2 IDQ 10" or 1 JL TW5?

I have searched but wondered what you guys thought. This is actually not for my taco but for an old bronco I getting together. I have much the same space restrictions as I do in my DC taco. Marve built my box for the taco but as this a much lower budget build I thought I'd give it a go but need help choosing speakers. I have a mounting depth of about 6" but could stretch it if i really needed tol I can manage to get about 1.5ft3 out of a box and have a PDX 1000 watt amp to push whatever I choose to go with. Also opened to other suggestions if you guys have any.
thanks

 

come on... nobody?

 

If you can fit a 6.5" depth, i'd go with a FI Q 10". Awesome SQ and can get pretty damn loud for 1 10. Only needs a small box sealed or go for ported to get some loud lows. You can actually fit two of these sealed...

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficarau...0_Speakers/0030_Q/product_overview.shopscript

 

I've seen these before but never gave them much thought. After looking more closely they are pretty sweet. I looked around online and people seem to really like them and there are some insane videos out out there of them running off a PDX 1000.

Has anyone made this fit in a DC taco? I'm looking to upgrade my sub in there as well. Or are we stuck with the IDQ or JL13tw5? not that these are bad choices -just feel like if I have the power (PDX 1000) i should get a beefier sub for the taco.

thanks for the reply supersuk

 

The MAX mounting depth that will fit in your truck without removing the back plastic from the rear seats and possibly having to move the seats forward is around 5.5'' (IIRC). And that is even with shaving off a little depth from the back inside wall of your box.

To properly tune your sub, you want around twice (even 3x for some) what it calls for RMS. Sounds crazy, and really requires that you know what you are doing, but it leaves plenty of "head room" (as Mr.Marv calls it) for the sub to have dynamic responses at loud volumes.

I have heard great things about both those subs. Have you had a chance to hear either in person?

 

I spoke to Marve for a while yesterday discussing options and decided to go with the IDQ 10" in one of marve's boxes. Should sound pretty good. I'll give it a try and if i want more than that I'll look into other options at that time. I'm sure it'll make me happy at least for a couple more years!

Also been on contact with Nick at FI audio and plan to order a Fi Q 10" for the Bronco build. it's gonna be crazy in that truck.

and no - I have not heard either the IDQ or 13tw5 in a taco before.

Thanks for the input guys

 

You are wrong...twice or 3x more than what the subs rms is? RMS is realistic power...you should never exceed the rms of the sub. Your supposed to supply about 70-100% of the rms to the sub from the amp. Any more and you would damage your sub. http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/reviews/20030722/subwoofer_power.html

 

Just because the amp has wattage doesn't mean thats what it delivers to the speaker, hence my comment about proper tuning. As the link you provided explains, often times peak power is much higher than RMS (in this case RMS is 50-500 watts) . Having an amp that can deliver the extra juice when you need it for proper dynamics at high volumes is important for SQL and IF you tune correctly, no matter how powerful your amp is, you should never blow your speaker.

 

Peak power is always higher than RMS...a sub can have a rating of 300 rms @4 ohms, you'd want a amp that puts outs around the (300 rms) at 4 ohms...its max can be anywhere from 500 max or 800 max or any other number. Or you can have a larger amp that puts out say 400 rms at 4 ohm, you then can turn the gain down on the amp to try and equal 300 w rms at 4 ohms. So I don't know exactly what your tryin to explain by saying that you need a amp that give out 2x or 3x the subs rms lol. Cause that's not true.

 

I didn't say it was necessary. I implied it was ideal if properly tuned.

 

Thats not necessarilly true either tho lol. Ok, so if i have a sub thats say 500 rms @ 2ohms...your saying to have an "idealy tuned" system I'd want a amp that puts out 1000 rms @ 2ohms! lol Or even 1500 rms at 2 ohms? lol i don't think so...unless you want to buy a 800$ amplifier just to underpower it all the way down to 500w rms if it's even possible to power it down that far.

 

I am saying that if you properly tune your speaker to clip at ~95% of the max volume on your head unit, then having an amp that is capable of reliably producing more power (2-3x more power than the speaker's max RMS) than what it is tuned to output at 90%-95% during max volume will better allow for dynamic range at extremely high volume. If i remember correctly, Mr. Marv refers to this as "head room". This is more important for SQL competition and does not mean you need an $800 amp.

Make sense?

 

There's a lot more factors regarding how much power you can supply your sub. Its not like your sub is gonna see the full power of the amp all the time. Also the impedance of the sub will change with frequency, which will change the load on the amp. This is a science and a lot of people dunno what they're doin. Unless you fully understand, i'd prolly stay within the limits of the manufacturers recommendations.