in order to get .014" clearance. I'll write the valve number on each shim after I grind it and it will go back in the bag with the valve number on it.

 

Reviving the thread with first a thank you for all posters as this has been helpful as i attack the job on new to me 01 2.7l Taco. Wondering for those who have done the adjustments have you ever run into a valve that was so tight you couldnt get a feeler under it to get a measurement prior to cam removal or shim removal?

 

OP here. I only messed with the valve lash the one time back nearly 8 years ago I'm happy to report that my truck now has 370k and is still running strong.

It's worth noting that I ended up adjusting valve lash due to a pinging issue I was having. Adjusting the valve lash didn't solve the pinging issue. This pinging issue ended up being build up in the intake runners. Here's a link to the thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/chasing-the-2200-rpm-ping-2-7.494905/