2006 Tacoma 1GR-FE Engine Swap

Yes - I had already done it with the heads removed and had to do it again with them on … wasn’t sure but it was MUCH easier that second time mostly because I had done it.

1/4” 10mm socket - small and longer lengths. You’ll be doing it blind in a very tight spot, but I can confirm it can be done. From the top basically laying across the engine bay

 

Yes and it’s the biggest PITA to remove

 

why would you ever get that deep into the motor, with leaving it in the truck?

 

anthony250f’s I suspect is like me, only got some many hands and lack of lifts.

 

I don’t have a lift/hoist anymore and didn’t feel like pulling the transmission. I pulled my 3.4 out and the worst part in my opinion was the transmission lol

almost done with the head gasket swap. I replaced every seal and really took my time with it

 

Had a feeling this was to be the case. Seen it plenty of times on this forum. At least it is an easy fix.

Hopefully once you get these few extra hiccups sorted, this engine should be a good one for you.

 

A flex head ratchet, or ratchet wrench REALLY help with this part being removed.

 

I get it, making do; but I had the exhaust manifolds rot off of the heads on an '09, and pulled the motor, left the transmission in place. Was easy, in my opinion, and with the engine on a stand, I made a jig to hold the far ends of each manifold assembly, then cut out the factory cats, and welded them to new ebay mini headers, and new flanges. Worked perfect, the y-pipe bolted right up.

Most amazing part to me, was that the manifold studs were came out with pliers, or small chisel & Hammer. The studs were rusted off, or rusted to less than 1/8 in dia, but every one spun out of the head in just about one half hour of work. i was sure that would be a nightmare. No way I could have done that in the vehicle.

You have the luxury of California weather. (though not sure it's enough to make me ever want to live there)

Congrats on the quality of your work; gasket surfaces appear to be expertly cleaned. With that level of attention to the assembly, you are assured of a successful outcome; making up for the hindrance of working upside down and confined in the engine bay.

 

Thank you sir. Been a very slow and long process but making sure everything is done correct. Definitely nice not having to deal with rust. All my exhaust bolts came right off

 

Thanks for the help from everyone. I fixed both the oil and coolant leaks and got her running well now. I also experienced a bad ignition coil, replaced. Hopefully it'll stay that way for a long time!

 

Took a while, but you got it all back together.

I made a short video recently, of another problematic oil leaking area. Being that your used engine is fairly old, this may be of use to you.

https://rumble.com/v6u661b-1gr-fe-toyota-tacoma-timing-cover-leak-fix.html

 

Wish you posted this before I just put my timing cover on

mine was leaking from the same spot. My ps pump is covered in oil

 

I think the reason why these leak in that area is because the ps pump is slightly to big to fit in the mount. When I swapped my engine the first time, I couldn’t get the ps pump back into the mount that is between the front cover and block. Took some material off of the pump until it slid into place. Never have had an issue with the front cover leaking.

 

I used to think this as well. Early on. The nut on the block I believe, is pressed in. As you tighten the bolt, it pulls towards the pump body. Making for a very tight fit. I'll get a video of that and share. It just so happens to be in the same location as the uneven machined surfaces.

Without having pulled the timing cover and feeling by hand, one could easily overlook it.

 

Dang. Just a few days late. Sorry.

 

Here you can see the pressed-in nut. I use parallel pliers to press it back into the block, to give room for easy pump installation.

 

Good tip. I believe I will have to do the same with the alternator as it was extremely snug removing it.