2006 Tacoma A/C Rebuild

I'm starting to plan for a rebuild of my A/C. Was thinking of ordering the following parts from RockAuto;
- Evaporator (GPD # 4712020)
- A/C Refrigerant Hose (GPD # 481250 for high pressure side)
- A/C Refrigerant Hose (GPD # 4812312 for low pressure side)
- A/C Compressor & Components Kit (GPD # 9641957)

This kit comes with new compressor with clutch, expansion valve, o-rings, seals & gaskets kit, condenser and I believe dryer but I'm still waiting on RockAuto to confirm the dryer is included.

I know I would need oil and R134 refrigerant but since I'm in Canada apparently they won't ship those items across the border. So will get local instead.

Also since I'm in Canada I don't have a lot of other parts places I can order from that aren't crazy priced or ship to Canada that I know of. But would appreciate any suggestions.

So a few questions;

1. Am I missing any other parts that I should order?

2. Anyone have experience either good or bad using these parts from GPD?

3. Can anyone provide advise on doing a complete rebuild? I.E. Tips, procedures you've used, things to watch out for etc.

Oh, and since I'm sure I'll get some comments. I know about pre-evacuating the system and needing gauges and vacuum pump. Also the reason I was going to do a full rebuild is my compressor failed likely because of running out of refrigerant because of a leak I ignored for too long. So given it's an older truck I figured I may as well do the whole thing instead of fixing part or to have something else fail.

Thanks all

 

Since you seem to be going all out, what about the evaporator and a new thermistor?

 

Yup I got the evaporator on my list already but I'll look at adding the thermistor. Do you know where that is located on the truck?

 

Sorry, missed the evap in your list.

The thermistor goes on the face of the evap. It cycles the compressor when the face of the evap hits about 36* to prevent it from icing. Should be inexpensive, so while you are in there......

 

The dryer and condenser are all built together as a single assembly.

 

You left a leak alone for to long and now the AC doesn't work? Are you sure the compressor is junk? There's a pressure switch in the system piping that won't let the compressor run if the pressure gets to low.

Personally., I'd start with the expansion valve. There's a screen in one of the tubes. If that is full of crap them I'd go all out. If not, find the leak and fix it.

Lowes sells a craftsman uv flashlight. That make finding any leaks easier.

Crossing my fingers that you're evap coil is ok...

Good luck.

 

You should also replace the two valve cores. The new lines may not come with them. There cheap.

 

Thanks for tips guys. The original symptom was that the AC wasn't as cold it was at one time. I assumed I had a leak but didn't get around to looking into it. After a few months when the truck was turned on the light on the AC on/off button would begin flashing and no coolness from AC. At the same time you could hear and see the AC pully chattering. It chatters for a short time then stops for a minute or so and does it again, this keeps repeating as long as the truck is running. Now the chattering still happens but the AC light always stays off.

I assumed the compressor was seizing up due to a leak.

I will dig deeper but it's damn cold up here and I don't have heat in my garage so still trying to get motivated to start working on it

 

If your compressor locked up the system is likely contaminated with fine metal, if this is the case any line that your not replacing needs to be cleaned really good with A/C flush, modern condensers can't be flushed and must be replaced if there's metal contamination, drier I believe is in the condenser.
GPD compressors can be hit or miss on how long they last but that seems to be the case with any aftermarket compressor these days.
If you have a V6 depending on mileage it may be a good idea to replace the belt tensioner assembly while you have the compressor off as the compressor must be removed to replace it.