2005 Bulletproof Taco: 1 Ton SAC

Not sure what the console looks like. But by doing the boot like I did this one, you really don't need anywhere special, just cut a hole and add the boot mounted on top of any semi flat surface.

 

Like this. No real flat areas. On top

 

Use the big cupholder on the right, and attach the boot like I ddi for the crawlbox shifter:





If you got a boot with enough height to it, you could run a piece of it down between the cupholders too, attaching it the same way. Looks like that's about your best option.

 

What's the throw of the crawler? Is the cup holder big enough to contain the shifter during the whole motion?

 

I would wager your cupholder would be bug enough. There is always the option of the marlin short throw kit as well.


http://www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/shifter-parts/short-throw-kit


But much like EVERYTHING at Marlin it's out of stock.


Here's another guy that does them:


http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/ShortThrowShifter.shtml


And a DIY how to link as well:


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/456807-build-your-own-short-throw-shifter.html

 

Oh you're good. What's the throw on yours as it comes up through the center console?

 

Thanks. The throw on my crawlbox is pretty decent, it uses most of the entire length of the coin tray.


I considered short throw for the FJcase, but just did a little more cutting instead. Really its just plastic, and Toyota can always get you another.

 

Got the shifter all wrapped up on Saturday.


Sealed up the tranny tunnel with a rubber boot from Jegs:





With the inchworm knob on the crawlbox and the stock FJ knob on the FJcase:





With the wife's Sequioa knob on the crawlbox and a stock yota j-shift on the FJcase:





Also all dash lights work


Don't know which way I want to go yet with the knobs...maybe I will get an inchworm j-shift and run the inchworm knobs...but I like the sleeper look of the yota knobs...


Crawlbox and FJcase are full of fluid now, driveshafts back in, serviced the front diff after break-in, and changed a rear pinion seal, ready to wheel again

 

I vote for using the toyota knobs.

I'll see you guys on the 7th, unless it's okay to head down Friday afternoon?

 

Awesome work on that cockpit man!

 

No problem on heading down on the 6th. If you want to plan on being at my house around 5pm that would work out perfect. We will have dinner waiting for you

Glad you were able to get the day off!

I/several others are staying here for the night, we will have room for you:

La Quinta Inn & Suites Lafayette
312 Meijer Dr.
Lafayette, IN, 47905

I think we are going to "socialize" and have a few beverages at the hotel. Eric's less than a mile away so he is going to pop in as well. There's a pool and hot tub...plus free breakfast


I like the Toyota knobs but Eric thinks I should show off the bling...but the Sequoia looks awesome with an Inchworm Gear knob in it!

 

Just to put the info in one post:


-Lowers-
2"dia 1/4" wall DOM, sleeved with 1 1/2"dia 1/4" wall DOM
1 1/4" shank 5/8" bore 2 5/8" wide Johnny Joints B.E.


-Upper-
1 1/2" dia 1/4" wall DOM
7/8"x7/8" Heims B.E., with 7/8"x5/8" High Misaligns


-Tie-Rod-
1 1/2"dia 1/4" wall DOM
7/8"x3/4" Heims B.E., no misaligns


-Drag Link-
1 1/2"dia 1/4" wall DOM
7/8"x7/8" Heim, 7/8"x5/8" High misaligns (Pitman Arm End)
7/8"X7/8" Heim, 7/8"x3/4" High misaligns (Pass Arm End)


All heims are standard width (2") misaligmnments.


RuffStuff Brackets used:
lower link brackets (axle end, modified to lower link angle)
adjustable 10° upper link bracket
offset panhard bracket (axle end, modified)
5/8" weld washers (used on every bracket except frame end upper link)


Ballistic Brackets used:
heavy duty lower link brackets (modified)
adjustable 22.5° upper link bracket (modified)


Brackets from scratch:
frame end panhard
double shear for steering knuckles

 

well done!

i think i asked this before, but who did you go with for the heims? and why them vs the other (i'm assuming ballistic and ruff stuff were your choices).

 

I got my heims from Ruffstuff, they are all cryo treated heims with liners. I have had bad luck with FK heims in the past wearing out REALLY quick.


I did a lot of research and the cry treated Ruffstuff heims seem to last decent to long in the environment my truck usually sees. Time will tell.


IDK who's heim ballistic sells.

 

New shop tool:

 

i got the same press about 8 months ago when i was doing a wheel bearing. used it a number of times since. works like a champ. definitely one of HFs products that's actually worth being called well made.

 

Back when I was doing IFS wheel bearings, I made a simple frame from some 2x2 and used a 12ton bottle jack as a press, but recently have had to do a few things that wouldn't fit in the frame.


Plus...add a SWAG pressbrake kit and I can bend plate now

 

aw man, you're gonna make me jealous! i've had my eye on the swag kit for a while, but it's pointless for me to get it until i move in 7 months and have a garage again.

 

Sweet press dawg