2001 super charged dbl cab 3.4l rebuild

Have you done anything to the truck lately?

 

Unfortunately I haven’t. I’ve had my hand forced into remodeling BOTH of my bathrooms, beginning with the water heater. Long story. Lots of cash. So unfortunately it’s just waiting in the driveway. All I’ve done is clean up the interior a little bit.
I’m hoping that once I have my main bathroom finished, I can get started on the truck.

 

Okay, it’s time to begin fiddling with this supercharger and get this sucker running.
First thing I noticed. The long center bolt, over torqued, sheered the threads clean off. Great. So I get to fix that. I was able to pull it straight out, and then unscrew the threads off of the bolt

Second thing I discovered is that the pulley is loose AF! So this will be getting a complete rebuild. (Also I noticed that after I take off the belt, if I let the tensioner pulley go, it jams into the oil dipstick, is that normal for all you with SCs?)



I’m wondering how I will be able to determine if I need to get the whole rotor pack (probably HSLabs if I do) or if I just need to do all the other bearings. Or is it worth it to start from scratch with a new rotor pack and nose cone rebuild?
Any ideas are appreciated.


What size pulley should I get if I DONT add meth injection?
What size pulley should I get if I DO add meth injection?

would it be worth just pulling the whole rotor pack/nose assembly off to get rebuilt by Jon bond?

 

Looks like a helicoil to me, NOT parts of some threads, so was probably a bandaid fix so maybe the threads are stripped in the block,

Jon Bond will get it rebuilt much faster, HSLABS might be 2 or 3 months not sure if they are caught up yet.
You need a FULL rebuild with no history on this supercharger don’t even think otherwise

Start off with the stock or 2.2 pulley and go from there to see how it runs,
you should plan on
1) new fuel pump
2) clean fuel injectors and serviced
3) two step cooler plugs
4) new fuel filter

These items should be done when you are adding a supercharger,
Are you planning on doing these 4 steps?

It’s normal for the pulley to push up against the dip stick and the bracket and dip stick should be removed 1st

 

yes, i have no idea how its that bad being a CO truck (i did not read through whole thread yet to find if there are answers other than parts i skimmed thru)
mine not nearly this bad other than a couple spots on the surface by the cat, but did have the protective rubbercoat sprayed on it until it fell off 2 decades later
cheezy factory paint aint worth crap so far the new extreme chassis paint i have completed (still a working project) on mine seems holding up well after i crawled under today to see what salt i picked up on 300 miles driving through it this weekend after the snowstorm... its covered with a white glaze lol. unfortunately no pics, it was too cold under and my tShirt was getting soaked from rinsing it off

 

Here is a video, this is how I pulled the bolt out, without turning. You think it was already helicoiled? The reason I wouldn’t think that it was is because this truck was supercharged from the dealership it was bought from. And it was never serviced by the Original owner, who I bought it from. So unless the dealership biffed when installing and put in a helicoil, my assumption was that it was over torqued and eventually sheered the threads.

as for the rebuild, My initial plan was full rebuild, as I want to be starting from ‘new’, so that will be the route I go. For sure. I guess I am just curious what I might be looking for when I pull out the rotors to determine their condition.

Will probably do a new fuel pump. Is Stock good? Or is there a more powerful one that’s better for SC?

Where is a good place to send injectors for service? I’ve seen it around here but I can’t remember where. (I also want to do my 96 when I do a gasket job, but I need this one running first)

two step plugs as in the two electrodes? Yes.

and fuel filter yes.

good to know with the dip stick. I didn’t let sit there, but I noticed it and I put the belt back on. but that’s good to know I will take off the dipstick before I take off the SC.

Do I need to buy a new pulley since it’s loose? Or is that a new bearing I can press in?

thank is for the help, this is all new to me, and I expect to be learning a lot. I wouldn’t have bought a supercharger to install because I have so much to learn, but this deal was too good to pass on so now I’m forcing myself into learning what the hell is going on with boosted engines.

 

Well, it was in Bailey, CO for a lot of its life and they do salt the roads up there. They do a gravel/salt mix up there from what I’ve been told (as opposed to the magnesium chloride/salt brine liquid mixture that they do in most of state). He would’ve driven those roads for a lot of the trucks life.

When the weather gets better I’m gonna do a full frame revamp. That will be fun. I haven’t found anywhere that I can put a hammer through so that’s a plus. I think the dealership did a shotty frame paint job and that’s what I see flaking off in areas, or it’s just the shotty factory paint

but the AC drip area is suspect, need to reroute away from the frame. and a couple other places I cant hit with a hammer until the bed and (probably) cab are removed for grinding and any welding or spot repairs.
Still a good deal, but it needs a little bit of TLC

 

That’s how a heilcoil works, it’s like a steel spring and that wrapped around the threads that is installed into the block.

There is a difference between spring steel and the block cast iron metal.
99 percent it’s a heilcoil.


No, the DENSO two step cooler plugs are completely different than the stock plugs.

Motor west in California for injectors

What bearing is loose?

 

ohhhh I’ve been calling something else by the wrong name then. I was envisioning drilling out the stripped hole bigger, tapping it bigger, getting a sleeve that has the proper internal threads for the bolt and the matching thread to the new hole.

What’s your advice on that repair?

Okay, I’ve always got the dual prong for my 96 since that’s what the timing cover tells me. But I will get those denso cooler plugs for this

I’ve seen stripped out spark plug threads repaired that way^^ with what I’ve called a helicoil but is most definitely not. Idk where to get what I’m talking about, I’m gonna have someone machine me one probably unless there is somewhere that sells them.

When I pulled off the belt briefly, and while holding the tensioner back, I could easily wobble the pulley. I’m wondering if there is a bearing that can be pressed out of the pulley or if I need to buy a whole new pulley? I’ll take a video when I get back in there

 

A ‘time-sert’ is what I was calling a helicoil.
https://www.timesert.com/

 

Looking at the photo and video, I'm not convinced that's a heli-coil that came out. Not bulky enough and it is smooth on the outside. Looks more like an over torqued bolt that pulled the threads.

@96BlueTacos You are envisioning it right.

 

The heilcoil is made of spring steel,

A Time-Sertis a complete sleeve with threads on the outside to thread into the hole and a stop tab to keep the sleeve from spinning inside the hole and a better option.

But have someone look at your situation before you do anything.

Your better to buy a complete new tensioner that comes with the new pulley and a new spring, new bearings s for 50.00,

Check the extra thread and see if it’s made like a spring, spring steel

 

That is what my first thought was. Either way I’m probably gonna use a time sert

Anyone know the threading of that bolt? M10x1.25?

yes and I’ve been calling timeserts helicoils forever haha oops. I would think that a time sert would be a better option but a little bit more expensive that helicoils.


Whichever it was, I have to fix it one way or another before I can bolt the super charger in properly. I just wonder how long PO was running with that center bolt loose.

 

I think this is the bolt, BUT NOT 100 PERCENT SURE

 

Well I pulled the little thread bit apart and it was pretty fragile, only stretched for a second then snapped, then pinching the smaller rings together, they snap. So I’m thinking threads.

That bolt goes into aluminum right? Or does it go into the iron? Only 13 lbs torque that’s gotta be an aluminum torque number.

 

Removing all of that seems real major overkill! And probably mucho expensive, I was quoted roughly 10grand to do that much lol
But that shop may have been full of it idk I kept on walking
It wouldn't hurt to probe inside the frame with a magnet and see if any loose paint coating gets pulled out

 

Ok, maybe it’s threads then,

The block is cast iron
The heads are aluminum

 

I would do it my self if I went about the whole repair/recoat of the frame. I’ll probably start with the bed area and see how that goes. That’s where most of the worst rust is. Which compared to some of the stuff I see, is easily manageable. I just dont like rust

 

It's always nice to have the proper equipment and tools!
For Over a year now I still cannot find a good way to get my truck up high enough so that I can easily walk under it on my knees, that would make it much less taxing on me

 

so that bolt goes in The block then? The time serts have head bolt kits and other kits I assume because of the length

oh ya! a lift would make that much easier, I’d have to just cirque du solei maneuver around on the ground with stands