2003 Auto to Manual swap

Great progress. I do have a manual ECU 3.4l v6 4x4 for a 2003 in MA. purchased the truck for the 5spd parts, but the ecu wont work in my 2001 if ypur interested let me know!

 

Definitely interested! I’ll send you a PM.

 

I have the two remaining top ones on the passenger side. I can see them pretty easily, but I wanted to let them soak overnight. Is one long extension better (torque wise) than a couple of shorter one linked together?

 

Yes, correct. Could try the shorties first to see if you can break it free, but if its just too much, get a single one rather than fighting it and possibly breaking something or hurting yourself. The right tool for the job will make all the difference.

 

Ok. I got all the bellhousing bolts loose. I also removed the exhaust to give me a little more room up in there. All that remains (I think) is removing the 4WD shifter (from inside truck) and the I have to cut the trans lines. I tried everything to remove them but they won’t budge.

 

Good progress today. Got the trans/TC out. Also got the converter out.

 

I took some photos to compare the auto to manual driveshafts and crossmember. It looks like the crossmembers are the same.

 

The t/c that I took out of my truck had about 100K fewer miles on it than the one attached to the manual trans I bought. Is it worth swapping the two or just leave well enough alone?

 

The transfer case input shaft coupling on the automatic trans TC is slightly shorter than the manual trans TC. They both might still work though, that’s been something I’ve been wondering about as well. I assume they’re both push button transfer cases, not a push button and a j-shift?

 

That’s correct. They are both push-button transfer cases. The guy I bought the unit from only lives about 30 min from me and we talk all the time. He told me that that he never had any issues with it, so I’m fine with leaving it alone. The electric connector on the back of the manual tc is broken. I’m assuming I can swap those? I’ll post a photo later of the part I am talking about.

 

I was cleaning up underneath and noticed that it looks like there are several places where there are small studs used to hold various brackets for fuel lines, emergency brake etc. they are pretty rusty and those that still have bolts, I don’t think there’s any chance in getting a socket on them. in some instance the stud is still there but the bolts have completely rusted away. Any recommendations on how to fix. I am going to use POR-15 on the frame, but I don’t know if that should be used in this situation.

 

Progress update. As I’m sure happens to everyone , this auto to manual transmission swap turned into a much bigger project. Decided to do a bunch of other work while I have truck up on lift and torn aprt. Going to replace LBJs, control arm bushings, steering rack bushings, maybe steering rack, power steering hoses, rag joint, needle gun frame and POR15 treat the frame, control arm etc. here’s a picture of driver side wheel well after I used the needle gun on it. I have pulled the LBJ and strut from this side and you can see all the rust that was behind it. Having all this open will also make running the clutch hydraulic lines a bit easier.

 

Worst case, should be possible to just swap them. He’ll have to break down the entire case but he’s all in already with everything else.

 

I’m in the middle of this as well, I’d like to just throw my TC from behind the auto on without messing around with swapping the coupling if possible. It’s temporary until I get my dual cases built so I’m willing to experiment.

 

If you’re referring to the position switches, yep - swappable.

For any damaged connectors, I tracked down the part#s -

Transfer L4 Position Switch Connector: 90980-11156
Transfer Neutral Position Switch Connector: 90980-10923
Transfer 4WD Position Switch Connector (w/2-4 Selector): 90980-11250
Transfer 4WD Position Switch Connector (wo/2-4 Selector): 90980-11156 (same as L4)

 

Ok cool. Thanks!

 

Another update. Removed the steering rack and both lower control arms. Had to cut the alignment bolt chafts with a carbide blade and reciprocating saw. Learned a lot from reading the ‘how to’ posts over on adventuretaco.com. I started descaling the front part of the frame. Next time I do this I’m just going to buy a California truck and have it shipped here. 20 years of Northeast winters is definitely hard on these trucks.

 

I had to cut my sway bar links to get the sway bar removed. Any recommendations on how to drill out the remaining pieces?
I believe the nut is welded to the control arm and that there is an Allen-head bolt in it, but mine are rusted solid. I can post a better picture tomorrow now that both lower control atms have been removed.

 

The sway bar end link isn’t a captive nut, yours is probably just rusted solid to the mounting tab. Now that your LCA is off, you can probably just cut through the threaded portion and hammer it out from the back.
Are you doing the rear main seal and all that before putting the flywheel on? I’m not there yet, just got the transmission out.