2005 Bulletproof Taco: 1 Ton SAC

if it wouldnt cost a million dollars to ship id be all over it .....

 

Thats why I said $125 shipped

 

north of the border ..... if so im alll over it

 

Haha didnt even realize that. Ok lemme get a price and see if I can do that for ya...

 

You could ship it to someone going to Moab and get it from them at Moab. haha I imagine Konsta (RCtoy) could haul if down for you. I think he is hauling a lot of spare parts down on a trailer to Moab.

 

ill need to get em modified


but yes i have thought of it

 

Oh that's right... crawlbox. haha.

 

That makes the most sense too cuz you would have to relocate the carrier bearing if you shortened the rearend of the shaft anyway. And did someone say hosed up the rear end? haha

Driveshaft #1:


Driveshaft #2:


1st one was almost FUBAR'd!! Took it in to a shop and he drilled some holes in it and added weights to get it balanced. Haven' tried it out yet, but I halfway expect it to just twist if I have to get on the throttle...

2nd one is luckily just a scratch

 

OMG!!!!!! That is insane! I bow to you

 

Oh yeah? Did that help with strength? I wish I could get one that wasn't so damn big around and it wouldn't be an issue... Why can't they design them more like cv axle shafts... Those could scrape on the rocks better...

 

Thicker wall helps a lot. Mine are all retubed thicker. If you catch them with just dents, usually driveshafts can be fixed by shrinking the metal to remove the dent using a torch. Works great and saves a lot over a retube.

 

Meh... He does't post much anyway Tell us more about this SAS/SAC you supposedly have going on right now!

I guess my point with the stronger tubing is, If I put it into a ledge again do you think it will still get banged up like my first one did? (I imagine not as bad, but any is pretty much enough to through them off balance at high speeds...)

 

subd

 

I'm not following here... how to I use a torch to remove a dent? haha

Could be handy since I already have a spare driveshaft for strictly wheeling purposes now.

 

That's what I thought... If I had been on 35's I would have been fine that day. The 35's would have hit the ledge sooner than my 33's and the DS wouldn't have touched it...

 

Ok so heres the siinny on the driveshafts...front sections measure about 24 3/4" from u-joint to u-joint...rear portion measures 28 1/2" from rear u-joint to front of the tube where it necks down and becomes the splines.

These shafts should be stock length for access cab and doublecab shortbed 4x4 tucks.

I have for parts/rebuild:

(1) front section perfect tube but needs a carrier bearing ($40+shipping)
(1) dented rear section...perfect candidate for a retube or lengthen/shorten ($65+shipping)

Perfect usuable shafts:

(1) front section with fairly new carrier bearing ($80+shipping)
(2) rear sections retubed to 0.083" & balanced and marked for front shaft above ($125 shipped CONUS)

All u-joints on all the shafts are good and tight.

 

Alright my truck is a DCLB so I just ran out and measured and the rear section U joint to U joint and it's around 51". Without talking to a drive shaft shop and getting an idea on prices I dont know what my best option would be. I like the idea of having a 2 piece with thicker tubing and then a 1 piece as a spare incase the carrier bearing mounting location ever got destroyed on a trail.
I'm wondering about buying the first 2 you listed and get them made into a 1 piece. I'll have to get back to you though.

 

SO are you going to build this thing or just talk about building it?

And I believe the picture on the front page is wrong, because I am pretty sure it looks like this...

 

hahahahahaha

 

Oh this weekend will see progress...once I finish working on your truck FOO