2008 Tundra 1GRFE V6 Engine Dead at 98k

Little but any chance you can pm me Tacoma firmware copy I want to see whats in it

 

Not likely to work out well.
Your cluster is specific to the Tundra, and the Tacoma still has an ACV system, it's just different from the Tundra.

Also, from everything I've seen on our clone cables, you don't want to try to reflash with them.

 

Update, if anyone is still interested.

Didn't have any time yet to have the exhaust manifold modified, but drive the truck every single day..

I don't know if its me or the truck is actually getting more mpg than before.

Apart from that I can't see any difference, everything looks perfect except for the CEL.

 

Last I read up on 5.7L Tundra air injection valves sticking, a workaround one guy was messing with that seemed to work was splitting the starter signal to a relay that bypassed the IAT sensor to to a fixed resistor that gave a false temp reading lower than freezing only while the truck was cranking over, causing the ECU to skip the air injection cycle and thus his truck was driveable and not in limp mode until he had the $4000 to get the system replaced.

Would that work on the 1GR? If it's never expecting excess o2 in the exhaust, the CEL won't happen. Of course you won't pass emissions though.

There was a writeup somewhere on tundrasolutions I believe.

 

I see you said you got your oil changed at the dealership.

What oil did they use? I thought the modern oil of today is suppose to clean up the gunk and stuff.

 

It's obvious that either his dealer, or the previous owner, was not doing proper oil changes.

 

I find it hard to believe a Toyota dealership scammed him out of oil for almost 50K miles. I see he said he gets his oil changed/serviced at the dealer.

Now my question is what oil do they use? It's always on the invoice after you pay. I always assumed all Toyota dealership uses the same oil, but apparently they don't.

One I use to go to all the time used Quaker. The other I went to 1 time, I can't remember, but it was different. I moved, so I went to another dealership and they used Shell.

I'm trying to see if there's a brand to stay away from. I've heard of people getting sludge with the older Pennzoils.


But anyways, lets assume the previous owner never changed the oil. Like I said, I thought modern oil is suppose to clean and reduce the sludge in engines. No?

 

It happens.
We've had more than one member mark their oil filter, to find that it was not changed.

Oil is going to be regionally supplied bulk... likely by the lowest bidder to each region. "Premium" oils like Valvoline, Castrol, and various synthetics may be available at extra charge.

Also, obviously, not all Toyota dealerships use Toyota filters... the one installed on the OP's engine is a Champion.

I've been hearing that off and on since the late 70s.
The story went that Pennzoil and Quaker State were paraffin-based oils and caused sludging. A more credible version was that the Pennsylvania crude oils had a higher paraffin content.

But neither is that believable, given that the paraffin hydrocarbons are refined out. More likely it's because Joe Homeowner changed his oil every 10k and used Pennzoil simply because it was one of the more popular oils, so problems were blamed on the oil and not the owner.

To a degree.... and that indeed may have been part of the problem.
Extremely heavy sludging? No... that's going to have to be dug and brushed out. Staining and the beginnings of sludge? Ya, a good quality oil will tend to clean that.

The problem is that if the engine is heavily sludged, larger pieces can break free. Pieces small enough to pass through the pickup screen will get lodged in the filter, the filter will plug, then it goes into bypass, and you now have unfiltered oil running into the engine. Good recipe for plugging the oil galleys and starving bearings.

 

Just read every post in this thread. Glad to see it worked out, but it still sucks you had to go through all that with no compensation.
gonna go mark my oil filters now...

 

are you sure thats not the valves in your video?

 

Thanks to the OP for sticking with this thread Sludge is one of those things that people don't think about. I had an opportunity to look inside a 3.4 V6 this summer with 100K. Supposedly it had regular oil changes, although I can't verify that. The inside of that motor was just shocking. There was so much sludge in that engine that it was hard to believe it was still running. The vehicle lived at the Oregon coast where winters basically last 8-9 months and it's damp all the time. Short drives in that kind of climate I believe put an engine at a lot more risk. It's not just the oil you use or the frequency of the changes. At this point it's pretty easy for me to see how an engine could be taken down in 100K.

From what I have seen over many years is the oil really does not clean anything. Oil manufacturers like to claim that, but I have seen no proof of it in the engines I've built. and monitored over time. I do think synthetics deposit less in the first place, which is reason enough to use them.

 

I wonder if it's worth the risk to dump seafoam into the oil....

 

No risk... It is oil and used according to the directions it is perfectly safe.

But... It should not be needed.

Badger's example is a perfect example of why frequent short trips are death to an engine.
The impact is amplified in cold and humid climates where the engine heat promotes condensation, and the engine is not regularly brought up to full operating temperature and maintained there for an hour or more.

The result is a toxic mixture of water and acids produced by combustion gases, which quickly erodes bearings and promotes sludge.

I cringe when I read of someone only driving 5 miles to work/school.
Save your engine and buy a bicycle or electric scooter!

 

I have a 1.1 mile commute....... LOL


I drove an Honda Accord for a little over 5 years with no engine problems. But I only put on like 35K miles during that time span. When I traded it in, I think it was at about 90K miles. Engine felt fine, but I know the transmission was starting to slip.

Anyways, been driving the Tacoma for a little over 3 years now with my short commute, near Seattle, WA.

Maybe I am a good candidate for the Seafoam treatment. I am due for an oil change next month.

 

Just get it out on the highway for 50 miles a a couple of times a week.

 

I would literally get rid of cars if I had a 1.1 mile commute. Live longer from the exercise, save tons of money and retire earlier...

 

x2 or get this
No insurance, no registration. 100 MPG+ and tons of fun to ride

 

This has been one interesting thread and i'm glad the OP got things figured out on another note in the first part of the thread some of you and by some meaning if the shoe fits wear it were comple dickheads to this poor dude and all of it was speculation if anything everyone should have been doing everything in there power to help him with this problem like I said if the shoe fits wear it as for all the guys helping that was awesome keep it up as for the dickheads your losers period.

 

so im being kind of lazy right now and dont want to read the thread (also at work right now) but when i got in my truck for lunch today i was just sitting there for a min and i started to hear this same sound from the video. not as loud but it wasn't subtle either. i put it into gear and i couldn't tell if it was still there or not... truck has almost 17K on it regular oil changes, most days i drive it the distances are about 10 -20 miles one way. thoughts?