2000 Tacoma 3.4 misfire please help!!!

So my truck threw a code for a cylinder #4 misfire, I bought all be plugs, wires, and a new coil pack. Replaced everything (today). It ran great, I put about 50 miles on it then stopped at subway. After I came back out and started driving it was obvious the issue was back and again it threw the same code. It flashed a few times then went away twice (driving to my friends house) then all of a sudden it started running normal again. What could the problem be? I didn't gap the plugs (all ngk and they only had 1 electrode on them). Any help is appreciated as I'm a struggling high school student and this is my only vehicle

 

It is highly recommended to use the dual electrode Denso plugs. I use them and the NGK wires from rockauto. No issues and very good pricing.
May have a coil pack still on the fritz

 

Any idea what would happen if I use the single electrode plugs?

 

I have heard they tend to cause misfires and generally wear quickly.
I tend to follow the pack when it comes to replacement parts. I currently am running Denso dual electrode plugs and Denso coil packs with NGK wires on a motor with 335,000 on it and it runs smooth as silk with plenty of power.

 

Alright thanks I'll order a set

 

I would check to see what cylinder is misfiring then swap coil packs to see if the misfire follows the coil. If not, maybe the spark plug.

 

It's cylinder #4, and it shouldn't as it's a brand new coil

 

Brand new can fail. Just verify. That is part of the diagnostic procedure.

 

Alright, how do you gap dual electrode plugs? I don't think my round gap tool will work

 

They should be from the factory. There is a whole thread here about that. I just threw mine in. Worked for me!

 

Ok sounds good, thanks for the help

 

Hope you get it squared away.

 

Can you discribe the rough running symptoms better?

 

It sounds terrible, it's way down on power, and it shakes very badly (like I'm about 2 gears too high)

 

Injector.
I had the pretty much same thing. Low power and shaking?
I would only get a code once in awhile. Did all the coil packs,wires etc. Then found the injector. I waited till it was doing it then went to checking.
I believe the ohms while warm is 13, whatever it is they were the same until the bad one was zero but I only think it was shorted out when warm.
Get a cheap ohm meter and YouTube how to use it.

 

Injectors were replaced a year ago, hopefully that's not the issue but I'll look into it.

 

If I remember I'll post a pic on checking them tomorrow but I'm pretty busy so may forget. It easy unless it the side you have to pull the manifold for and then you'll need gaskets but it's still pretty easy they're just two prong and you're just ohming across them best price I found on injector was five o motorsports.com

 

Alright, thanks for the advice

 

Replaced the plugs with dual electrode plugs, same problem. So test the injections, and anything else while I'm working on it?

 

You could try sealing the injector and see if the problem moves to a dif cly.
Ohming the injectors is easy but if do it when warm aka the problem is occurring mine would only do it warm.
You will need an upper plenum gasket to do the driver side