2006 prerunner eats rotors...help

Got a 2006 perunner. It destroys brake rotors. I get about 15k miles out of set of brand new rotors. I've had this problem ever since I bought the truck in 2020. I've replaced the rotors over and over again.

The rotors warp. The truck feels like it's shaking to pieces when I brake. It's awful.

Had a mechanic tell me that it's a toyota thing and there's not solution for it. I'm about to replace them again and this time I"m looking to get some performance rotors, pads, and calipers I think.

Has anyone else had this issue? Is there a known solution? This drives me crazy.

 

I've got a 97 1st gen and I've never replaced the rotors on it. Just pads. It still works. Wife has a Sienna minivan with 270k miles on it and we've never had this issue. I"ve had the rotors replaced at 4 different shops. Same thing happens every time. I've had them "turn" rotors too and reuse them. Same results. I explain this to mechanics and they usually glass over and assume I'm an idiot. The one guy told me it's a known issue. I asked him about performance gear and he said it wouldn't help. I don't think he actually knew anything about it and he just wanted to get me out of his hair.

 

also, this is a frame replacement truck. Had a new frame put on in 2018. I bought it with 80k miles on it. Looked brand new.

Could the drum brakes be out of adjustment making the front brakes work too hard heating them up and destroying them?

I've also had to replace the entire rear end in the this truck. Took it to the dealership to replace a leaking seal where the drive shaft enters the diff and on the way home it exploded and gear oil went everywhere. They fixed it two more times....obviously didn't fix it. Kept leaking. Eventually the diff went out and I took it to independant place and they put a new diff on it. That was expensive.

The output seal behind the transmission where the drive shaft attaches is currently leaking. Another project I need to get done. Any thoughts on that? I think it's the seal anyway. Looked it up online and watched some YOuTube and it appears to be my exact problem.

 

I'd be looking for things like stuck slide pins, correctly installed spring clips, collapsed soft lines, kinked hard lines etc.

 

Let’s start with driving habits. Do you ride the brake pedal unknowingly? Are you a last minute on the brakes person? Where are you getting the parts? As @MR5X5 said check the item he mentioned above. Also the mechanic you went to never go there again he’s an idiot!!

 

Defintely need to check for proper hydraulic function and caliper function.

Also make sure that your front bearings/hubs are in good shape, if they haven't been replaced maybe consider that. At least clean the face of the hub really well that the rotor sits up against with a wire wheel. I've heard of slight axial runout from rust and stuff on the hub face causing similar symptoms. I've also found properly bedding the pads to the rotors is helpful even though it's an annoying extra step. I use powerstop so I follow their instructions.

 

This ^^^

Make sure the pistons are retracting far enough. Clean the rotors before you install. Use good quality parts.

When is the last time the brake fluid was changed?

 

I'll agree with riding the brake, disagree with the late braking. I'm very hard on braking and have never warped a rotor. Not saying it can't happen, because with bad rotors anything is possible.

 

I'd probably check calipers as mentioned, & replace if needed. The oil leaks you mentioned could have saturated your rear drums & shoes. Take a look. Riding the brakes on a long down hill grade will warp even new rotors in heart-beat...
Let us know the out come!

 

clean, inspect and adjust rear brakes first (look for oil contamination). the front brakes may have completly cooked the piston seals in the calipers causing the brake to drag. the design of the seal helps with the pad lifting off the rotor surface.

but to be fair i only got 15-20k max out of my brakes. But i drove like robby fn gordon, on and off road. oem brake and rotors lasted the longest, ebc stuff no too far behind but i switched up compounds after awhile.

 

When installing new rotors do you properly bed the pads?

Rotors warping is a myth on street vehicles. The surface does become irregular with the build up of pad material, causing the pulse feeling. Unless you have been miccing the old rotors to verify they need replacement, you may have well been tossing good units that just needed cleanup and bedding.

 

NOT A MYTH. I have warped and glazed many rorors, causing the pedal pulsation. sometime its due to other factors. but you can absoultly warp rorors. nothing builds up on the rotor surface, maybe rust. but the pad scrubs it off post haste.

Now not bedding rotors properly will eff them from the getgo.

 

Yes

Any signs of uneven pad wear side to side? I highly suspect a sticking caliper. They're 20 years old, you should really think about replacing them and then starting over with new pads and rotors

Anyone who claims rotors never warp has never stood in front of a brake lathe, run the bits in and watched them cut.. once you see it with your eyes it's undeniable

But, pad material transfer also exists.. and the resulting pulsation feels much like a warped rotor too. Leads to a lot of confusion..

 

Aftermarket or rebuilt calipers often have phenolic pistons and as they wear they will cock to the side and lock. So basically they become a ratchet moving into the rotor and never releasing. Replace your calipers making sure they have steel pistons. Different pad materials generate more heat and wear differently. I like ceramic brake pads. And you can get rotors that are drilled so they dissipate heat faster. None of this stuff needs to be much more expensive than the average. But I'd also check the rear brakes to be sure they are operating properly. If you aren't having similar problems with your other vehicles it's not your driving habits.

 

In his book Engineer to Win, Carroll Smith addresses the topic. It was one of many I read and applied during a few years tenure in my Solo II and HPDE experiences. I mean he was the guy helping develop the GT40 disc brakes, so he might have some good thinking on the topic.

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/10/07/brake-3-brake-system-myths-theyre-false/

From another source: https://brakeexperts.com/brake-rotors-real-answers-to-your-questions/

What Does it Mean When a Rotor is Warped
Auto mechanics frequently use the phrase “warped rotors” to describe discs that require major service or even replacement. The term “warped” as it is used to describe brake rotors is a bit misleading and inaccurate. The discs do not become misshapen to the point that the metal droops or bends. This would require a tremendous amount of heat where the metal reaches a nearly molten state.

Rather, when a rotor becomes warped, it simply means that the braking surface of the rotor has become uneven and is no longer a smooth, uniform surface for the brake pad to rub against. Even the minutest of unevenness (less than half a millimeter) can produce panic-inducing vibrations or shuddering when applying the brake pedal, or generate a loud squealing or screeching sound that can be heard around the corner.

Here are some common causes of uneven brake rotor surfaces:

• Painting or Glazing – when brake pads rub against the rotor surface, it is normal for some of the pad material to transfer to the disc, forming a thin layer. This process is called painting or glazing. When this material forms or wears unevenly on the rotor surface, vibration during braking can occur. Substandard pad material can also result in uneven glazing.

• Wear – when brake pads have worn so thin that the metal backing scrapes against the disc, damage to the rotor surface can result. Substandard pads can also cause accelerated or uneven wear on rotors.

• Misalignment – If brake pads or calipers are not properly aligned with the rotor, damage to the disc surface can occur when the brakes are applied, particularly during hard braking.

You'll note my post said 'street vehicles'. I suppose I should have expanded that to say 'that use cast iron rotors and have been properly installed, bedded and maintained'.

Believe it or not, matters not to me.

 

You guys are great. Thanks.

I've never installed a rotor or a brake pad in my life. Probably not going to start either. I can't speak to the quality of install from the various mechanics I've used. I will say that no other vehicle I"ve ever driven (I've driven lots of vehicles) has ever done what my truck does. I've had multiple trucks maintained by these same mechanics and none of this has ever happened.

Also, I drive like an old man and I don't do any stupid improper breaking. Still on the original clutch on my 97 tacoma and it shifts great. I've driven lots of different vehicles a lot and none of this has ever been an issue. It's just this truck.

I don't know much of anything about how brakes work. Just enough to be able to talk about it. I know that calipers exist and squeeze the pads against the rotors but that's all I got. I have had the calipers replaced a couple years ago hoping that might resolve my problem. Made zero difference. Same thing happened in the same amount of time. ALso, all the mechanics have told me my rotors are warped. Maybe they're all wrong but they do all agree.

How many parts are there to replace? No one aside from me (and I"m not going to do it because I don't know how and don't have time to learn or do it) is going to take the time to actually track down this problem. You can't even pay someone to figure stuff like this out in my experience. Beside the pads, rotors, and calipers what else is there?

brake fluid is 100k miles old. Had a full service at about 120k and now it's got 210ish on it. About to do a whole bunch of maintenance.

 

anyone wanna post a link for some ceramic pads and fancy rotors with a bunch of holes drilled in them....and some good calipers? Figure I'll buy the parts and get them installed. Isolate that variable.

 

my rotors always wear out before the pads do. Think it's supposed to be the other way around.

 

That isn't going to solve your problem. Cross drilled rotors tend to fail to cracks and as you said you drive gingerly so the heat dissipation is of no benefit.

Do not throw parts/money at this problem.

 

I just discovered a thread on here that one of you guys posted that educated me on brakes. Thank you.https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/brake-upgrade-stoptech-rotors-trd-performance-pads.523829/

@2015WhiteOR ok thanks. I'm gonna need new rotors and pads though right? Does all this shaking (I mean when I hit the breaks the truck feels like it's gonna shake to pieces) ruin the calipers and other parts?