2.7L 2WD auto to manual conversion guideish

Parts list:

Disclaimer: These are the prices I paid your prices may vary.

R155 trans - $714 ish
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Manual-Tra...-Engine-Fits-05-15-Toyota-Tacoma/193531127521
Clutch+ flywheel -$84.79 $61.89
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...4,1442969,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993
Clutch hydraulics -$120
Reservoir
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/...LUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER/3908283/3140220160.html
Reservoir Bracket
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/...SSY--CLUTCH-RESERVOIR/3928371/3140860010.html
I used a 3/8 rubber hose from O'Reilly's about 18 inches long to connect the reservoir to the master nipple coming out of the firewall.

Top Hard-line from master to flexible hose
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/...NDER-TO-FLEXIBLE-HOSE/3933724/3148104080.html
Flexible hose
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/...Clutch-Hose--Flexible/4216899/90947A2008.html
Bottom Hard-line from flexible to slave
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/...NDER-TO-FLEXIBLE-HOSE/3978448/3148204110.html

Driveshaft-$273
https://www.lkqonline.com/2009-Toyota-Tacoma-Drive-Shaft-Parts/-l2
Manual harness-$115

This is a hard one start by looking on ebay, then call around to wrecking yards if they have any. For some reason start in the Washington area there is a lot of wrecked trucks up there.
The harness can be either 2wd or 4x4 as long as it is for your engine and is a manual harness. 4x4 harnesses have the 4x4 wiring just added on to the 2wd harness. (there will be extra plugs that will just need to be cut off or tied out of the way)

Parking brake -$159.86
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sh...=2009&ukey_category=21642&ukey_driveLine=6724

The numbers highlighted are all the parts required to assemble the parking brake

Center Console -$105
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sh...=2009&ukey_category=21641&ukey_driveLine=6724
There is both single cab and access cab consoles in this link.

Shift lever and boot -$154.18
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sh...=2009&ukey_category=21655&ukey_driveLine=6724

https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=497562&ukey_product=3989179
Rubber boot part #5828004100

Clutch pedal and brake pedal -$225

Look for them on ebay(cheaper)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2018-...H-PEDAL-ASSEMBLY-OEM-31311-04020/283852233986

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-TACOMA-2007-Manual-Brake-Pedal-Assembly-662971/233509426458

New slave cylinder -$18
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...ransmission-manual,clutch+slave+cylinder,2044

Release fork and boot -$61.82
only because my trans didn't come with them

Back up sensor -$24.99
same as the release fork my was broken when it arrived.

Pressure plate bolts -$4.26
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/...h-Pressure-Plate-Bolt/4212481/9011908079.html

Manual ECU -$154
https://www.lkqonline.com/2009-Toyota-Tacoma-Engine-Motor-Control-Module/-hnPFjOcn4O

Trans mount. -Free reused the auto mount.

So onto the actual swap.

I highly suggest starting with the parking brake as this is a PIA and trust me you don't want to be doing this the same day as the trans swap.

This is under the dash in the center under the ac box.

The parking brake mount assembly mounts above the accelerator pedal. There is no real reference point to where to drill holes causing my brake to be offset of the plunger so I had to use a long 6mm bolt and a lock nut to join the plunger and lever. There is no binding on my setup and works perfectly fine.


Next do the clutch and brake pedals.
The brake pedal assembly is a straight bolt up the same as the auto pedal. Although take the brake booster and pedal off to have access to the clutch pedal.

Now the clutch pedal. Jesus this was so frustrating.
If you don't have quality spot weld cutters invest in some.
I fought three harbor freight cutters and ended up having to resort to going through the engine side of the firewall to drill through the spot welds. My firewall looks like someone shot it with a 9mm but it is still strong as shit and I've since put solid rubber grommets and silicone to seal the holes. Take all the hydro lines and fittings off of the clutch pedal assembly and use the assembly to mark the hole for fittings to fit through and use a air saw and bur bit to make the hole fit the fittings where they poke through.


I don't have many pics of the trans swap, but if you have done a clutch change its pretty much the same. To cut the hole for the shifter just use a 4 1/2 inch hole saw.
The harness swap is pretty easy just unplug the auto harness and remove the auto ECU. Install the Manual ECU in the same spot then lay the manual harness and plug everything in.
Now in the fuse box there are three connectors and a hot 12v eyelet.

Plug these connectors in, but to get the truck to crank there is a black with yellow stripe wire in the bottom white connector that needs 12v to allow the starter to crank.
So remember that 12v hot I talked about, guess what you're going to use that B.

Take the black with yellow stripe wire like the picture, and run a jumper with and eyelet to the hot and the truck will crank. Just be aware the truck will start without the clutch depressed.

The auto trans and manual trans use the same mount and mount in the same position.


The finished project looks like factory and drives just like it. The only CEL is from on my manual harness the upstream O2 sensor plug was lopped off by the wrecking company, and I had to re-splice the connector off of my auto harness. I did't have the best solder job on it and is causing the CEL.

It can be done. The swap costed me about 3k. It is not the most difficult job to do. If you have been wanting to do this, get out there and do it. Cheaper and easier than "JuSt GeT aNoThEr TrUcK".

 

Cheaper and easier to "JuSt GeT aNoThEr TrUcK".

Nice write up.