2002 Toyota Tacoma 2wd Manual Transmission 2.4L

Hi, I have recently purchased two tacomas. These are the first Toyota-made cars I have owned. One has a rotted frame and a perfect body and engine, yet the other one, the frame is perfect, and the body is entirely shot. I have been working on these for the last three months swapping any parts I can to fix common issues found on the one with the rotted frame. I have changed the brake booster and new brake lines from the firewall to the rear wheel cylinders: brand new master cylinder and brand new charcoal canister. I have bled the brakes for countless hours, yet the air is still in the system. Do you have any ideas on how to fix this? I bleed the brakes with the cap off and continuously poured fluid in it with a gravity-fill bottle. I start from the passenger rear to the driver rear, then onto the passenger front, and finally to the front. No check engine lights after replacing the booster, and the engine still revs after five continuous braking. How do I fix this? I have kits on the way to reveal brake fluid leaks, and also I have a crap ton of smoke leak detection accessories to find a vacuum leak, yet I cant find one vacuum leak.

 

Scotty swears by these .....although little pricey....

$314 Phoenix Systems (2002HD-B) Heavy Duty Reverse Brake & Clutch Bleeder, One Person Bleeder, Cast Aluminum

https://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Syst...e60-4065-bf82-3d74c319fd2d&pd_rd_i=B00GRV7TY6

$53 Phoenix Systems (2104-B) V-5 Reverse Brake Bleeder, Light Duty One Person, Fits all makes and models

Amazon.com: Phoenix Systems (2104-B) V-5 Reverse Brake Bleeder, Light Duty One Person, Fits all makes and models : Automotive

 

Man, on my rebuild for the kid, brake lines showing cords/fluid black
RR’d lines
Bc I HATE bleeding brakes…..
I bought some $40 hand bleeder. Worked great
Did the exact bleed process you did.
I was still getting bubbles after all dark fluid removed. After $30 of brake fluid, I guessed that air was coming from the zert fittings when they were loose when using the hand bleeder. This occurred on all 4 corners. On the front, I used the hand pump and then gravity bled.
The brake feel is a little better after this project. Truck still stops well.
But was still concerned about the amount of fluid I went thru and the bubbles that kept coming out.

eager to see what others post about similar issues

BTW prior owner RR’d brake MC (fairly new)

 

Couple years ago I bought a reman oem master from Napa....
ordered it.....tooke em a couple weeks to get it...

and it leaked right out of the box.....


And there's the return line off the Lspv valve.....
if that line is completely drained/dry it takes a little bit more to completely flush that out....

And sometimes that valve is completely corroded out inside preventing flushing...

old brake fluid is insidious.....it can cause a lot of hidden damage...

 

I appreciate all your replys, thank you. i bled them again and the check engine light came on for a p0171 code I checked for vaccumn leaks yet cant find one. Any advice?

 

IMO fuel related, unless you forgot to connect booster vacuum hose

https://www.engine-codes.com/p0171_toyota.html

 

Hi, so the brakes are basically bled now. However, every time I hit the brakes it increases rpm and beings to have a rough idle. Any Ideas? I found one vacuum leak, when I replaced the box I must have snagged the filler neck at just the right angle where one of the vacuum lines rotted and broke off. Yet there is still a problem somewhere and honestly I am very confused on what to look for next. It pops a p0171 code after about ten minutes of continuously hitting the brakes. When you let go of the brakes and try to hit them again it goes straight to the floor. Also once you take your foot of the brakes it goes back down to idle and starts to get rough.

 

What I'd do is block the vac line going to the booster and see if that's where your leaking...

your booster has an internal rubber baffle that eventually deteriorates.

and also the valve going into the booster eventually fails.


On these old trucks....a lot of you will eventually need a smoke machine to chase leaks down that are bound to happen....eventually.....

nothing last forever...

 

I’m now searching/investigating this LSPV in rear tht O’Silver mentioned
Jeez
Very possible that I only have front brake bias…..from the prior owner’s front pads that I rr-d when I rr-d front bearings. Both front/rear pads done recently b4 I got taco. Rear drum pads looked brand new….no wear…… fronts were brand new, but 40% wear. The top of all 4 pads had a lip of material peeling off. I thought were incorrect pads installed, but after the initial searches of this LSPV, I’m thinking this is the reason of weird front pad wear
3rd project on the list

Gonna investigate more, research a manual brake bias valve install
Then post a thread

 

Making brake Lines and LSPV bypass Toyota Tacoma - YouTube

 

Watched
More explanation than installation of bypass

guy saying to put bypass under hood?
(He didn’t install manual proportion valve in vid)
Easier to install under bed?

 

TOYOTA LSPV DELETE / WILWOOD PROPORTIONING VALVE INSTALL - YouTube

Man you guys got me batting a 1000 today.......I should quit and go to bed while I'm on top........

thanks
everyone for the mental exercise...

I guess the dementia is holding off today....
or low on THC.....

Woo Hoo....

 

On It^^

 

Thanks OS

I was struggling with ‘what to do’ with the un-needed return line
Appears owner capped the port near MC

IMO would be easier to mount under bed
??

 

IF you lived in 'SALT WORLD' I would for sure not mount in the rear....

otherwise I would not give it a second thought.....

I dont like that return line.....it just keeps recirculating old crap fluid from the back...
over and over and over....

My bed loads never change....so it would be a no brainer to go the manual one when/if my LSPV goes south...

I live in the desert south......so rear would be for me....
and way simpler to fab....


And I apologize for hijacking this thread....an idiot and a moron....

 

A firm tht hyjack thought^^^

 

Tell u what OS
Once I ‘really’ look at that LSPV on my taco, OK to send you a PM with some ‘to the point’ questions?

this taco is a Texas truck
No rust to speak of

 

Just start your own thread......sometimes .....a lot of times...I draw a blank

these guys here rarely disappoint ....

the 1st gens here love their trucks....they contain a wealth of knowledge.

Again I'm just a parrot.....I'm guilty of having good recall...

and spending a butt load of money replacing most everything that can replace....

I'll never forget those rusty needle bearings.....in two of the universal joints when I pulled them...
red dust.......no needles left in one of them....

Doesn't seem like most here don't care about my warnings....and thats okay....

let em walk.....

 

I Abide OS.

a firm.