2004 Tacoma 3.4 Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley

Long time listener, first time caller here.

I recently replaced the timing belt on my 2004 Tacoma 3.4. The timing belt tensioner pulley replacement seems to be super tight after torquing to the 30ftlb spec. The required washer is behind the hex shoulder bolt, but the pulley will not pivot freely, or even forcefully. Belt tension seems to be fair, but it was also a PITA to pull the tensioner pin. Is this pulley a normally tight fitment?

Sadly, I took this apart in late April when I had a fan bearing failure. Between the dirt bikes, work and travel, I'm just now getting around to reassembly. It's a bit tough to remember the freedom of that particular pulley. I feel like it should have SOME movement, but may be wrong, as this is this first time for me to replace the belt myself.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

That pulley should pivot (and spin) freely when torqued, which is what allows the tensioner to apply pressure and ultimately tension the belt. Sure you got the right bolt? Does it pivot when not torqued? Are you trying to pivot it with/out the tensioner installed? (it'll be very difficult/impossible with the tensioner installed)

 

Thanks so much for the reply. I believe I have used your how-to guide exclusively for this timing belt change. Great work.

The arm that the pulley is bolted to does not pivot when torqued. I used the original 10mm hex shoulder bolt and the thick washer between it and the block. The pulley itself spins freely, no pivot.

I will pull it back apart this afternoon and see if something is different between the last pulley installed and the one that I just installed. Once again, thanks so much for the help.

 

Got a chance this evening to break everything back down. Admittedly, I went further than I should have after second guessing the fit the first time, but at least a gut feeling the next morning got me here asking questions.

I find it hard to believe, but the new Toyota part may be out of spec. I removed the new arm and pulley for a measure. The new arm is roughly 0.038" wider than the old arm I replaced. This would not allow the shoulder bolt to seat without placing clamping force on the arm and pinching it in place.

Looks like I'm going to remove the new pulley from the new arm and place it on the old arm. There seems to be minimal play on the shoulder bolt with the old arm, so I think it is fair to say it will work fine. Does anyone have a spec for the bolt that fastens the pulley to the arm? I'm thinking there may not be one as this is a single assembly, but it's worth asking. I tried to reverse it and get close, but started a bit high on the torque wrench.

Thanks so much for the help. I appreciate it.

 

That’s a kick in the teeth.
Part# confirmed?

 

To me it looks like the dial is not indicating what it should when I look at the markings on the metal gauge.

 

Definitely a kick in the teeth. I already had the new crankshaft bolt torqued, so replacing that new part with a new part, as well as the hydraulic tensioner, which I'm reluctant to reuse. It was quite a (mental) pain breaking all back apart, but I will have everything here tomorrow to get it wrapped up.

I did place the new tensioner pulley on the old arm. Pivots freely at proper torque specs now.

I believe the part# for the idler sub-assy is 13505-62070. I have a ton of Toyota boxes around and wasn't 100% sure if that was it or not.

 

Box

 

Where did you get the new idler bracket? Dealer? Amazon/eBay? Any chance it’s a counterfeit?

 

I bought a kit from a seller on eBay. Everything was in Toyota packaging and seemed to be legit. The belt did not have the cam and crank markings like the one I removed. The tensioner pulley bearing had no brand designation on the seal. The old pulley was marked as a Koyo.

I recently ran into this on the rear wheel bearings for my Tundra. I ordered Timken bearings from Rock Auto. They arrived in a Timken box, but the bearings were marked Koyo. Go figure.

I replaced the hydraulic tensioner with one I got from the dealer locally and it is of poorer looking quality than the one from eBay. I am not sure if someone is counterfeiting parts for a 20+ year old vehicles, but I may be wrong. Toyota may be getting individual parts from multiple suppliers at this point. I really can't say with any level of certainty.