2007 sputtering and dying, help

wow that is weird. Id think there would be something kicking a code. Maybe start checking the sparkplugs.

 

Skimmed over your thread, but if the coils ohm out I would start by changing your plugs. Cylinder misfire code can often be fixed just by new plugs.

 

getting home late all week. I'll replace plugs and runs some spray carb cleaner this weekend. Should I consider an injector problem?

 

Crank position sensor, cam position sensor. From that video that could be his problem. You will need a good digital volt meter and pinout to check the crank or cam sensor.

 

looking into how to check Crank and Cam position sensor. this morn I started it, and it was generally as seen here in vid, even after spraying half a can of carb cleaner into air valve. when i step, step, step on gas to rev, it gets loud rattle. If so, it's the first vid on the page.

 

I have replaced spark plugs and swapped out battery which changed nothing. So starting seemed still, as though one cyl was not firing. I disconn coil packs until I discovered that dicsonnecting cyl 3 coil changed nothing. Therefore it has to do with cyle 3. So if it was coil pack on cyl 3, it should run missing the same if I put elsewhere. So I swapped 3 with 1. Ran missing still as predicted, but assumed it would be cyl 1 now missing. But unplugging coil pack on cyl 1 and would not even start. Meaning it was not coil pack, but something to do with cyl 3. Hoping it is not a dead compression on cyl 3, but instead something electrical. As I've said, I have swapped out relays to no avail. Any other ideas besides an actual mechanical cylinder problem?

 

Pressure test on Cyl 3? You can "borrow" a tester at Advanced Auto.

 

Regrettably, Advanced Auto doesn’t rent those

 

Bummer.

 

They will sell you one, though

 

Did you swap the spark plug wire?

 

rnish, tomorrow I'm going to try to fab one from some parts in my shed. otherwise I'll be going to town to do just that. think they'll let me wander off with it for a couple of hours? also, if it is cyl pressure problem on a 80k mile engine, any ideas as to problem?

 

rnish. it is a harness, but if I could pull them to reach a different coil pack, that would be very revealing. thanks.

 

it's a nice day today. I compression checked (bought a $30 tester at AutoZone) each cyl. test results. cyl 1 110, Cyl 2 105 cyl 3 105 cly 4 95. I then took a welding rod and put a spark plug box on the ear end and touched it to each injector. all 4 injectors seem to have a decent same rhythm. however, cyl 3 is a slightly quieter and lower tone. less of a tick sound.

 

I had the pleasure of removing the fuel train. In pulling out one of the fuel injectors, it seems is barely on. It came off in the cyl. I'm told it helps seat the injector. I have ordered a new injector, and when that comes in Iwill try to vacuum out the ring. All I could say when I discovered this is "why would they make it like that?"

 

my education continues. I installed a fuel injector (btw rockauto offers 2 business day shipping, but it took 4 days. 2 day shipping they say only starts from when it leaves the warehouse. deceptive) I had zero change to how it ran. Speaking with an ex-GM engineer, he had me checking short term trim values which came in at -6.8 - -7.0, then O2 millivolt readings at 2k rpm. These were in the 0.01-0.07 range. He says my millivolts should have been 0.1 to 0.9. And not in the 0.01-0.07 range. And that it should not vary more than 0.2 at all. He believes my car has gone into "lip mode" where it is forced to run logically lean as a result of the "upstream" o2 sensor on the exhaust going out or having a rodent eating the wire. I'll get it tomorrow and install soonest.

 

Yes, and thanks to so many like those here who are willing to help, I'll get it done, and get an education. I truly hope people will be able to skim this and solve their problems readily.

 

Solved. I had it towed to a local guy. Aside from me damaging o-rings on injectors that needed to be replaced, the original problem amounted to the wiring harness having a faulty ground at the on-board computer, which was behind the glove box. A corrosion had built up and suddenly created the fault, and it simply needed to be cleaned and no-ox added. Hard lessons to learn.

 

Was not solved. Having driven home the truck seemed ok, but sounded just a little rough. Having driven another car for a while, I though I might just be hearing the engine anew. But when I took off the next day, after letting her warm up, she died on the road very quickly. Took it back to the mech who then diagnosed a bad crank shaft sensor. After a dozen miles or so, I believe I can say she works well again.