2005 - How to bleed rear brakes?

I originally posted this under Technical Chat and got no responses so I'm re-posting it here. Hope that doesn't cause a problem.

2005 Tacoma with ABS, pretty sure there is no Traction Control.

The brake fluid in the reservoir was looking dark and very dirty so I thought I would change it. I started with the front, which I had no problems. After all this, I now know I should have started with the right rear. Is this going to cause problems. What is the reason for starting with the farthest way and working in?

When I moved to the rear, nothing comes out of the bleeder valve when my gf pumps the brakes a few times and holds it down. Same procedure we where doing for the front that worked.

I spent all day yesterday researching google and youtube. I don't know enough to know where to start and that's how I always end up here.

Thanks for the help guys!

 

Starting from the furthest away ensures you're getting all the old fluid out. You haven't done any harm by doing the front first so that's no worries. The big thing with ABS is that when you're bleeding them you don't want to let the reservoir run dry and get air in the ABS pump, otherwise that's a trip to the dealer to have them evacuate the entire system.

I'm not sure why you're not getting anything out of the rear bleeders. Did you try both sides?

 

I think you might have to do it with the truck running, and the parking brake off.

 

I have a 2010 and switched everything over to SS brake-lines, we didn't have the truck running when we bled them. When he opens the bleeder on the wheel cylinder the brake fluid should come out.

 

I got a 2nd gen 2014. Never use my parking brake. I changed my brake fluid without the engine running. I did use a pressurized brake fluid tank attached to the truck brake fluid tank and pumped my brake peddle.

 

Yes I tried both sides same results.

 

Yes I tried that too.

 

If you have a vacuum booster it's similar to how you remember except you pump the brakes several times to build pressure, then open the bleeder with the pedal held down. Don't let the pedal up until the screw is tightened back down.

With VSC: 04200210.pdf
Without VSC: 04200310.pdf

 

Has to do with it being an Off Road and the brake booster. Turn your key to accessory and try again.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-4x4-trd-off-road-with-speed-bleeders.368080/

 

Not all Offroads have electric boosters (my 2008 TRD OR does not). His is a 2005 and if he doesn't have VSC/TRAC then he would still have a vacuum booster. I think in 2009+ is when the vacuum booster was eliminated.

I just re-read that he was following the FSM and that works fine on my truck. Not sure why it wouldn't work, so I'm of no help.

 

Hmm, interesting. So that's why some people say to have the truck running (vacuum) and some just the key turned (electronic). Makes sense, thanks.

 

This works on some models, not sure if it's specific to OR or Sport. I believe the procedure was turn the key to accessory open the bleeder and tap the brake pedal to engage the ABS pump that would then pump the brake fluid through the system.

@Crom installed speed bleeders but it's the same principle:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-4x4-trd-off-road-with-speed-bleeders.368080/

 

Working in a hospital that discards O2 tubing after each patient, I save some tubing and run it through a drilled out cap of an empty plastic gatorade or OJ bottle partially filled with fresh brake fluid. The O2 ends fit the bleeder screw perfectly and it's an easy one man brake bleeder setup. I re-use this setup for my Tacoma and Jeep wrangler.

 

damn. Good idea right there

 

I have no VSC. I did not bleed the Master cylinder. Do do you think that could be my problem?

 

We tried pumping the brake pedal 20-40 times depending on the different instructions we happened to be randomly trying to get working. None of that worked. I'm I supposed to hear the ABS come on or extra pressure on the brake pedal?

 

Whats a power bleeder?

 

It's a variation on the one man brake bleeder. Something's not making sense if you can bleed the front brakes and not the rear.

 

Good point sir.

OP get a good line wrench and take it loose at the wheel cylinder. Hard to believe two bad wheel cylinders though.

 

Its not rusty. Is the hard line the brake line that leads to that wheel? Does it just unscrew like the bleeder valve?