2005 Tacoma V6 clutch slave cylinder rebuild

Just tried changing this but couldn't get the fluid line off might of rounded it any advice ?

 

Buy a new line then use vise grips on old line to remove.

 

Done and thanks. But the clutch pedal feels shallow if anyone knows what I mean. Does this mean it needs to be bled more?

 

If your saying the pedal travels further then it used to before feeling the resistance of the clutch you need to keep bleeding. It should be identical unless you adjusted the pushrod inside the cab.

 

That helps a lot thank you

 

Did this today. So easy! To remove it, swap out the parts and put it back in took about 45 minutes. Bleeding added another 15-20.
I can still hear the chirping, but it's less noticeable. It seems to come and go now, but again, at a lower volume. Considering the ease of the job, and the low cost, id say it's worth doing.

Edit: drove it all day. Chirping is back! I can't figure out why it'd return. The only thing I can think of is where OP mentioned honing the inside of the cylinder. Maybe the piston is getting hu up on the walls of the Linder still, despite the new internals?

 

Okay, I've been reading through this thread because I think my '06 6-speed has a bad throw-out bearing. It squeaks/chirps at idle when the clutch pedal is not depressed. I notice no irregular sounds when driving or when the clutch is depressed. Even a little pressure on the clutch pedal makes the sound go away. It only does it when idling in neutral.

After reading this thread, I am wondering if I actually have a bad TOB or if the slave cylinder rebuild will fix the problem.

What's the collective opinion?

 

It's hard to say for sure, but the rebuild kit is only $13 and an hour of your time.

 

I'm in the same boat. I have a 2009 Off-Road 6-spd with 75k miles and my truck started chirping a few months ago. I started a lot of research and was very close last night to ordering the $780 dollar clutch/flywheel upgrade with the added TOB kit and bolts. Of course I don't know how to do all of that so I'd have to spend another $650 at the shop for them to do it and not warranty the work.

http://urdusa.com/store/Trans,-Clut...L-V6-w/6-speed-transmission/product_info.html

So now I'm reading this and thinking twice. I'm going to hold off and making knee-jerk reactions. I have read two other posts that the URD throwout bearing is squeaking again after 15k miles. So that's not good, either. I'll keep researching this and also ask my local mechanic what he thinks. He's a certified Toyota mech, so we'll see. I'll keep y'all updated. Thanks for the teamwork!

Scott

 

I personally wouldn't order that whole setup. For one, yes, there are now reports that their "tob kit" is also chirping. But aside from that, I see absolutely no reason for a lightweight flywheel in a truck. For sports cars looking for acceleration, sure...but not in a truck where you want to keep up the inertia.

 

Any updates? New fixes or an actual fix?

 

None that I've read about. Only temporary. Just one of those annoying things to live with I think. I havent seen anyone w/ their trans blowing up from it either. Quill torn up, maybe. But again, I haven't seen anyone with their trucks disabled b/c of the bad TOB which means finding a permanent solution isn't much of a priority.

 

Hi guys,

My 2012 also just got the clutch chirp. I'm told that it won't be covered under my CPO warranty because the TOB assembly is a wear item. I understand the clutch disc being a wear item, but this sort of thing doesn't seem like a normal wear problem to me (I'm very easy on my truck and do not ride the clutch). I'm trying to debate whether $2K to repair it (including new clutch disc and PP/FW resurfacing) is worth it at this point.

I am also assuming that Toyota implemented the bigger spring in the slave cylinder beginning at 2012 and onward, since my year is not covered in T-SB-0365-10 (this TSB replaces the toasted TOB).

If the chirp is not representative of imminent mechanical doom, should I really worry about fixing it? Or just live with the squeal? $2K is pretty steep, and my current clutch should hold up just fine. Maybe I should worry about this when it's time to replace the clutch disc.

@hladun your assertion about the noise is a little confusing. The video shows the new bearing noise (none) and the old bearing noise as a method of comparison at 14:33. The new TOB does not make any noise. See the caption on the screenshot below.

 

Also see URD's response to this issue here:

Black Magic of the Clutch Release System

 

Good find

 

The TOB will always end up chirping . Even with a new clutch the TOB does a lot of work so it takes a shit fast. Wish you didn't have to drop the tranny every time you needed to swap the damn bearing

 

My son's 2010 Tacoma has the squeal that goes away when the pedal is depressed slightly.

Looking at the PIX of the slave cylinder components it seems backwards to me. Does the spring keep the TOB in contact with the pressure plate diaphragm or does the spring retract the fork to pull the TOB out of engagement? That seems bass ackwards to me.

 

The spring in the slave cylinder keeps the TOB in contact with the pressure plate hence the chirping from not enough spring pressure-wear on the fingers from lack of constant contact.

 

I understand that, but from what I understand, the TOB is NOT designed for constant contact with the pressure plate diaphragm. While this may temporarily remedy the symptom, it will shorten the service life of the TOB. This "fix" would be similar to driving with my foot on the clutch pedal.

I have never had to service a clutch in a vehicle that was not subjected to severe use and have driven cars over 200K miles without so much as an adjustment to the clutch. If I can cure this symptom W/O subjecting the TOB to reduced service life, that is what I will attempt.

If however, the TOB IS designed for constant contact, then this is a viable option. Is the TOB originally designed for constant contact?

 

http://urdusa.com/store/Trans,-Clutch-and-Flywheels-Throw-Out-Bearings/c178_236/index.html