2" lift for $81

I did some 265/70/17 SL toyo open country at2 on the pro wheels. Great stance with my little bit of lift, speedo is dead accurate and no extra added weight from the new tires and wheels versus my factory set. Rides and drives great and no decrease in gas mileage.

 

Believe what you like

 

Let me ask you this then. If when you crank the coils, if all you are doing is compressing the spring, how does the truck get higher? It gets higher cause the spring pushes the truck back up
I think you don't understand the concept of spring rate. What you are saying is only true if your ride height is at full shock extension.
Like I said before, if it were possible to crank your coils at ride height with the truck on the ground, you would see in real time that your springs do not compress more, it just lifts the truck higher. And it will just keep lifting the truck higher and higher until you max out your shock extension. THEN it will compress the coils more.

 

how Did this turn into shitting on liberals? Grow up.

And from a gun owning liberal to the OP, nice truck I like the lift.

 

Let me explain. And yes I do understand what spring rates/constants are preload mean. Most shock/spring assemblies have around 1 inch of preload. That is one inch regardless of weather the truck is on the ground or jacked up with wheels in the air and shocks topped out. The spring is pre-loaded 1 inch at all times. If your spring rate is 590lbf and you have 1 inch of preload you need to apply 590 lbs of weight before there is any compression of the coil. When you jack up a coilover, the total max length or stroke of the shock doesn't change obviously, all that happens is you are compressing the coil further, adding additional pre-load. For example if you crank up your coilover by 1 inch you now have one inch of additional preload. This is what gives the truck lift. If you had one inch of preload to begin with and crank up your coilovers by another inch you now have 2 inches of preload; if you were using these hypothetical 590lbf coils, you now need to apply 1180 lbs of weight before there is any compression of the coil. Because the vehicle weight has not changed, you get a lift.

Consider this: if you get an OME lift for a 3rd gen double cab Tacoma you can choose either 887 coils or 888's. Both have the same spring rate of 590lbf/in. 887 has a free length of 400mm, 888 has a free length of 405mm. So the 888's are only 0.2 inches longer but give 0.5 inches more lift. That is because they have 0.2 inches more preload than the 887s. The shock/coil assembly is the same length for both scenarios assuming you are using the same struts.

 

Cute gun case. This liberal outgrew something that small years ago. Walk-in safe for my guns. Case closed.

 

@swissrallyman yes that's true, i understand that you have to preload them more when the shock is off the truck, but like i said when the truck is on its own weight, the length of compressed spring will still be the same. The reason 888s give more lift than 887s is like you said, they are longer. Only slightly, but because of the geometry of the IFS, it will double the amount since the coilover is mounted about halfway on the lower control arm. Same reason a 1" spacer will give 2" of lift.
I play with my ride height a lot, and no matter where I set it, the length of the compressed spring with the truck on its own weight stays the same. Like I said, if you could adjust the coilovers with the truck on the ground, you would see that you are simply raising the ride height, not compressing the spring more.

 

i freaking love those wheels!

ok back on topic... what was this topic?

 

I know you deleted out everything, but I'd be curious to know how the install went, and how you like the top spacer lift. I'm considering going this route myself.

 

They look pretty good. Have you had any bottoming out of the suspension occurring

 

How would the CV angles be any different than putting a set of Kings on it?


They wouldn’t.

 

I have the Low Range Offroad kit, comes with bump-stop spacers and 1 inch diff drop too. I tried it without aftermarket UCA and the ride was terrible due to not being able to get the alignment in spec and the stock UCA would bottom out on the spring. I wouldn't recommend this kit unless purchasing a set of UCA's. After installing the SPC light racing UCAs, the ride was just like stock again. Only reason I went with a spacer lift instead of a coil over lift is because I needed a new set of tires and wanted to go down the 285/75 r16 rabbit hole before deciding on the shock system I want to save up for.

 

You can get a rough country 2" front lift for $59.00

 

Nice! I wonder if the BFG K2Os were my rubbing issues. I was rubbing on the stock UCA, LCA and cab mount at full turn and little articulation.
Enjoy your lift let the naysayers.. nay

 

Nice job OP.

 

Not the same as a top plate spacer though. Inside coil spacers are bad. Top plate spacers not so much because it keeps the factory shock the same, just spaces it from the mount instead of loading inside the coil

 

Not to correct you but 285 is the width of the tire not the hight. The hight is the aspect ratio in respect to the rim size 285/65r18 is approx 32.4 x 11.3 I’ll post a link..it is retarded i know. But why have a metric system and use inches for the wheel size

Metric and Inch Tires Sizes
While standard SAE tire sizes are easy to understand (a 35x12.50-16 tire runs 35 inches tall by 12.5 inches wide for a 16 inch wheel), many popular tires, particularly those under 35" tall, use harder to visualize metric dimensions (a 315/75R16 tire is 315 mm wide with a sidewall height that is 75% of the width for a 16 inch wheel). Converting a metric tire to inches can be done with the equation below, however, the above calculator is much easier!



[315] / [75] R [16] = [ (Tire Width x Aspect Ratio x 2) / 2550 + Wheel Diameter ] x [ Tire Width / 25.4 ] - [ Wheel Diameter ] = [35] x [12.4] - [16]




Sooo confusing

 

I think your truck looks great and I'm happy that you got exactly what you needed and wanted for your money.

One quick question, though: what kind of hit did you take on MPG after swapping to the 285's? Noticeable?

 

To the OP and others. I did a 2” spacer lift (preload) and 1” blocks in the back about 4 Year’s ago to get the lifted look and fit larger tires.. At first the ride quality didn’t bother me much although i noticed it was significantly stiffer and quite jolty over bumps. I was just stoked that the truck looked the way it did. At the time i didn’t have another 2k-5k for a proper suspension set up to throw ontop of the 2k i spent on wheels and tires.

50k later and I’m over it! Man whole covers, pot holes, speed bumps. I was going to sell it. But, instead, I’m moving up to 2.5 Coil-Overs and a full Leaf set in the back even though my truck is 2WD i want the best ride possible on road ride. And soak up some bumps on the trail. so in summary a spacer is neither a good or a bad thing. Or per haps it’s both good and bad.. it makes the truck look aggressive and at the same time the suspension and ride quality suffer.. but hey it looks cool would i do it again.. NO WAY