2001 throwing p0325 code

2001 Tacoma 121k auto trans 2wd v6

My Tacoma is throwing the p0325 code.

I do not notice any difference in performance tho. I have read that this code can throw the truck into limp mode but I haven’t experienced anything of the sort yet. I have read how much of a hassle this is to replace harness and sensors but wanted to get some more feedback from you guys before I jump the gun on this


Also if anyone can list all the parts I’ll need to do this job right that would be helpful

 

Check your knock sensor.

 

Yes I’m aware the code is for the knock sensor

 

... Yes, but what he is saying is: Get an FSM (you can easily find a link to a pdf digital copy on here or elsewhere) and follow the steps within that to inspect the knock sensor.

Yes- it's work. If you don't like it, I'm sure you can find a mechanic to take your money.

 

Wouldn’t the engine be running quite poorly if it was indeed a faulty knock sensor? Because the engine seems to be running fine

 

The knock sensor is detecting if something is going wrong in the process. A faulty sensor is not going to cause a knock - a faulty sensor would just report bad data to the ecu.

 

Ok. Could you help to list all the parts other than sensor/harness I would need to replace sensors and wiring harness
Like what gaskets or sealer or any thing else I need for this job?

Can you confirm these are correct parts needed

82219-0C010 - wire sensor
17176-0P010 - Air Surge Gasket
17177-AD010 - Intake Manifold Gasket
17178-AD010 - Intake Manifold Gasket
16341-AD010 - Water out Gasket (two ofthese)

$10 Lexus 96761-35031, Engine Coolant Pipe O-Ring

96761-35031 - O-ring (two of these)
00272-SLLC2 - Super Long Life Coolant

 

I think most folks here are willing to help guide you, but I'm certainly not going to do your homework for you.

Did you find a copy of the FSM? It details exactly what you need to remove (and replace) to inspect the knock sensor. Although it does mention that you need to drain the coolant, I think you can get away without that.

At a minimum, you'll need to remove the throttle body and upper and lower intake manifolds (if you have a v6- you never mentioned what engine you have). So throttle body, and two intake gaskets.

You really should take your time and use the part diagrams and FSM to understand this job before hoping that someone will just spoon-feed you.

You can check out some of the Timmy The Toolman videos- specifically, either the valve gasket replacement or fuel injector replacement, do see detailed teardowns on the throttle body and intake.

 

is there coolant running through the intake manifold?

 

Through the IAC (when you remove the TB).

 

You sure? Many intake manifolds will pass coolant from one head to the other. I don't want the OP to take off his manifold and get coolant everywhere.

 

Very sure. Outside of my personal experience having removed the intake manifolds on a handful of Tacomas, here are the relevant FSM diagrams and call-outs.

Edit - I'll add, that I don't think that removing them or draining fluid is necessary.

 

What engine do you have? You'll want to think about the fuel rail while you're down there. You have to remove it before the intake. There are 6 12mm aluminum crush washers for the fuel rails. Also, the injector caps might stick to the intake ports and you'll have to break them to get 'em out. They easily slip out of the fuel rail. Might want to get orings for the injectors too

 

I have the v6

 

Knock sensors/harness exposed after all 3 sections of the intake are removed. Note the open coolant passages @CodeSeven mentioned (rectangles) .
In most cases it's the harness/connectors that have deteriorated from heat. While in there it would be silly to not reseal the "water bypass tube", the two bolt connection to the block. It just uses coolant rated RTV sealant, no gasket or o-ring. Also the perfect time to check valve clearance.

 

@Dirty Pool Thanks for the additional info. I incorrectly assumed that the knock sensors were accessible without removing the 3rd portion of the intake manifold.

 

2003 3.4L obviously v6. Have had several issues with a P0420 and now a P0325. Had timing belt done not long ago due to sounds or bearing going out on pump or belt tensioner. Can the knock sensor loom get in the way and pinched during the timing belt job? Also, P0420 code. What's the proper running volts on both O2 sensor? Please dear God tell me someone can truly state the range or operative voltage... Bench tested the O2 sensors and have tried multiple methods of proving them bad. What's the deal with these things?

 

I think you should open your own thread.

You have a different issue than the OP on this thread.

The proper specs for the O2 sensors are in the FSM. You can find a digital copy fairly easily. The "deal with these things" is- get Denso / OEM sensors- you're just throwing money way otherwise.

 

Not sure about the knock sensor harness, I wouldn't think so as the intake doesn't have to come off to do the timing belt.

AFR (upstream) sensor voltage is calculated within the PCM but in OE scan data it should fluctuate between 3.1 and 3.5V, lower voltage is rich, higher voltage is lean (in generic scan data it may display as a standard O2 sensor (0-1V)).
The downstream sensor operating range is 0-1v (below 0.5v is lean, above 0.5v is rich) but if the catyletic converter is functioning properly and warmed up it should remain at a pretty stable voltage on the rich side >0.5v.
If the downstream is switching (rich/lean) near the same rate as the upstream you either have an exhaust leak near or upstream of the sensor or the converter is no longer functioning properly and you will get a P0420.

 

Dm93, thanks a bunch. Been asking for that exact data.!.!
Andy01DblCabTacoma, unsure what an "fsm" is. Would love better detail then simple a acronym for a term or object. Also unfamiliar with my own thread?.?. I don't really think I have ever joined an online group or forum so I am unaware of lingo and proper usages. Sorry if I have made an erroneous mistake.