2004 Tacoma Manual won't start. Suspect security system.

Lol yeah that's the gist of it. I get that. But I have no other way to work so I need specific directions so I don't fuck it up and end up having to Uber 2hrs round trip to work everyday lol.

 

haha I honestly have no idea how how and where it is connected. the couple I have removed were a learning experience for me. Route the wires and figure out what they do. one will be start/crank going through the box one will be power to the box one will be ground one will be the reader and one will be the light. other than that good luck

 

Well do you live in Jacksonville FL? I'll just swing by your place and we'll do it together lol.

 

sadly no... FL sounds great compared to the -10 C in Manitoba

 

This happened when I was young sooo.... I just towed the truck to a alarm system installer and had them remove it.

My problem was I didn't have the magnetic key.

 

Guys, I really need help with this. I got stuck at a gas station pump for 10mins because my truck wouldn't start. Anyone know where the relay is? Can't I just find this relay and connect the ignition to the starter, bypassing the stupid security?

What idiot thought it was a good idea to install this?

 

If you don't want to damage your ignition system by taking drastic actions, I highly recommend you just bring it to an A/V shop that installs remote start or alarm systems. They'll be able to remove it no problem. My local Toyota dealership removed my Locktronics engine immobilizer for me no problem.

 

I can't really afford that

 

I don't think it'll be that expensive to have something removed, it's really just labor. I know I sound worst case scenario here but if you try to remove it yourself and somehow damage the ignition system imagine how much that would cost to repair. It would far exceed how much an A/V shop would charge to remove it.

I'm sure it's not that hard to remove yourself, but if you don't feel confident in what you're doing you should always let the pros do it. When I get my new front coilovers I'm going to pay an extra $75 to have them install the coil springs for me. Compressing the coils is incredibly dangerous with those cheap coil compressors from the store and it's worth it for just peace of mind and safety.

 

the ones I did were obvious where they spliced in the box. it shouldn't be hard at all if you have ever wired up a radio or any electronics on a vehicle. Bartmaster is correct if you do somehow mess it up its going to be way more to get someone to fix it. The tow bill alone will be more than what it's going to cost to remove it.

I'm not certain how it is with insurance where you are but here if they determine you need an immobilizer for your vehicle, either because of your location or you own an "at risk" vehicle. You are required to have it in or your theft insurance is void.

 

I've never worked on car electrical systems, but I have on aircraft electrical systems. Splicing wires is no problem. The thing is, I don't know what these wires go to. It would seem to me, as an electrician, that this whole system is meant to prevent 2 things from making connection, unless the fob is used. What are the two things it's bypassing?

 

Did u ever get the truck started on the day of the original post? If so, how? If not, just remove the splices from the wires that go to the ignition switch, repair them if need be, and check all fuses. I've seen it before where these things pull too much current for whatever part of the ignition switch circuit they are spliced into and pop the fuse. Also, are you 100% certain that this is the cause of your no start issue?

 

Yes, i did get the truck started. The fob thing was ducktaped under the ignition switch for about a year and it worked fine. On the day of the original post, I got it started by swiping the fob around near the ignition switch. Well, now that's not working. I am 100% positive this is the problem. The battery reads good, when it does start it starts right up with no problem. When it won't start, there's not even any clicking noises, it won't even try to start.

 

Then get that unit and all associated wiring out of there. Repair any factory wiring that it has been spliced into, and check fuses.

 

It would also be a good idea the check for any other related components to that system. Maybe some sort of receiver for your fob, and trash that too.

 

Could be 7 or 628 things that go through it.
black to black red to red blue to blue....
all the wires that are apart of the "box" will be the same colour to prevent the car theif from disabling the system quickly. Your factory truck wiring will still be colour coated. The installer would have cut your factory wiring. then connected the corresponding in and out of the box to each side of his cut. You just have to find all of their points where the box is wired between and bobs your uncle nuclear meltdown averted!

 

I think I got it. The box didn't route wires to the engine. It only had wires going to the ignition switch. All of the wires, except for 2, were were left connected, but spliced into. Two wires were cut and spliced into, meaning the original connect was severed. I cut the box out, spliced the two wires that were no longer connected, and put electrical tape on wire ends of the box wires that are still spliced in. Truck is starting without the fob now. Once or twice it was a little hesitant, but it did start.