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2002 extended cab, remove bed.

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by joea99, Apr 23, 2019.

  1. Apr 23, 2019 at 10:13 AM
    #1
    joea99

    joea99 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have some rust in the passenger side forward corner of the bed. I "fixed" it last year when it was much smaller and it looked good. Until this spring. It has grown.

    Seems to me the best way to do this (got some over wheel well also) is to remove the bed and deal with it properly, from both sides. I should say I am also getting an occasional evap code so may need to get at the canister.

    Question is, how to remove/replace the bed with the least hassle.
     
  2. Apr 23, 2019 at 10:32 AM
    #2
    joea99

    joea99 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No warp to worry about?
     
  3. Apr 23, 2019 at 11:09 AM
    #3
    wingnutj468

    wingnutj468 Well-Known Member

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    It’s a good idea to take the mudflaps/ brackets off first. Also, you can stand it up on the front side.
     
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  4. Apr 23, 2019 at 11:40 AM
    #4
    joea99

    joea99 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ac
    That's nice to know. Front side is where some of the rust is.
     
  5. Apr 23, 2019 at 1:05 PM
    #5
    wingnutj468

    wingnutj468 Well-Known Member

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    Check out Rustblast from KBS coatings. I used to on my frame swap project and was thoroughly impressed.
     
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  6. Apr 23, 2019 at 1:35 PM
    #6
    joea99

    joea99 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have used similar stuff in the past and it seemed to work.

    I've run out so may give it a try.
     
  7. Apr 23, 2019 at 1:44 PM
    #7
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    Flux Capacitor
    Should be six bolts under the bed, and the fuel filler assembly. I removed it with two people.

    Very difficult with two people, four should be perfect but can be done with two. An engine hoist and driving the truck forward should work too.
     
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  8. Apr 23, 2019 at 2:40 PM
    #8
    rogerman

    rogerman Well-Known Member

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    I know I will have to do this soon, What do do if the bolts are rusty and start spinning inside?
     
  9. Apr 23, 2019 at 2:44 PM
    #9
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 Well-Known Member

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    Cut the bolt head off?

    :notsure:
     
  10. Apr 23, 2019 at 4:37 PM
    #10
    wingnutj468

    wingnutj468 Well-Known Member

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    More than likely, the bolts that are too rusty to in screw will break off. If that happens, just drill out and re-tap. It gives you an excuse to buy a nice metric tap and die set. Also, try spraying the rusty ones down with some pb parts breaker the night before.
     
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  11. Apr 23, 2019 at 5:13 PM
    #11
    cruisedon66

    cruisedon66 Well-Known Member

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    Defrost mirrors, compass/temp display rear view mirror, rear wiper on camper shell, trans.cooler.
    I just pulled mine off last week. A 2003 extra cab.
    There are 6 nuts and bolts. 2 of the bolts have a tang welded to them so they don't spin. The other four are easy to get to.
    There was some rust starting under the bed.
    As well as dust that needed to be washed off the inside up in the wheel walls
     
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  12. Apr 23, 2019 at 5:14 PM
    #12
    rogerman

    rogerman Well-Known Member

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    What do we do in the case that those tangs rust off and spin freely?
     
  13. Apr 23, 2019 at 7:26 PM
    #13
    cruisedon66

    cruisedon66 Well-Known Member

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    Defrost mirrors, compass/temp display rear view mirror, rear wiper on camper shell, trans.cooler.
    I think you can still get to them fairly easily.
    The bed attachment points are: where the 1 by wood is mounted to hold the gas tank up temporarily. The middle one is to the right of the shock mount. The last one is forward of the the rear bumper.

    IMG_20190402_180717598_HDR.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2019
    GQ7227 and 02-5Lug like this.
  14. Sep 1, 2019 at 4:59 AM
    #14
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    is it best to use a hand ratchet socket for these bolts?
    i also notice the wiring harness clips to the rear lights are attached in the back somewhere, how easy is it to remove that without breaking
     
  15. Sep 1, 2019 at 7:02 AM
    #15
    Wsidr1

    Wsidr1 Well-Known Member

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    If you have an air impact that you can set to give slow hits with 80lbs or so pressure), I seem to have fewer break with that method than when I use a ratchet. That vibration action really helps, esp if you pre-soaked the bolts (50/50 acetone-TA fluid, Kroil, or PB Blaster). If you don't have any impact tools, and you have help, it even will help some to have someone hit the socket/ratchet/??? with a hammer to add some vibration. If you just grab it and apply steady torque, you usually break a badly rusted bolt.

    As for wire harness clips, usually if you can pry one tab (side) out a bit first, by kind of tilting the clip, you can save them. I assume you have a clip removal tool, but if not you should get one. Even with the tool, if you kind of tilt it some, it gives a little more space for that first side to start coming out, then the second also has more space. Hard to describe, but just go slow and give it a little angle and you'll see what I mean. If they are still pliable, even if they get a little mangled, they usually still hold when re-used.

    Also, anytime I go the savage yard, I usually scrounge trim panel clips(there's a million diff kinds), wire harness clips, vacuum hose, 10-12mm bolts (most sizes likely to twist off) constant pressure style hose clamps, etc because on old vehicles, they are gonna break.
     
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  16. Sep 1, 2019 at 7:14 AM
    #16
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    i just rented a very heavy air compressor for the week, i think it weighs 300lbs

    I don't really have a good selection of 'speciality' tools since I have really had to do ZERO abnormal maintenance to any personal vehicles in 15-25 years now, that old '79 Corolla I had to just let it run itself into the ground when it was nearing 25 years of age. the only maintenance I recall doing on that is changing the oil in the street once a year and a top side fuel & air filter.

    these local body shop jokers started quoting me almost 10 grand to get my truck the proper underbody cleaning and maintenance it needs and I just said no no no...
     
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  17. Sep 1, 2019 at 8:41 AM
    #17
    cruisedon66

    cruisedon66 Well-Known Member

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    Near St. Louis
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    Defrost mirrors, compass/temp display rear view mirror, rear wiper on camper shell, trans.cooler.
    Even though I live in the land of salted roads, my bed bolts were very lose.
    I used a hand ratchet.
    Some wiring harness clips broke from age.
    Some I was able to reuse or buy replacements. The clips I bought were the
    "T" style shape. The T has a push clip that fit into the frame hole. Then the wire harness is zip tied to the clip on the top of the "T"
     
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  18. Sep 1, 2019 at 7:56 PM
    #18
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...

    i am thinking that since the 4 bolts on the lower fuel shield/skid were not hard to take out after some good Blaster soaking while ratcheting them out the bed bolts should be similar.
    But maybe the torque on them is a bit more than the shield was?
     

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