2006 Tacoma wheel stud replacement

I'm in need of replacing a few of my wheel studs which happen to be on all 4 hubs, do to the tire shops error they won't own up to, for messing up. I'm just wondering if Its a easy process to just replace the studs which are inexpensive then replacing the whole hub assembly? I've replaced a few on my older yota but I figured since my truck is newer, Id kinda want to figure out what I'm gonna get myself into or if I should bite the bullet and replace the whole hub assemblies! Thanks!

 

Studs are easy to replace and haven't changed a bit.

It would be stupid to replace the entire hub assembly for a broken stud or two.

 

You tap them out from the threaded side. Look behind the stud before tapping to be sure it will come out completely without getting stuck on the brake cylinder/caliper or whatever. I usually buy some GOOD washers that will fit over the stud, put 2-3-4 of them on, well greased, and then use a lug nut to pull the stud back in. Make sure it is flush against the hub on the back, obviously, so it can't work in tighter and cause the nut to become loose. You need enough washers to at least cover the non-threaded part of the stud, so the lug nut can screw on deep enough to pull the stud all the way flush.

Doesn't take very long at all. Replaced many over the years. mainly for the same reason you have, very sloppy tire shops. I always use anti-seize as well, as they can gall and become almost impossible to tighten or loosen afterward.

 

Thank you man! Ill be spending tomorrow morning getting them!

 

Some simple advice.

1. use anti-seize when you initially install and seat them to avoid excessive strain and galling. You will have to pull and you will need a good 1/2" drive, preferably with an 18" breaker bar or equivalent.

2. You could buy a couple of junk lug nuts in the right thread size as this is a strain on them. Then keep them for seating lug nuts and you don't end up abusing the functional/decorative ones on your truck.

3. The ultimate would be a female thread chaser to clean the stud threads before installing the actual wheel (again apply anti-seize before final lug nut installation.

Once galling starts, it won't stop, and you don't want to replace one a second time.

If, at any time, before the lug nut seats on the washers, you notice excessive resistance, stop and back the nut off. Check the stud threads. If you see metal on them, you are galling and I would probably start over. New stud and new (trash) lug nut ought not have this problem, and you can always sanity-test by threading the nut on the stud before you try installing to verify it goes on easily all the way...