2000 Tacoma 2.7l P1310 comes and goes

Hello all! I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma 2.7l 4 cylinder that for the last 4 months has been giving me a rough time. Its always started sluggishly (I’ve owned it for about 5 years and always had this issue) but randomly one day died on me as I was starting it and wouldn’t fire up until I disconnected my battery. It cranks a few times, acts like it’s going to start and then just dies. Feathering the gas didn’t do anything to help. It had the code P1310 and I cleared it but it eventually within a few days came back and the no start issue came with it. I brought it into a shop and for the week and a half it was there it never had an issues so they gave the truck back to me with the assumption it might be the crank shaft sensor but nothing other then that.

Fast forward a few weeks and the truck had been running fine but eventually the problem came back but this time resetting my battery didn’t do anything and the truck wouldn’t start at all. I had it towed to a shop and it sat from Friday- Monday and started right up as soon as the tech went to diagnose it Monday. Ever since that day almost 2 months ago the truck has fired right up with no hesitation and the shop that is storing it doesn’t really now what direction to go in. Ofcourse we have the code but they don’t want to just start throwing money at parts that could be okay.

I’m at a total loss at this point as I’ve gone to the shop a handful of times (they are 2 hours from my house) let it run, driven it around the block but it just won’t die anymore! I’ve also before bringing it to them replaced the IAC valve (from the dealer) cleaned the throttle body, replaced spark plugs and seals, coil packs (non oem) cleaned the maf and put a clean filter in. Anybody have any insight? Any and all help is appreciated, thanks in advance!

 

Ok
U got one too many digits in the OBD2 code
I tried to guess
But
P0310 Is misfire for 10 cylinder engine
P1310 is ignition coil on #3
Since u have a 2000, you don’t have distributor (like me)

 

Could code be P0301?

 

I bet it is P1310
It's an IGF signal fault on Igniter #2
If there is no IGF signal, the ECM cuts fuel to the cylinders that are not reporting an IGF.

Id's start by unplugging the Igniter #2 connector and checking the Black/Red wire for 12v with key on.
Then check the IGF - Black/Yellow wire for 5v with key on.

 

TN,
Asking to learn….not argue….100% plz

the ‘coil’ mentioned (in my snip)is a coil pack?
Igniter = coil pack?

in addition, if no signal, no misfire code is thrown, just the P1310 saying 1)faulty harness(open/shorted) to #3 or the dreaded ECM?
Thanks man

 

No problem. Good that you ask. Alway nice to learn.

The first gens used one coil, for 2 different cylinders.
They aren’t coil-on-plug.

 

@ControlCar check your PMs.
I’ll send over more info.

Toyotas flow chart is convoluted.
No need to post it all here.

 

Sorry guys!! It is in fact P1310. Thanks for the responses, I’ll go through them today and see what happens! Thanks everyone!

 

Update: Edited the title and first post. Also the truck is still dying regularly. Shop had it for almost 2 months and it didn't die once.. Starting to think there is a correlation between driving it often and it dying but it has done it when it's hot and cold. I've had the truck for a couple weeks and its died a handful of times. Most of the time right when I started but once when it was idling for a minute or two then just sputtered out. code P1300 came this time.. I found a wiring diagram online for the ignition coils to the ecm but not every wire color matches so i'm slightly at a loss. Any help would be appreciated!

I did put in new spark plugs and have a new OEM crankshaft position sensor on the way which will be here tomorrow. I'm pretty sure they are both not totally related to the dying i think it will help it start better (fingers crossed) I want to test my ignition coils/ coil packs/ ecm but just not 100% of the steps to take. Thanks for any help in advance..

 

I recall needing an igniter and a fuel pump relay for a similar problem I had with a truck a long, long time ago.

 

went ahead and tested those and both seemed good. What would be your next test? I will also test them when the no start issue presents itself again

 

The black/yellow wire had 5v?

 

yeah they both had almost exactly what you had said they should have. Black/Red had 12v and Black/Yellow had 5v on both