2.7L auto - throttle body and intake manifold cleaning

Thanks for the quick replies. Yes the high idle was right upon first startup after everything was put back together. I probably fudged up by adjusting the throttle cable but loosening it was the only thing that would let my rpms drop otherwise they would stay up and I kept having to turn my truck off or manually push the half moon of the throttle cable down. So essentially yes I was trying to lower my idle speed by adjusting the cable.

 

Couldn't you just put a vacuum cap on the end of that little nipple and be done with it?

 

You could, but I don't know how well those rubber caps will stand up to oil over a period of time. So I just used some silicon to be sure it wont leak

 

Sure enough..started seein smoke come up from the hood and saw that oil was all over the bottom of my header..Shoulda listened to you the first time and siliconed it. I think the valve opened somehow as opposed to the rubber cap actually failing. But if I remove the spring and silicone it that should take care of it correct?

 

Yup. Remove spring, smear silicon over valve, put back in hole, put retainer clip back, let dry and complete

 

Awesome thanks.

 

Can't remember if I posted this or not but I replaced my iac due to high idle after cleaning the throttle body and it brought my idle back to normal. The throttle body cleaner I used must have destroyed the old iac and left it stuck open or something. So yeah $200 later I had normal idle around 750 rpms again instead of 1500. Took a large vice grips to break loose two of the screws holding the iac to the tb, I had rounded them out pretty bad.

 

Yes, happened on my 2003 V6 Highlander as well. Removed everything apart, brushed and cleaned with sensor cleaner.
Replaced all rounded, damaged pan head Phillips screws with Allen Head screws.
Did opened again (bravo for allen head screws) at 300k for clean job again. Idle speed so like brand new.

 

Thank you to 043rz for the pics, one of the few 4 cyl tutorials worth anything

 

Just chiming in here (V6 owner here lol, but I still plan on using this thread as a cleaning guideline). First, the reason that those IAC screws are so easy to round out/strip is due to the fact that they're designed for JIS screwdrivers (Japanese Industrial Standard)...their heads may look standard but they can easily be damaged by a typical Phillips head screwdriver. The JIS tool will bite more securely and won't "cam out", thereby reducing the chance of stripping. Make no mistake you'll probably still need to put some elbow grease into it to crack those things loose (downward pressure helps a great deal, as does holding your TB in a bench vice), but use the right tool for the job.

Secondly, just spraying TB cleaner into the throttle body (while it's still mounted on the intake manifold) can result in contaminants flowing down past the open butterfly valve and through the opening at the bottom of the TB bore, straight into your IAC valve assembly. Best thing to do would be to remove the IAC for a thorough cleaning.

 

Can you post a closer picture of this area please? I’m about to do the same setup and this was the only tie in I wasn’t sure on

 

I know this teed is super old but I have a question about the box on the firewall /fender corner drivers side that all the emission stuff ties into , where is yours ? Can it be deleted ? Also will this sludge build up start fowling plugs out quickly ?