2006 Tacoma How bad is this rust on a scale of 1-10 **Pics**

I'm wondering if I "fix" this rust, assuming they do have a frame replacement in the future would I still qualify?

 

good point dante.

The rust is caked on there good, I'm thinking a wire brush may not do the trick and I may need to bust out the old angle grinder with a wire brush wheel.

I'm assuming sandblasting wont get this stuff off?

 

I'm not sure how much more caked on it is than mine, i used a wire wheel and got rid of any loose material i could. then used a rust converter, then a cleaner, then a paint over rubberized encapsulator by eastwood. I'm not real sure how effective sandblasting would be.

 

I tried the wire brush and paint, did not last. I used the grinder to get rid of the rust then paint. See if that will last longer.

 

what rust converter and cleaner?

how's it holding up?

 

This is pretty frustrating, not only do I have to worry about regular maint, oil changes, etc. but I also have to keep at the back of my mind whether or not the frame is going to disintegrate under the 55 layers of paint and rust encapsulation I've applied

 

Salting roads like crazy is one of my reasons to move out from New England along the high taxes and idiotic laws.
Until then, just clean it as well as you can and paint it with some industrial strength primer and paint. I did my frame couple years ago and so far its holding up pretty well. I still have some spots that need to be re-clean and repainted but I would say 80% of my frame looks great.

 

I tried using the Eastwood's rust encapsulator after prepping per their directions. After one year is came off in great big slabs, and the frame was still rusting underneath. This year I scrubbed the piss out of the frame with Simple Green, rinsed several times, let dry and sprayed with Eastwood's Heavy Duty Anti Rust spray. That, I imagine, is like Fluid Film. It appears to be a parafin wax diluted in solvents. Sprays on like paint, self healing, but I'm also imagining it will collect dust as it has a slightly sticky feel after drying.

My frame looks a lot better than yours, but it's approaching your level of crunchiness. Best you can hope for is retarding the rust, you'll never abate it.

 

Does that Eastwood HD stuff have to be re-applied every year? Fluid Film wears off and requires constant recoating.

 

One thing that does does look shitty are the adj. on the lower control arms used for alignments. I bet they are probably frozen, be mindful of this if you want/need to get a alignment done. When they get looking like that and don't move at all they can only be cut out. Meaning new cam bolts and hardware plus new lower control arms (if the old bolts still don't come out).

 

is it safe to use the heavy duty rubberized coating after I'm finished scraping and painting?

 

Its safe probably but after you scrape everything you have no primer on the metal. and Primer is what actualy protects the metal because contains all those rust inhibitors. Paint is to cover the primer and make a color, and rubberized compund is there to protect paint from rocks and impacts.
So After you clean you need to apply decent primer first before doing anything else.

 

i'd rate it a 7.5. the guy with the holes in the frame was a 10. he ended up getting a frame replacement.

for the vibration, check your u joints

 

Well, I just got a can out to answer your question. It appears that the recommended application is for internal surfaces.

Places like rocker panels, inside boxed frame or inside door skins. No matter, mine is on my frame now and it isn't going to come off just because of this.

I gave Boeshield a try about 4 years ago on my running board brackets. They were really crunchy, I wire brushed them, cleaned with Eastwood PRE, and used Eastwood rust encapsulator, then used a high solids frame paint from Eastwood. After a year, the paint and encapsulator came off in sheets because the rust continued to oxidize.

So I used Boeing's BoeShield, which is really pricey, but basically the less heavy duty version of Eastwood's HD anti rust.

It has held up ever since, although it has a slight haze of dust on it over the years. I doubt having the HD anti-rust will be detrimental, it has the same properties as Boeshield, only it (the HD) has an amber coloring vs. clear for Boeshield.

So to answer your question, no the HD doesn't have any instructional on reapplying it after a year, but then again it's meant for indirect water/moisture contact. I suppose I'll find out after this winter, I just put it on this spring/summer.

 

You cannot stop rust. Once it is there it is there for good. Sandblast, wire brush, wire wheel all you want but there will be places that are missed. Inside of the frame, around cutouts etc will always have traces and if there are traces then the rust will continue to spread/ grow.

You can certainly slow things down but you will never get rid of it completely without a acid dip prep but that involves a stripped down to the carcass frame.

I have a 94' Land Cruiser that spent time in Chicago and Boston ( according to carfax ) that looks much better than this Tacoma.

 

Seeing pictures like this always make me thankful I live in Arizona

 

small part of me is entertaining the idea of ditching it... the fact that it only slows the process down is whats bugging me. what if I want to keep the truck for another 10 years?

 

It wont last 10 years if you dont fix it.

 

It may not last 10 even if he does, unless he gets in there w/ a grinder every couple years.

 

x2. Thats why I went to dealer to make official complain before I started wire brushing frame. To have "rust" on record. OP you should do the same just so you are covered. Its not going to void warranty if you clean and paint but if there is recall on the frame they will tell you your frame looks great and will not replace frame. Having rust issue on the books already will let you complain.