2.7 Injector Replacement Tips?

You're awesome, @ToyotaTod98 - Many thanks for taking the time to thoroughly help me!

Questions -
1. Do you suggest changing the spark plug wires before moving on?
2. Do you suggest changing all (4) injectors at once since i'm "already in there"?

I'm slowly building up my mechanical confidence, but with your directions I feel ready to give her a try!! Really do appreciate you - I'll touch base after i've explored Timmy the Tool Man on YT, source the parts, and plan a day to work on it!

FYI - it is not driving horribly. It seems a bit underpowered maybe? (it always does..) and at some points idles rougher than others, but never really scares me into thinking it will die. Its generally been very reliable up until this point (190k miles)!

 

I would suggest changing the wires and also the fuel filter before you move on. You don't want to go through the trouble of changing the injectors if your filter is real bad cause it may cause the new injector to clog up and do it again. But be sure you are resetting the computer after you do something. I doubt your injector is bad, I bet it's just dirty. But for the cost of some remanufactured injectors, I would just replace all of them. Look for a company that offers many different types of injectors so that you know that you are getting them from a company that does this all the time. They usually will have a warranty on them. If you're on a tight budget, then you can order the rebuilt kit and rebuild them. It's just orings and pental filters. But for about 60 bucks for all four, I would just buy them. But do your wires and filter first. As bad as fuel is now, my truck don't run without some kind of bobble while at idle, unless I have some gas treatment in with the fuel. People need to realize how bad the fuel is right now.But I have a 2.7 that doesn't have spark plug wires and only has coil packs then I have a 2.4 with spark plug wires. So I'm assuming you are seeing the actual spark plug wires (four in a row) right on top of your motor. But you can pull off the wire (from both ends) and switch it out with another and see if the code fallows it to another cylinder. Or if it's just has the coil packs then swap a coil pack around with another one and see if the misfire fallows or stays with that cylinder. That will tell you if it's that wire( or coil pack) or not. But reset ur computer every time you switch something so you don't read the old code. This may save you from having to buy new wires or coil packs, or may save you from digging down to your injectors.

 

Many thanks! I'll start on the wires and fuel filter - getting lots of experience, and hey, its at 200k, why not start upgrading for its second life?

 

You can always replace what you want. You hear that, ( why ur in there you might as well replace this) . Which can get as expensive as you let it. If it's a 5sp and you change the oil routinely, then it could be another 100,000 before it gets to half life. I got 298,900 on mine and I haven't had to do anything major. Just make sure that you don't hear any slack in your timing chain, cause those guides will wear out. If I was going to do some job as a preventative maintenance thing then I would start looking at that. Cause when you got that taken care of you will be good for another 250000 miles. There is always gonna be some small thing that will go out, like the alternator, and sensors and clutch and starter. But each time you do something you will gain knowledge. Oh bty, are you kin to any lewis's from AR or Mississippi?

 

At 200000. It's not finished with it's first life.

 

I have bought at least 2 sets of OEM pink top injectors off Amazon for 30-40 bucks for the set of four. Cheap insurance by far. Just take your time and use some lube.

 

figured I'd post this question to this thread, since it's the one that comes up on a google search.

I've pulled my injectors for cleaning. The cleaning is done, but I'm not sure how to proceed at the moment.

Here are my cleaned injectors with new seals.


Here is my cleaned #1 injector cup (or spacer as per @DrZ pic).



The insulator (as per @DrZ pic) inside the spacer honestly looks and feels like it has a metal bushing inside it.

When the injectors came out, they were coated in RTV.


I assume the last time the injectors were out, the insulators weren't replaced (why else would you seal the injectors with RTV?), so maybe the insulators just look and feel like metal because they're that old??

Like I said, I don't know how to proceed. I've picked at the insulators a bit with a dental pick, and, like I said, they feel like metal bushings. I'm a little worried about going after them because of the risk of breaking the spacers, but maybe I'm overthinking this.

Sorry, I get like that when the thought of having to pull the head comes to mind.

 

Haven't done this but interested since I may have to tackle this one day. Didn't see anything listed in the Haynes manual I have for the truck but I may have overlooked it. In your picture it looks like maybe the RTV was substituted?
From toyota parts list, assuming this is a 96 2.7L
https://images.simplepart.com/images/parts/toyotaOEM/fullsize/a1_220175G.jpg
https://parts.toyotaofgreenville.co...722450/FUEL-INJECTION-SYSTEM/674460-2211.html

 

Well, I plucked up some courage and got them out today with the dental pick.


Seems they'd been painted, which was adding to my concerns.

Everything is back together, just waiting for the paint I sprayed under the battery tray to dry before I make a test run.

I will add that the new insulators are VERY easy to lose (ask me how I know), so do whatever you can to prevent that. I wasn't having much luck putting grease on them to keep them stuck to the injectors during install, so I just installed them in the head and snuck the injectors into them there. Not sure that's the best way, but it seems to have worked.