2001 super charged dbl cab 3.4l rebuild

Ok, cool,

DONT START the motor! Again Till the supercharger is fixed because YOU WILL CAUSE more damage

 

And remove the battery in case someone decides to steal the truck since your other truck was stolen

 

I will not. I’m gonna find a flatbed tow truck to take it home. Hearing it today was enough for me to hear that the motor wasn’t already jacked up and I’m satisfied with that

Ya I will do that haha, I think the battery is on its way out soon anyways, it’s pretty old.

And I also won’t be leaving the keys inside the cab of this one. Will probably do the kill switch also

 

When you get it home you can get a breaker bar type ratchet and if it has the newer belt tensioner you
can push the tensioner backwards and remove the supercharger belt, then you can spin the pulley and hear it turn.
Either way it has to come off for a rebuild,
I’m guessing it’s the black one piece cased TRD supercharger?

 

Right on l, and yes it is the black TRD SC

 

I noticed it also has some TRD exhaust manifolds that look all fancy

 

Just wanna chime in and say how jealous I am, you’ve found a gem for the deal of a lifetime! Enjoy that truck!

 

I will indeed! It’s going to be a great addition to the family, I’ve been wanting to make my 96 my play truck exclusively for a long time but it’s been my DD and work truck. Now I will be able to make the 96 all awesome it can be.

 

Anyone have leads on a trusted dealer to get a full supercharger rebuild kit through? Is that something I can hit up a dealer for?

 

Wow. You bought a worn supercharger and they threw in the sought after TRD headers and a free truck.

Toyota will not sell or recommend anything supercharger related. Because Toyota are giant pussies and dropped the supercharger program years ago. Meanwhile Ford has a twin turbo V6 and Ram just released a 700hp truck.

Anyway. It would be best to send it to one of the many repair shops. High speed lab, Jon bond, superchargers online, stiegemeier performance. there’s more I just can’t remember. Seems like every forum has their go to shop for this. Most guys here send theirs to high speed lab but they’re super backed up.

 

There has to be somewhere reputable that will sell me a rebuilt kit, I mean, I don’t really want to buy something off eBay. To rebuild this SC. And in terms of cost, I’d rather not pay someone to rebuild it either

 

You can buy a rebuild kit from many different places. But at that mileage you need new rotor pack bearings. The vast majority of people do not have the tooling to time the rotor pack to Eatons specs. Superchargers Online is the only authorized Eaton repair facility. Most of these small repair facilities had to develop their own method for keeping the bearings in place.

I mean, you can try, and if you do, please post a video revving the piss out of it. High speed lab has everything you need.

If you don’t want to do it properly it I’ll buy it from you.

 

thank you guys for all the help. I didn’t know what to look for on eBay and I really didn’t want to end up with some shitty off brand rebuild kit. But thanks for letting me know who to look for.

I have no idea right now the extent Of damage. Another reason I’m glad you guys confirmed that I shouldn't drive it in the shape it’s in..

Sounds like I should be able to manage everything other than those Rotor pack bearings, because if I understand correctly, basically I would somehow have to make my own tool to do the rotor pack bearings? What is it that makes them so difficult? I guess I will find out one way or another. Just curious and tryin to learn as much as I can before I start on my new project.

Do you say revving the shit out of it because if the rotor pack bearings are done wrong, then they fail at high rpms?

again thanks to everyone and sorry for being such a pestering question asker. I just want to learn

 

I haven’t done a rebuild before but from what I understand the rotor pack bearings are a pain.
I think Jon Bond has the original ones you need for the rotor pack. 65.00 each or for the set.
The rotors are timed with the front gears too, so they have to go one EXACTLY the same way
or they will hit each other.
The bearings in needle bearings or the rotor bearings if they seize up the whole case can spin and destroy the housing area that originally held the bearings, now that area is bigger and the new bearing will not fit tight in the hole.
There are so many issues that might be on your table and maybe your lucky and will be just a few.

It’s always better to rebuild a supercharger BEFORE things break for obvious reasons

 

look up a picture of supercharger rotors. If they are not perfectly timed together they’ll eat each other and you’ll end up spending considerably more than just getting them rebuilt. These rotors run VERY close with very minimal tolerance. We’re talking paper thin clearance in all directions. You absolutely cannot just eyeball it.

Also, a lot of the places aren’t authorized Eaton rebuild centers. They don’t have Eaton tooling to do it exactly like Eaton does. They’ve developed their own methods of reusing the bearing plate.

I can only assume that Authorized Eaton rebuild centers are sending you new rotors and bearing plates and that’s why they’re quite a bit higher. Like $1800 without shipping versus $700-1k

 

Okay that’s good to know. That would suck to go through a bunch of work to f*ck it up by having the timing off. I’m definitely not gonna rush into trying to rebuild it myself, if I do.

 

Bearing plate before rebuild. Eaton somehow seals the bearings in. Those shiny bits have to be milled down to remove bearings.


bearing plate with bearing removed. You can see the tool marks where the “ears” were Milled down.


Bearing plate with modifications to hold the bearings in. You can see the screws that are carefully placed on the ribs to keep the custom bearing “door” on.


Bearing plate rebuilt with gears pressed in place.

 

Okay, I will be looking into all of that forsure. I want to be sure that I make good use of this truck. When I get it home I’ll start taking pictures and then you guys can maybe help me see what’s going on.

 

AhhhhhhHa now it’s all making sense. Hmmm. So the gears in the last picture are what must be Reinstalled, perfectly timed? And they have to be pressed into the bearings, while maintaining perfect timing?
Okay im seeing why this would be extremely difficult to accomplish all around. damn. and that costs $1500 or so to have rebuilt by someone right??

I do have access to a Bridgeport but still, that would be difficult

 

Looking closely at this picture I can see they have even milled down the ribs a little bit. You can see just around the edges of the plate