2007 TRD rust bucket!

The parts you’re pointing at are the AC drain (pinky) and coolant block drain (index; there’s another one on the driver side). Most people never use them but if you want to do a complete coolant flush (and not just the radiator), that’s how you get the rest of the coolant out

 

AC drain line yes, most people extend it sop it doesnt drip onto the frame, the other engine thingie, Ill have to look tomorrow. Also, looks like your seal retaining spring is shot, helps hold the "cup" shape of your seal, but yours looks elongated...

 

Umm, my replaced frame has more rust than what you're calling "so much rust" ..

 

I'm from Washington where salt is rarely used, so you see 30-50 year old cars with no rust on them... this is just a shock for me.

 

Sell the truck if it's such a shocker. That truck is pretty clean if you ask me. You have yet to share a photo of anything significant.

Metal on all vehicles rust and I doubt you've been under every truck in your area.

 

I've fixed the worst of it, but chunks of the undercoat popped off to reveal badly rusted frame which I had to grind down and wire wheel. I've applied truck bed liner and will shoot a film coat inside the frame.

 

Hoping I can get things put together tomorrow. Still need to clean and rebuild brake calipers but I rebuilt the axles today.

 

Welp ... went to rebuild the brakes and the pistons are rotten somehow. Luckily RockAuto has them cheap!

 

Jeez, guy.
You've got the fire under your ass.

 

need my truck to do my job!

 

Most parts installed. Repainting and rebuilding knuckles and brakes. The little junction on the frame was totally rotten. Going stainless steel.

I did the sway bar relocation because two of the nuts broke off inside the frame... and I probably needed it anyway. Luckily Toyota put access holes right where the broken nuts were!

Make fun of my spacer lift but it came this way!

 

Rebuilding the brakes with new pistons and all new stainless lines but my flaring tool broke. Turns out stainless is hard!

Also I finally found a way to get the brake caliper off of the other spindle.

 

also before someone recommends it, yes, the "modern" flaring tools are better, I have one on the way from Amazon.

 

Mine rotted on the passenger outside right at the door badge, had a 1x2 hole as well as the underside near the back of the door had a 13mm hole.

 

luckily I'm OK at welding so I can always fix actual holes in the frame. the biggest rot right now is in the back section under the bed, the "open" style rails are de-laminating.

 

went with stoptech/powerstop for the front brakes. refurbed my original calipers. huge pain in the butt with all the rust and grime buildup. used a combo of oven cleaner and naval jelly and a lot of wire brushing.

got everything back together around 11pm.

can someone clarify for me: if I want to top off my front diff (to replace the fluid lost when I pulled the axles) GL-5 is fine, right? I only need to worry about GL-4 in the transmission (and LSD additive in the rear diff) correct? I picked up 1qt of the cheap Walmart "Ultra1Plus"

$29 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90 full synthetic GL-5 but if I do a full powertrain fluid swap, what should I use?

I read what I could find and it seems to be a lot of opinions but the gist I gathered is:

front diff: 75W-90 GL-5 @ 2qt
rear diff: 75W-90 GL-5 w/ additives for LSD @ 3qt
xfer case: 75W-90 GL-5
transmission: 75W-90 GL-4 (MT90 recommended)

is this accurate?

 

Good work. Your 07 Tacoma looks about like my 2013 4Runner. It sucks more people don't bother coating these frames when they're new to prevent this nonsense.

What sway bar links are those?

 

Your dif fluid earlier in the thread looked a little funky to me. I'd drain and replace it all.

 

This is the worst spot in that section. I can fix it.

 

"Mevotech TTX" from RockAuto, I chose the highest quality part available which was these