2005-2015 Morimoto Mini D2S Bi-Xenon projector install guide

For those that did the retro fit. How do you adjust the projector? Do I want to make sure the projector is leveled first? Once leveled, do I ad just up/down and left/right by adjusting the adjuster on the headlights (used for OEM reflector)?

 

Yep, the OEM reflector adjusters do your up/down, left/right.

 

I finished assembly of my retrofit build this morning and was bench testing everything when I encountered a couple of things that worried me. When first energized, one of the drivers emits a whine, see the video below. Occasionally one side or the other will fail to light up and one or both will have a flicker. I double checked all of my connections and didn't find anything out of sorts. This can't be normal though, is it?



Build consists of:
Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0
Panamera (White/Amber LED Switchback)
Morimoto XB Ballast
XB 6500K
MotoControl Bi-Xenon: H4/9003

 

That’s the normal operating sound, high pitched whining. What you don’t want is a low screeching sound that you can barely hear. That is when your ballast dies! As far as flickering, not sure???

 

Mine flicker a bit when they warming up. I assume that is normal. I’ve had my passenger side fail to light twice. No idea why, but it’s not a recurring problem.

 

I would check and see if the igniters are bad, swap them from the good side to the bad side. I had issues with mine and swapping the sides of either ballast or igniter helps to locate the problems. There’s only so many areas you can check until you find the problem (bulbs, igniters, ballasts, fuses). Not too difficult to figure the culprit.

 

Can somebody please help me!

This is now the third time that I have had my driver side housing opened up due to my shroud falling off of the projector. The part that confuses me is that the epoxy clearly stays bonded to the metal projector, but the inside surface of the plastic shroud is clean of any epoxy. I have used the JB Plastic Weld yet it always comes free from the plastic side. Every time I fix it, I scuff the old epoxy with a file and sand the plastic on the shroud to rough it all up, yet it still falls off. Has anyone else had this issue? I have followed every video that I find out there and nobody really goes into depth other than saying "use JB weld" then they jump to the next step.

Hopefully someone out there has insight that I am clearly missing.

 

I used the regular JB Weld on the 6 little tabs on the shroud, haven’t had any issues. What projectors do you have?

 

I have the Morimoto Mini D2S Stage III projectors. I think I am going to use the regular JB Weld like you mentioned this time and hope for the best.

 

Anyone have experience with the 4.0 Bi-LED kit? I'm curious if anyone has any weigh-in on the Xenon vs LED and the fact that the kit comes with 6500k bulbs now.

When I was thinking about buying a kit a while back I was leaning towards 5000k bulbs so the light wasnt blue. I haven't been able to find any posts about the quality of light, distribution, color, general functionality, etc.

Any input is appreciated!

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/2...a+Tacoma&preselect=53723&preselect_restrict=1

 

I am terribly sorry to awaken an old thread..... but......

I am currently installing the morimoto D2S 5.0 Projectors in my 2012 Reflector.

I am noticing that when using the h4 alignment ring, the projector looks to sit unlevel in the housing. I know that the true way to level the projector is by mounting them into the vehicle and then making adjustments by rotation the projector.

But the problem I see with that, is that the h4 alignment ring is keeping me from being able to rotate the projector because it's keeping it inline with the factory reflector h4 alignment notches.

@TRSAndrew What should I do? Grind it down and adjust by hand and ditch the alignment ring? Or leave it for now and install to see what it looks like?

 

You need to grind down the notch, tighten them up really good, mount them on the truck and aim. Don't need to use the alignment ring. I just redid my headlights with the d2s 5.0's the other week too. I had the 3.0's originally and those needed to have the notch grinded off too. I did not use any alignment rings with the 5.0's.

 

Thanks for the reply dude, Much appreciated.

I have the 4.0s in my truck now. Headlights were made by Kustom 54 lighting.... and I was very displeased with the work they did.

So I'm doing it myself! So you have to grind the centering notch off of the h4 ring, which basically makes it become a washer. So then the projector can rotate freely until secure with the metal nut?

 

Yes. I bought the locknut tightening tool that lets you use a wrench and socket and tightened the projectors in pretty damn tight and mine have not moved at all. You can even epoxy the projector to the reflector bowl once you know it is perfect, but I don't. This is the best pic I have of mine since I redid them and they are awesome.

 

I recently installed the 5.0’s in my 05-11 housings and I second this, buy the tool TRS offers, it’s worth the money.

 

Already got the tool Also got the cable pass through fittings and the gortex breather ports. I'm really not trying to do this again lol