2.7L 4WD oil pan replacement

2012 SR5 base with 4WD, 288K

I wanted to record my experience replacing the oil pan in case anyone finds this helpful.

I have been watching my oil pan for the past few years, dreading the day it will leak from the north eastern rust. This summer it finally happened. I started to notice drips on the pavement where I parked, and decided it would be best just to get it over with! I had recently helped a friend do a transmission pan RTV, which was my first RTV experience.



In the above photos you will also notice a small seep which looks like from the timing cover?? I have never noticed a real drop in oil level, so that one seems best to just leave alone.

I had to take the front differential off to replace the oil pan, and the pipes for the breathers were very rusty. A new set of pipes did not arrive on time, so I liberally coated them with woolwax and re used them.



Here it is with the differential removed.


For anyone asking, you MUST remove the differential on this engine with 4WD, no physical space otherwise.

The bolts on the oil pan were very rusted, but luckily not torqued very much. They seemed to largely be rusted onto the flange for the pan, and the winning method was taking a 9mm or even an 8mm socket on an extension and hitting it on with a hammer before used a ratchet. The crux of the whole project was three bolts in the very front of the pan. That was where the rust was the worst, and it was almost directly above the steering rack with almost no clearance. I had to wait a week until my dad was in town so I had 4 hands to get them off. Basically I had to have one person hold a too-small wrench on each bolt and the other person would try to strike it with a pry bar and hammer. Again, the power steering rack was very much in the way. After 2hrs or so we finally got all of them off! There was some rust and corrosion on the aluminum, but I was able to clean it up with a razor blade and slight use of 400P sandpaper.



The old pan looks pretty bad when taken off.



I ordered a cheap replacement on Rock Auto and used Permatex "The Right Stuff" black for the gasket. I did not use a torque wrench for the pan, just used a 1/4in ratchet and went a tiny bit more than finger tight. I did follow the prescribed tightening sequence, and there was squeeze out almost all the way around. After things cured I put on the Fumoto valve and filled it up and it has not leaked since! I coated the power steering rack very liberally with woolwax, though I expect that will be the next thing to go down there. Before I put the differential back up I sprayed woolway all over the pan and especially on the flange around the (STAINLESS STEEL) bolt heads. I would like to never have to do this job again. I hope someone finds this helpful!

 

Really impressed with how clean it looks inside once the pan waa removed. Nice work!

 

Christ I am so glad I don't live in one of those rust holes. My 2012 still looks new compared to that mess.

No offense to the OP intended.

 

None taken. I am serious about the undercoating for that reason. The particular area in question is hard to get to without removing the splash shield under the engine, so a skipped that spot a couple of times. I have gotten better about it as the years have gone on, but always seem to find new nooks and crannies. We also have a prius and a subaru impreza and each year it is more of a touch up. For some reason the truck (even though we only drive it like 2k a year) seems to rust more. I take out the spare tire and basically sit under there for like a hour trying to see all the different angles of all the different parts of each frame and body piece. Luckily (or unluckily considering the frame warranty) the frame is really solid it seems to be doing well because of the yearly treatments. I have had the car for 4 years, and it is my belief that most of the degradation happened before my ownership.

 

After having spent an entire 20 years in the Navy I know that keeping rust at bay is a hard battle. KUDOs to you!
Rust always wins eventually.