2005-2015 Morimoto Mini D2S Bi-Xenon projector install guide

Thanks. Pictures definitely help.

 

Is this a necessary piece that I should have ordered with my kit or is it included? I don't recall seeing it listed anywhere as optional equipment.

 

I was able to use the oem ones on the ones I just finished this weekend, I ordered the 80mm just in case but they weren't needed

 

Very nice write-up and gives me a taste of things to come.

 

How important is it to be totally sealed off at the rubber boot? With my retrofit, the igniter part that attaches to the bulb is so big that there's no way it fits inside the rubber boot, so I ended up trimming the stock boot so that it fits over the igniter but sticks out still. I've had a bit of condensation in one of the headlights and was wondering if this is why it's happening or perhaps from something else? I took then back off and added some silicone around the edges to make sure I had them sealed there... And it still does the same with the condensation. I don't know what else to do.

 

Eh, mine sticks out for awhile, never had issues. Water hardly comes from back there anyways. I would check your signal bulb seals, etc. If it all fails, you'll have to reseal it again. It is a lot of condensation?

 

Im on the same spot as you.
Im pretty sure i sealed good with the retro rubber from TRS my headlights but some how theres like fog in both of the headlight. Its not that much but is visible. And i was wondering the same if it had to do with the way i trim factory boot. I trim it as tight as i could to fit the igniter.
Or maybe im wrong maybe i didnt put enought rubber on both headlights.

 

If it's not bad like a tiny bit of condensation, add some silicia packs

 

Mine isn't terrible... I think what is happening is after a wash or rain water just sits along that top edge and gets in there somehow. Then once it's in there every time there is a temperature difference between the lens and outside it will fog up. It's a real pain in the ass too! I have some silica packs... I'll try that I guess!

 

How do you add silica packs to remove moisture from the inside of a headlight assembly, or did I miss the big picture here? Well I guess you could be asking for the headlight to be removed from the vehicle and placed inside a plastic bag with the silica packs. Also, how large of silica packs are you recommending?

 

You don't have to remove the headlights. If the condensation is tiny, you can open the boot and drop a silica pack in between the bowl and housing. If you like, you can place one near the boot as well.

 

Okay, so very small silica packets. The ones I have are 8 unit and 16 unit packs, just a tiny bit too large to stuff into a small opening.

 

OMG, this was such an easy modification. So far I have taken apart one headlight assembly and I cooked it at 250F for 12 minutes. The lens came off with a little effort and it was not stringy like other videos I've seen. The plastic housing also didn't distort because it was too soft from too much heat. The next one will be at 220F and again for 12 minutes just to see how that one goes. I did have to modify the reflector bowl by removing about 3/16" of material just leaving enough for the alignment washer to fit, and then modified the rubber lamp seal by carefully cutting away just a little at a time. All I need to do now is mount it on the truck and ensure the cutoff is perfectly horizontal, but it should be very close since there was very little wiggle room when using the alignment washer. Wish I had a test jig to mount it to. Guess if I were to modify these things all the time then that would make sense to have one. Now it's time to modify the second headlight assembly. I'm taking photos, hopefully they all come out.

I only have one concern right now and that is the shroud cover is just over an inch (I didn't take an actual measurement) away from my reflector bowl. I'm not sure what it will look like at night and I hope the light leakage doesn't cause it to look stupid nor blind other drivers. I have aluminum tape but I think that will block air flow for the bulb and it will run hotter than it should thus having a shorter life.

 

Yes, very easy! However, your h4 adaptor plate will not work with Tacomas. Toyota mounted their h4 flange a few degrees off. You'll need to completely grind the flange down .

What shrouds did you go with? You can probably cover just where it leaks, but definitely don't do the whole projector.

Pictures after you're done!

 

Crap, well that sucks. It's not a problem grinding the plate down, it's just I didn't want to remove the reflector bowl again. Oh well, live and learn. But thanks for that advice.

The Gatling Gun 2.0 shrouds.

EDIT: So about 3 minutes after posting the message, while headed out the door to Pizza Hut, I thought to myself that all I really need to do is remove the key (the metal finger that runs in the D2S projector housing groove vice more grinding and making a mess. But first I'll check the alignment since these are not factory headlights before making any changes. While the alignment may be off, there could be a slim possibility that it will be okay, or that could just be wishful thinking. Either way I will not know the outcome until next weekend when I expect to take my front end apart.

EDIT2: Modified the second headlamp assembly, looking good so far. Just need to give them a quick mounting and alignment before sealing them up. I am looking to mount the ballasts tot eh side of the headlights using very short self-threading screws. There appears to be ample room for short screws but I'll need to wait until after I have done the alignment as that may pull the reflector in too close to the housing to use some short screws.

 

Alright it's bad I'm stuck at such an early step but how do I secure the bulb in the projector? My kit didn't include the pieces that were on this video

https://www.google.com/search?q=how...7.4079j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=0


EDIT: Found a video with the 4.0! I'm doing it right just not very coordinated I guess. STANDBY FOR MORE QUESTIONS WHEN I FAIL

My next question is how do I set this up to test everything in my house with a spare 12v battery? I don't see a test harness

 

I just used the morimoto harness installed on the truck to test it and horizontally aligned my projectors at the same time.

 

Did anyone still use LED bulbs for the DRLs/Turn signals even with the blacked out housing?

 

soon

 

Sub'd