2008 Tacoma suddenly won't turn over, won't start

If you are a 1 man show like me.
You can fab up some extensions and set the meter on the windshield while you crank.

Or if you have a decent meter you can trust. Use the min/max feature.
I haven’t used this method yet.
As I just got a decent meter. And thankfully, I haven’t needed that feature yet.

 

I like to use the remote controlled cheapo outlets as a hands free switch, you can get them at HF for cheap.

 

You can get a relay tester pretty cheap like this one

RTFMUCA Relay Tester Automotive Kit, 12V Car Battery Tester Car Diagnostic Battery Checker Tool, Code Readers and Scan Tools

https://www.amazon.com/RTFMUCA-Rela...ords=relay+tester&qid=1651320731&sr=8-1-spons

Or you can get better ones like the Lisle ones

$66 Lisle 56810 Relay Test Jumper Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56810-...words=relay+tester&qid=1651320660&sr=8-6&th=1

$61 Lisle 60610 Relay Test Jumper Kit II

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56810-...words=relay+tester&qid=1651320660&sr=8-6&th=1

I like the Lisle ones because it lets you check the relay in circuit without having to rig some kind of connection between the relay and box.

 

Never even though of that.
Like I say, every thing I know about electrical I learned here in TW.

Thanks for the tip. I will look into that.


I know what they are, I had to put them on the lamps for my grandfather. He has arthritis and can’t turn the roll switches on his lamps. Those little remote things worked great.

 

Checked the ground. That was solid. I have continuity between pin 2 and battery ground on STA relay but no volts between pin 5 and ground when cranking.

I also checked the EFI relay (#13) and it's fine (just put it in the horn relay slot and texted the horn). I even bought another ignition switch in the off chance the one I got yesterday was bad. No change. Any other suggestions before I jumper it and drive it to a mechanic?

 

Have you checked your AM2 fuse ?
What about at the ignition switch pin 5 White/Red ( power from AM2) and pin 7 Green/ Black (power to pin 5 of the STA relay when the switch is in the crank position)?

 

Checked AM2 fuse and it's good. How do I check the ignition switch? Pull the connector but leave the switch in the ignition and try to put a probe on those pins while cranking the key? That's tough to access while it's still in the ignition (I don't have any alligator clips ... yet)

 

You can check power in to the ignition switch on pin 5 White/Red with it unplugged but you will need to plugged in and backprobed to check for power out on pin 7 Green/Black.
A needle or small paperclip would work for a makeshift backprobe.

 

Go to Wal-Mart and buy these
They work good for back probing.

 

This would be least likely...

Just for shits n giggles, I would suggest to try using the other key if you have one. Every once in a while the transponder code in the key doesn't match what's stored in the Engine Immobilizer Module thingy. Normally you'll have a crank/no start, but I guess there can be a no crank. Have you checked for stored DTC's? In this situation there will be a DTC stored in memory without an illuminated MIL. The DTC if it's there would be B2799 Engine Immobilizer System.

 

Successfully jumpered it and took it in. Couldn't afford to spend anymore time on it. Thanks everyone for your help!

 

Right on!

Since you mentioned that the battery is holding 12+ volts this would suggest that you have a starting battery that's not putting out enough cranking amps (power). Have the battery tested and replace if necessary

edit: nevermind the battery test if you jumped from the starter as recommended earlier.

 

The immobilizer on 2nd gens will not cause a no-crank, only a crank-no start. You can unplug the ECM completely and the truck would still crank, it just wouldn't start.

 

It would seem as though applying another 12V source got a start your existing battery is toast

 

Final update on this, FWIW. Apparently there was an after-market remote starter installed on this truck by a previous owner. I had no idea; all wired under the dash; dealer never mentioned it (they probably didn't even know it was installed either). It failed and shorted the connection to the starter. With that removed it starts and works fine. NEVER would have considered that! But at least I learned a lot through all this (including how to use a jumper wire to start a vehicle!). Thanks again, everyone, for the quick replies and suggestions.