2.7 Injector Replacement Tips?

Found problem. Timing was off. There are 2 notches on pulley and I had only saw the outside one not the inside which is the one to use. And it almost started but still won’t. Getting fire to plugs, good compression and fuel. Checking sensors and the crankshaft one reads over 2000 ohms, spec is 1000-1400. So does a high number mean its bad?

 

After head replacement apparently can’t get timing set, truck will not start.
Question, it says set #1 piston to TDC by aligning V notch with zero mark. When I do that the #1 piston is not all the way up. So is TDC with piston all the way at top or with the V notch on zero?

 

Piston is all the way up at TDC.

Check your pulley. There should be a groove on the inner part that fits over a key on the crankshaft. This aligns the pulley so that the v-notch aligns with the 0 degree mark at TDC. If you're missing the key or it broke or the groove on the pulley is worn it won't align the pulley correctly.

 

Hey guys I know this is an old thread but I have a question. I have a 3.0 3vz. And I took out my injectors like it says buy the fuel rail but part of some of the injectors stuck in that little "cup" ( I think that's what y'all are calling it?) Anyway I have the intake manifold off and there are those 6 black plastic cups that are stuck on the intake. I happened to brake one of them ,trying to get it out because the injector grommet was stuck in there. So I need one of those little cups that mounts on the intake. Does anyone know what toyota calls those cups and what the part number is for them?

 

Those plastic cups are called insulators. Make sure you buy the Toyota brand orings. When I replaced my insulator cups I used felpro orings that came in the master gasket kit I bought when I rebuilt my engine. I broke 3 cups because the OD of the oring was barely ever so slightly larger than the OEM ones. Bought oem and they went in no problem

 

Thanks for replying.
Ok I see o ring around that insulator that your talking about. I'll go to the Toyota dealership and order those o rings and one insulator cup . I was just trying to look those up on toyotapartsdeals.com to see what it was going to cost and I couldn't get it to pull up those insulators or I really didn't know what to call them to look them up. But I usually look up the parts to get the numbers and I also make them match the price. Thanks again.

 

Not a problem.. I had a 3.0 years ago and did barely any real maintenance to it so I don't remember much other than timing belt and thermostat work lol

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful

 

That's ok man. Well I got this truck about 3 weeks ago and it's a 91 ex.cab 4x4. And other than the ugly ass camo paint job and a bad motor, it's a good straight truck. I pulled the motor a couple days ago and broke into it today. The truck had been parked for 10 years and he told me that it had a knock in the lower end when he parked it. So I dropped the tank and replaced the fuel pump and pressure washed the tank and got all the rust out. Then I bypassed the open circut relay and got the truck started. Yep, it definitely had a knock. I thought the dang thing was coming apart. But I got a look at it today. And it's the rod bearing in the #1 cylinder. It spun a bearing. So I'm hoping I can take the crank to a shop and have it turned. And get a new set of main and rod bearings and headgaskets and get this thing back on the road. I got to do it on the cheap so I'm hoping I can get the crank turned or if I have to get a crank I've seen them on eBay for about 250. And hopefully get this thing back to running for around 500 bucks. Then I'll just do other stuff like maybe a wrap or something and little vac hoses and relays and that sort of stuff when I have a little extra money.

 

Not sure if you know this but the 3.0 is notorious for over heating issues due to the original design of the head gaskets... something to watch out for

Also there's issues with the crossover pipe. Since you've got the motor out watch this video and think about it

https://youtu.be/7HQc93122a0

 

Yeah. I knew about it. I'm planning on putting steel head gaskets in it and delete the crossover pipe or wrap it either one.

 

Yeah I know everyone says put in a 3.4 and throw away the 3.0. But finding a 3.4 around here is not possible and so I'd have to get one off the internet and so it would end up costing me at least 1500 to 2000 to get another motor. That's just not possible for me. I'm going to have to fix what I have and get it all done for around 500. If it's going to be much more than that then it won't get done. So even if I have to get a new crank and bearings then I should be able to get it back together for what I can come up with.

 

I'm taking my crank to a m shop this weekend to see if they can turn it. If they can't then I'll be looking for a refurbished crank or good used crank. So put out a feeler and see if anyone has a good crank for a 3.0 they want to sale?

 

Hey man I'm all for keeping the original motor. I spent an ungodly amount of money to keep and rebuild the 2.7 4banger in my tacoma lol


https://www.car-part.com/ has crankshafts from the 3.0 i just searched ranging from 120 to 200 plus shipping

 

Thank you sir.

 

I posted this picture of the parts with part numbers for the 1996 2RZ-FE earlier in this thread. I'm not sure if it's the same or similar parts for your engine, but you can ask your Toyota dealer or look for the similar parts for your VIN on toyotapartsdeal.com.

 

9043012026 is the part # for the banjo bolt washer and you can purchase them separately from the fuel filter

 

they are called insulators part #
2329173010

 

Thanks zooms. I found them awhile back and ordered one. And I had to get a new crank cause the old one was worn too bad. But luckily I found one the next day for a hundred bucks and ordered new bearings and rings and a gasket set and got it all back together and running like a new one. All for around 350 bucks. I'm just to the 500 mile break in point and everything is going great so far. Now I just have to learn how to paint the truck and hopefully do that this summer. But as it is I got less than a grand in a 91 4x4 extended cab 5spd. That works great, so I'm pretty happy.

 

Hey guys ! Ryan here - owner of a 2003 Tacoma 2.7l 4x4

Thanks in advance for your patience if this isn't protocol for asking for help. I've a similar problem - I keep getting the dreaded "p301" CEL code for cyl #1. I've changed the spark plugs. I've changed the coils. I've not changed the wires yet (seems hard and i'm not super mechanical).

I'm thinking the next step is to check the injector o rings/ and change them, or the injector itself.

Unfortunately, I've not been able to find resources on Youtube or the internet after like 45 minutes of searching (shame on me), but I was hoping that one of you on this thread could point me in the direction of a how-to website, video tutorial, etc for changing the fuel injector.

Thanks so much all -

Ryan

 

Hey Ryan Lewis. Spark plug wires are simple to change and as far as the injectors, You'll have to remove the plenum along with the throttle body to get to the fuel rail. It's held down by a couple of nuts and rubber grommets. But just pull straight up on the fuel rail after you unplug the injectors. But make sure to loosen any bolts with clips that hold down the fuel line before I connects to the fuel rail. Some injectors may come up with the rail and some may not. Just take them out and before you put the new ones in , use fuel on all the rubber orings and push the injectors straight in on the fuel rail then makes sure they seat right as you push them back down on the intake. That's kinda a crash course, but it's not hard. Look for Toyota time with Timmy the tool man on utube. He has all kinds of videos and he explains everything very clear. Just take stuff apart and take pictures and put it back together the same way. The more work you do on it yourself the more you will feel confident. These things were made to be able to be worked on, unlike the new stuff. Well for people with little hands anyway.