2002 Tacoma Rust Belt Restoration

The camshaft plugs on both sides were leaking so I had to go back in to redo the valve cover gasket job. I tossed on some FIPG last time but it seems that the rubber was no good anymore. After getting a new set of cam plugs you could feel the obvious difference between the old and new. Given that I was going back in I figured I would paint the intake and valve covers. Turned out pretty good, but was a fair amount of work to clean them up prior to painting. The valves and everything else inside looked pretty decent for almost 250,000 miles. I also got a glimpse at the shrapnel from the spark plug thread giving way. Cleaned out what I could while it was open.

 

I’m afraid e is too late since it’s leaking diff oil after I drive it

 

How Did you replace the chrome part of the bumper?

 

The bumper is held on by two brackets that connect to the frame. You disconnect the bumper from the brackets to remove and then the bumper is three separate pieces held together by small bolts and plastic clips. Many of the bolts were totally rusted out and broke upon removal. You disconnect everything and then swap in a new piece of chrome. It's a pretty easy job as long as the rust doesn't cause you as many issues as it did for me.

 

Any chance you remember the size of the bolts? TIA!

 

I don't.

 

So, about my two month exhaust leak saga...

I took my truck to a local mechanic/car enthusiast and he said he could fix the busted exhaust for me. I asked him to put in some new pipe between the cat and muffler. Well he just decided to weld it back together. Figured whatever it should be fine. Wrong. Got a P0420 code now. I did also have that code come up briefly following my spark plug failure. Maybe its related to that. I test for exhaust leaks and they're present so I decide to take it into a real mechanic in town to replace the actual rusting exhaust between the muffler and rear cat and also replace the rear O2 sensor. I have them do that and I'm still getting the P0420 code. I check for leaks and sure enough I have multiple leaks. These guys covered their welds with JB weld. Strange. I try getting my money back and the guy just keeps telling me to bring it back for repair but at this point I felt like they still wouldn't fix the problem. I get in touch with the muffler guy in town. The guy I should've went to right away. Back-alley, cash-only, smoking cigs kind of guy. Finds the leak and gets it welded up. 300 miles later still no P0420 code. So that's how I learned about how you should go straight to "the muffler guy" for exhaust repair.

 

Hit 250,000 miles the other day. Been having this bearing noise get worse and worse towards the front of the engine over the past few months. From what I could gather, the evidence lead to it being the water pump. On my way home from work I started hearing some new noises and it sparked my fear. Knowing that the timing belt was replaced 75,000 miles ago and that it seemed like the water pumped was skipped during this repair I figured it was time to make it happen. Debated doing the work myself but feared fighting some of the belt tensioning bolts, crank shaft bolts, timing belt etc. Definitely paying to not have to deal with the struggle as much as I would've liked to have done it all myself and been able to spend more on higher end parts. Ended up taking it to a local shop with what seems like a good reputation. Got the water pump, timing belt, tensioner, crank/cam seals, thermostat, and belts. Also decided to toss in a new radiator and hoses as they were also original at 250,000 miles. Engine went from running at ~205 F to ~185 F. The mechanic saved the water pump to show how much it wiggled and made noise. Fingers crossed I can get a break from the mechanic bills.

 

Have been hearing some clunking and grinding going on. Figured I would swap out the end links, bushings and brackets for the stabilizer bar to at least see if that was the issue and given the truck had some pretty wicked body roll at times and crusty bushings. Unfortunately that didn't fix the clunking, but it definitely improved the body roll. Cleaned up the stabilizer bar with some wire wheeling and paint while off. Had to cut off the end link nuts with an angle grinder because of the rust. That totally sucked but got it off. Took the truck in to resolve the clunk and found that my front passenger wheel bearing was shot. Lots of play in the wheel so that got swapped out. Thought about doing that job for a second. No thanks, too much work and specialty tools

Also cleaned up my brake drums. Should've painted them before installing last year but didn't and they began to rust fast. So I found the time to take them off, sand/wire wheel and prime/paint. Back to looking fresh.

 

Well I ended up selling the truck yesterday. I loved the truck but the body rust and the crappy paint drove me nuts. Was going to get it all repaired but in the end it made more sense to just try to find a Tacoma from somewhere outside the rust belt. Finally found a good one but it was all the way in Washington. Bought a flight out there and drove the 1,900 miles back home. The new truck is a 2004 with 160,000 miles and NO RUST.

 

Congrats on the new to you truck!